flooring input

[woodmills1]

kathy and I are remodeling one of our upstairs additions to make a master bedroom.  We plan on TandG oak for the floor.  Here is a shot of what is up there now.  It is soft wood pine or fir with the large gaps shown.  My question is, put down tar paper and then the flooring or do I need to put a layer of plywood first.  the existing is pretty level, and I would renail it first, and make sure my flooring nails were at and reached the joists.  the oak will run in the same direction as the existing.

[SwampDonkey]

The red oak floors they put in here are put down without subfloor, just nailed onto the old spruce boards. But, I'm no flooring expert. Lets see what some other folks say.I'm pretty sure it was done the same at my uncle's place as he was putting in oak floors the same time as mom and dad. Had to keep up ya know. ;) :D His upstairs floors looks just like yours, except he tore up all the oil cloth and just painted the spruce boards brown. He says he likes them old boards a lot better. :D

[woodmills1]

oil cloth, we used linoleaum here lol

[beenthere]

Pretty much depends on how springy you want the floor to be when you walk on it. Normal to put down a subfloor first, then the hardwood 25/32 flooring. Takes the spring out when you walk on it.

Is the pic the flooring, or of wall paneling?

[SwampDonkey]

oil cloth, we used linoleaum here lol

Your more modern.  ;D :D

There's no spring in these floors, but can't say there isn't a squeak here and there. Maybe a spring to my step, is all.  ;D

[backwoods sawyer]

Running two layers the same direction is asking for a floor to roll. If the boards were crossing the one that are down it should be fine but having gaps running the length of the boards will allow them to cup. A ¼" sheeting would help with this.

[pineywoods]

re - oak flooring..Just finished putting oak t&g flooring down in an old mobile home, plywood floor. I used tar paper as a vapor barrier. So far it has not shrunk or bowed. Some things I would recommend

Beg, borrow, or steal a flooring nailer
Beg, borrow or steal a commercial floor sander
Keep board lengths under 4 feet
a biscuit joint in the ends helps
If you are making your own flooring, avoid using boards cut from the butt flare of a log
I quarter sawed mine, grain not as nice, but no splinters.
Floor boards need to be as dry as possible, then store in the same room where they will be installed for a week or so before installing.

[Don_Papenburg]

If you wish the flooring to run the same direction as the preasant flooring you need an underlayment .
However you could run them on a slight angle or 45 degree  without a underlay.
I would use screws to secure any underlay and the subfloor.   Do use PL Premium to stick down the underlayment also . Use at least four beads acroos the sheet  then screw it down

[woodmills1]

as I look at the picture it does look like a wall, here is a shot rotated 90 degrees

[Brad_bb]

My old farmhouse narrow board oak floors were laid on a subfloor of 4 or so inch wide fir boards that run 45 degrees to the joists(allowing the oak floor boards to run parallel to the rooms.  There are creaks in various areas(hallway especially).  I think the creaks come from the oak boards rubbing against each other as they flex.  They obviously are allowed to flex by uneven spaces under the floor or flexing of the fir subfloor.  So the trick would seem to be to eliminate the flexing?  I'm no flooring expert, I'm just asking the question.  It doesn't both me, but when I build my new house, I'd like to do what I can to eliminate creaking and make it solid.

[beenthere]

The flooring should run across the joists, with or without the sub-floor.

Try to run a drum sander on a floor where the flooring boards run parallel to the joists (with 45 deg sub-floor boards) and the high spots are on the joists with low spots between. Most of the sanding is then done with the edger to get at the low spots, and that is a ton of extra work.....I know 

[Don_Papenburg]

Brad , If you want to eliminate sqeeks and creeks  you have to eliminate movement.    2x12 s  on 12" centers  screw down and use PL Premium to glue down the sheating   T&G  sheating that is .  Then strap the bottoms of the joists at least every four foot  to eliminate side flex  or tilting .  If a joist tilts a little it also drops down just a bit .   Ideal would be to glue and screw sheating solid on the bottom of the joist also making the whole floor into one big torsion box.  Truss joist would be a good alternative .