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Anyone want to talk about Belsaw Mills

Started by jimparamedic, March 20, 2019, 08:20:48 AM

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jimparamedic

Now own 3 only one set up for now



Hope to add more photos very some



moodnacreek


jimparamedic


moodnacreek

Some times that's better than a blower. I always say this to bellsaw owners; somebody should design a set works for it that works better and especially holds back. If you can get your hand on a real sawmill set works you will agree.

jimparamedic

I fully agree I also have an American mill and it handles the large logs much better. I wanted a mill I could move and the belsaw fit that bill. I've sawed some pretty large logs on my belsaw. And a chain drag robs less power then a blower. that's why I like them.



jimparamedic


moodnacreek

I  always thought about putting a bellsaw on steel box beams for skids and dragging it into red cedar stands. I don't like wheels on a sawmill unless you can knock them off. Used to be a few No. 1 Americans around here. I have some nice literature on them.

jimparamedic

I have an old catalog for the American Company a reprint. Most of the mills in this area are made with parts from different mills. I will probably get a band mill someday if the price is right to resaw with. I just really like my circular mills. also would like to build a sash mill some day

moodnacreek

Can't believe you said that. I too wanted to build a sash mill, actually an up and down sawmill for oversize logs. My idea was to have a saw blade made with inserted teeth. That's because those monster logs will have metal.  I presume your big sawmill is a No. 1 with belt feed.  One of my sawmill mentors ran one with friction feed, a real old one. This American had been converted to log beam style carriage.

Trapper John

The Belsaw is the only circle mill I have seen where you don't have to walk around an engine and husk to off bear.  Truly a one man mill.  Probably its only redeeming feature other than price.  My Belsaw track is oval and in 10 foot sections but the ends do not match up very good because the ends are slightly lower than the rest of the section.  It results in a rather bumpy ride for the carriage.  I was thinking of welding the sections together and carefully grinding the welds smooth for a smoother ride.  Anything wrong with this idea?

bandmiller2

Trapper, can you shim the ends of your track, any unevenness is like poison to a circular mill. Belsaw carriages are very flexible and will follow any anomalies in the track and that causes the saw to rub and heat. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Don P

You really can't shim them straight. The 10' sections of pressed 3/16" C channel are not particularly straight and then the double angle track is welded to them so the track has a slight camber from end to end every 10'. I didn't weld my joints just shimmed the ends in line and bolted angle across the joint and have meant to replace the track with heavier 20' sections of C channel or rectangular tube. The main offender is of course where you are loading and turning.

Trapper John

My problem is that the track sections are miss manufactured at the ends, I should have cut off a quarter inch at each end when I first installed.  What effect will temperature changes have on a 46 foot piece of solid track.  Ever hear a metal roof when the sun hits it?  But I suppose the steel frame that the track is bolted to is also expanding and contracting at the same time.

Cutting Edge

Quote from: Trapper John on March 22, 2019, 01:07:18 AM

The Belsaw is the only circle mill I have seen where you don't have to walk around an engine and husk to off bear.


Dixon and Utilizer circle mills also had an in-board "husk".
"Winning an argument isn't everything, as long as you are heard and understood" - W.S.


Cutting Edge Saw Service, LLC -
- Sharpening Services
- Portable/Custom Milling and Slabbing
- On-Site Sawmill Maintenance/Repair Services

Factory Direct Kasco WoodMaxx Blades
Ph- (304) 878-3343

jimparamedic

Hey Cutting Edge reslly injoyed or conversation today snd thanks for the info on band blades

jimparamedic

Trapper John weld them up and grind smoorh can always cut them apart later if needed

Trapper John

Quote from: jimparamedic on March 20, 2019, 01:03:50 PM
Quote from: moodnacreek on March 20, 2019, 09:34:20 PM
Some times that's better than a blower. I always say this to bellsaw owners; somebody should design a set works for it that works better and especially holds back. If you can get your hand on a real sawmill set works you will agree.



A few questions.  There is some play in my carriage wheels (the guide track) and I assume in every Belsaw.  Are you guys shimming your guide wheels to remove this play or not worrying about it?  I have a chance to buy an American #l pretty reasonable and I was wondering if I could adapt the carriage to my Belsaw.  I need to know the width of the American carriage and if it will simply drop onto my 39" Belsaw frame.  I realize the larger American trucks will decrease the cutting height of my saw but will this give me problems?

Babylon519

Quote from: Trapper John on March 29, 2019, 03:51:47 PMAre you guys shimming your guide wheels to remove this play or not worrying about it?

The wheels on my sled were worn and sloppy. I took them to a machinist who made bushings and new pins for them. My tracks are not in perfect alignment, but I didn't consider how that could be heating my blade as Bandmiller is saying. Heating the blade does happen - now I'll look a little more careful at the tracks and gaps. Thanks for mentioning that!
I'm in the process of redesigning my sled. It's the 60" carriage with labour intensive dawgs, and it's wearing me out readjusting it with almost every pass. I'd like to add 30" sections to the back and front of the sled for better supporting long logs, and I'm trying to figure out some hydraulics for these setworks. I will probably resist the urge to add a log turner in the mix!
JimParamedic, what kind of power are you using to running your saws?
-   Jason

 
Jason
1960 IH B-275 - same vintage as me!
1960 Circle Sawmill 42"
Stihl MS440 & a half-dozen other saws...

moodnacreek

The biggest problem with bell saw dogs, [the late model ones] is that they drive the spike too far. When well adjusted the user must use both hands and hold the dog up some while pushing the lever down. Some of the ever ready dogs on old mills are just as bad but may hold on their weight alone. When I had a new bell saw the carriage rollers had side play but [the carriage] would travel the same path every time. The feed was never any good but I reworked it.

Cutting Edge


I always thought the dogs on a Utilzer mill could easily be copied and used on the Belsaws.

Hard to describe how they work, but each headblock had Gear Rack running vertical, bolted to the side and the dog assembly had a portion of the gear captive inside.  Basically a scaled down DeLoach style headblock, except DeLoach was all cast iron.

Would take a little butt scratching to get the dog assembly fabbed and functional, but parts are easily obtainable.  But the 12 pitch Gear Rack and gears would set you back $400+. 

But to have functional dogs on a Belsaw... Priceless  ;)


"Winning an argument isn't everything, as long as you are heard and understood" - W.S.


Cutting Edge Saw Service, LLC -
- Sharpening Services
- Portable/Custom Milling and Slabbing
- On-Site Sawmill Maintenance/Repair Services

Factory Direct Kasco WoodMaxx Blades
Ph- (304) 878-3343

jimparamedic

I am using an old 14hp engine I am also only cutting with 24 teeth Ill try and find a pic of my power unit.

jimparamedic




My dogs have a long and a short spike works good. but have been thinking about making some kind of slide hammer to set and remove the dogs

jimparamedic

Babylon519  was looking at your photos and seen your planer looks a lot like mine 
    


jimparamedic

Also in this pic is the 14hp motor I am now using to run my belsaw

Trapper John

Babylon, I have had saw heating but it was caused by loss of rpm in the cut.  By the way I have found shims (5/8" ID X 1" OD) on Amazon.  Let us know if you try shims and if that solves your heating issue but I would check track alignment first.  For setting and releasing my dogs I use a machinists hammer. 

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