This is a saw mill I have been building over last couple months. I would like to see what you guys think and if you have any good or bad point on the mill. I still need to attach the motor and add some blade/wheel guards.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/Sawmill_Build_281929.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/Sawmill_Build_28329.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/Sawmill_Build_28729.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/Sawmill_Build_28929.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/Sawmill_Build_28829.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/Sawmill_Build_281029.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/Sawmill_Build_281129.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/Sawmill_Build_281329.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/Sawmill_Build_281229.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/Sawmill_Build_281529.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/Sawmill_Build_281429.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/Sawmill_Build_281629.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/Sawmill_Build_281729.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/Sawmill_Build_28529.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/Sawmill_Build_28129.jpg)
Hello Jimmysmill13, and Welcome to the Forestry Forum. Adding your location to your profile will help with questions.
Pictures must be loaded into your gallery and posted to your reply from there. Review the Picture Posting thread at the bottom of the home page.
I'm sure everyone would love to see pictures of your build.
I just this year made one my self.
So ask any questions.
The pictures look great.
A couple of questions:
* What band speed are you planning?
* How fast will the guide bearings be spinning?
Quote from: Den-Den on December 16, 2015, 07:15:14 PM
The pictures look great.
A couple of questions:
* What band speed are you planning?
* How fast will the guide bearings be spinning?
I am look at around 4000 to 5000fpm, I will have a 13hp engine.
I am not sure what the speed will be on the bearings at this point.
That is the way to do it. 8)
My question is also about the blade guides. Maybe it is the picture angle, but be sure to give the blade teeth plenty of room in front of the guide rollers. You want to avoid any chance of the teeth contacting the rollers and removing set.
Congrats on the pictures. :)
Quote from: Magicman on December 16, 2015, 07:43:56 PM
That is the way to do it. 8)
My question is also about the blade guides. Maybe it is the picture angle, but be sure to give the blade teeth plenty of room in front of the guide rollers. You want to avoid any chance of the teeth contacting the rollers and removing set.
Congrats on the pictures. :)
Thanks Magicman, I see what you are saying about the blade guides, and I will have to make some adjustments and allow more space for the blade teeth.
Looks like your well on your way, the thing i will critic is the base where the track wheels are needs to be longer, motor weight ,wheel covers, and other weight, with the saw up high cutting a log it will probly be top heavy front to back. other than that it looks like a very good start.
Quote from: dustyhat on December 16, 2015, 09:31:57 PM
Looks like your well on your way, the thing i will critic is the base where the track wheels are needs to be longer, motor weight ,wheel covers, and other weight, with the saw up high cutting a log it will probly be top heavy front to back. other than that it looks like a very good start.
Thanks Dustyhat, I agree and I may end up having to adjust this. I have put close to 200lbs on the motor mount at it's highest point and believe it or not it's very stable. The reason for the shorter stance was to maximize the sawmill base as its only 13' long. If you take notice to the side wheels on the base rails this also was added to help control any instability witch has worked out nicely.
There was a guy on here that was having trouble with sawdust clogging up his acme thread, and causing it to bind up. cant remember what he did , but maby he build some kind of brushes to keep them cleaned out. you might want to think about that :)
Sawmill build is looking good. Welcome to the forum.
Jimmy,
You nailed the picture posting thing 8) Really nice, clear pictures. Having just completed my build, I see some things that may need attention:
Awesome track! Your track looks like it is flat on top - you will need a scraper/brush to keep the sawdust from building up and causing you trouble.
You have a really nice T-handle that looks like you will be using it for your blade tension - NICE. However, it is also on the side where you have the motor/drive belt. You will want your drive belt to remain constant tension. Maybe you will address this with a spring-loaded idler pulley? Or, swap out the bolt you have on the idle side for a T-handle as well.
I made my own blade guides like yours. The minute I added water-lube, the bearings ceased up. I'm guessing water brought sawdust into them. I ended up buying Cook's guides and they work great.
On your vertical guides, did you put some wear plates/Teflon in there? Would probably help it move smoothly.
Do your guide bars stay in alignment with the blade (more important vertically, not so critical front to back)? You want to be able to consistently cut square but if one side of the blade leads the other, that doesn't matter so much. On your blade guide bars, you have hex bolts - consider either welding on a T handle or replace with handles you can work without tools like this:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_blade_guide_drive_side_2.jpg) You want to keep the guides up to the wood and being able to do it without tool is much nicer.
As far as keeping your ACME threads free of sawdust, I would slip some PVC pipe over it. Make the pieces just long enough that they fit when all the way up or down. Hang the bottom one from the ACME nut. The top one will just rest on the nut. Hopefully, that will cover all the thread you will be actually using.
Keep in mind that you are going to want to operate your mill from the idle wheel side so you are not getting covered in sawdust! Did you have to flip your blade (turn it inside out)? Your rotation is opposite from most mills I've seen.
Welcome to the forum Jimmysmill13!
I won't repeat what's been said. What I will say is, nice job. I like the way that you have your pillow blocks spread out. I got mine too close together, and have to replace shafts way more often than I'd like. I would recommend putting some split locking collars on the shafts to keep them from being able to move.
The only other concern I have would be for the carriage wheels. It looks to me like you used idler pulleys. I don't think they will hold up long. But I've been wrong before. ;)
Quote from: Jimmysmill13 on December 16, 2015, 07:29:12 PM
Quote from: Den-Den on December 16, 2015, 07:15:14 PM
The pictures look great.
A couple of questions:
* What band speed are you planning?
* How fast will the guide bearings be spinning?
I am look at around 4000 to 5000fpm, I will have a 13hp engine.
I am not sure what the speed will be on the bearings at this point.
If the OD of the bearings is 1 1/2", and your blade is traveling at 5000 sfpm, your guides will be spinning at about 12,732 rpm. That's pretty dog gone quick.
Wow... Looking good.
I also think that you will need a spring-loaded idler pulley on your belts.
When sawing the belts will warm up and start to slip. I use a back idler
on my setup spring loaded and it really made a difference.
I also used Cooks bamdsaw guide wheels and they work great.
I also use the 13hp engine. Don't put to much set in your blades and
you will be good with that HP. I bet that like me you will be making a
bolt on extension soon.
Jimmy, welcome to The Forestry Forum.
Great looking build so far. I will agree with ljohnsaw on your blade tensioner, but it wouldn't be a big deal to use the other wheel for your drive wheel and flip your blade inside out, from the looks of things.
Just a random question, did you already flip the blade inside out to make it saw the direction you are showing in the pics? I ask because both mills I've had they come to me with the teeth going the opposite of what you show. I don't know if it matters a bit, just curious.
Your mill looks nice and very rugged with many well-thought-out things on it. Takes longer than you think, huh? :)
The only thing that stands out to my eyes is your driven shaft, not the idle shaft. The pulley to be driven by the engine is quite a ways away from the pillow block bearing. I'm afraid you're going to have shaft breakage problems. I'm thinking somehow the space between the pulley and the outboard pillow block needs to be smaller. I would also recommend using red locktite on all the pillow block bearings. Smear it all over the shaft and the set screws. This will keep them from constantly loosening up. This is for use with the cheap Chinese bearings. The expensive US bearings probably won't have this problem. Use heat to get the loctite to let loose for repairs if needed. The guide bearings you're using are used by many mills. They wear out pretty fast but are cheap and easy to replace as well. Keep some gear oil in/on the ball bearings inside and they'll last a good long while. Gear oil is a high pressure, high shear load oil with lots of sulfur in it (hence the smell) that uses that sulfur and a sacrificial wear surface that gets replenished using more oil on the next revolution (in an oil bath gearbox). If you have any more questions, this is the best place to get them! I'm not aware of any other place on the internet with a collection of so many smart, capable men from so many walks of life. Collectively, we can do anything.
Nice looking homemade mill, buddy. You have really nailed alot of the common problems with homemade jobbers.
Quote from: justallan1 on December 17, 2015, 09:25:26 AM
Jimmy, welcome to The Forestry Forum.
Great looking build so far. I will agree with ljohnsaw on your blade tensioner, but it wouldn't be a big deal to use the other wheel for your drive wheel and flip your blade inside out, from the looks of things.
Just a random question, did you already flip the blade inside out to make it saw the direction you are showing in the pics? I ask because both mills I've had they come to me with the teeth going the opposite of what you show. I don't know if it matters a bit, just curious.
It doesn't matter which way you run your blade (as long as the teeth are cutting ;)). The important thing is that the drive wheel is PULLING the blade through the wood, not pushing it! What you have should work just fine. Your wood will just be left-handed :D
Quote from: ljohnsaw on December 16, 2015, 11:40:42 PM
Jimmy,
You nailed the picture posting thing 8) Really nice, clear pictures. Having just completed my build, I see some things that may need attention:
Awesome track! Your track looks like it is flat on top - you will need a scraper/brush to keep the sawdust from building up and causing you trouble.
You have a really nice T-handle that looks like you will be using it for your blade tension - NICE. However, it is also on the side where you have the motor/drive belt. You will want your drive belt to remain constant tension. Maybe you will address this with a spring-loaded idler pulley? Or, swap out the bolt you have on the idle side for a T-handle as well.
I made my own blade guides like yours. The minute I added water-lube, the bearings ceased up. I'm guessing water brought sawdust into them. I ended up buying Cook's guides and they work great.
On your vertical guides, did you put some wear plates/Teflon in there? Would probably help it move smoothly.
Do your guide bars stay in alignment with the blade (more important vertically, not so critical front to back)? You want to be able to consistently cut square but if one side of the blade leads the other, that doesn't matter so much. On your blade guide bars, you have hex bolts - consider either welding on a T handle or replace with handles you can work without tools like this:
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/30640/Bandsaw_blade_guide_drive_side_2.jpg) You want to keep the guides up to the wood and being able to do it without tool is much nicer.
As far as keeping your ACME threads free of sawdust, I would slip some PVC pipe over it. Make the pieces just long enough that they fit when all the way up or down. Hang the bottom one from the ACME nut. The top one will just rest on the nut. Hopefully, that will cover all the thread you will be actually using.
Keep in mind that you are going to want to operate your mill from the idle wheel side so you are not getting covered in sawdust! Did you have to flip your blade (turn it inside out)? Your rotation is opposite from most mills I've seen.
Thanks for all the good info,
I didn't think of saw dust building up on the track, I will add something to control that issue as well.
I will be adding a spring loaded idler pulley and I haven't come up with a design yet but I think I am also going to have the motor be able to slide for belt adjustments.
I do like your T-handles and will be welding some handles on to the bolts at some point.
The blade guides I do like so far but they have not been proven yet since I have not been able to run it but I have looked at the cooks and if this fails I will purchase a set. It will be an easy retrofit.
The blade guides do stay in alignment. I made the guides adjustable in every direction if for some reason they become out of alignment.
The acme thread on this mill was not my original design. I originally had a cable and pulley system and I just couldn't get it to balance out properly and I had a lot of binding so this is actually design number 3 and I wish I would have started with the acme thread originally. It would have made everything better. This is the other reason you see the acme thread to the rear of the mill instead of being centered. I plan on using some vacuum cleaner hose to help keep the dust out of the treads.
I will be operating the mill from the idler pulley side and pushing forward. The engine shaft would be facing me and the motors shaft rotation is counter clockwise so the blade will be moving to the right as the teeth direction indicate. I may not fully understand you last question on this so let me know if that makes any sense at all.
Quote from: redprospector on December 17, 2015, 12:03:38 AM
Welcome to the forum Jimmysmill13!
I won't repeat what's been said. What I will say is, nice job. I like the way that you have your pillow blocks spread out. I got mine too close together, and have to replace shafts way more often than I'd like. I would recommend putting some split locking collars on the shafts to keep them from being able to move.
The only other concern I have would be for the carriage wheels. It looks to me like you used idler pulleys. I don't think they will hold up long. But I've been wrong before. ;)
Thanks!
I did put some collars with set screws on do think this should be a split lock instead?
I am not sure if the idler pulleys will hold up either. I did make them easy to switch out if one goes bad. It just a pin and collar holding them in place. It was away cheaper option then rail wheels.
Quote from: Kbeitz on December 17, 2015, 06:30:42 AM
Wow... Looking good.
I also think that you will need a spring-loaded idler pulley on your belts.
When sawing the belts will warm up and start to slip. I use a back idler
on my setup spring loaded and it really made a difference.
I also used Cooks bamdsaw guide wheels and they work great.
I also use the 13hp engine. Don't put to much set in your blades and
you will be good with that HP. I bet that like me you will be making a
bolt on extension soon.
Thanks!
I will definitely have a spring loaded idler
Quote from: redprospector on December 17, 2015, 12:10:51 AM
Quote from: Jimmysmill13 on December 16, 2015, 07:29:12 PM
Quote from: Den-Den on December 16, 2015, 07:15:14 PM
The pictures look great.
A couple of questions:
* What band speed are you planning?
* How fast will the guide bearings be spinning?
With that speed I guess these bearing will not be lasting very long.
I am look at around 4000 to 5000fpm, I will have a 13hp engine.
I am not sure what the speed will be on the bearings at this point.
If the OD of the bearings is 1 1/2", and your blade is traveling at 5000 sfpm, your guides will be spinning at about 12,732 rpm. That's pretty dog gone quick.
Quote from: justallan1 on December 17, 2015, 09:25:26 AM
Jimmy, welcome to The Forestry Forum.
Great looking build so far. I will agree with ljohnsaw on your blade tensioner, but it wouldn't be a big deal to use the other wheel for your drive wheel and flip your blade inside out, from the looks of things.
Just a random question, did you already flip the blade inside out to make it saw the direction you are showing in the pics? I ask because both mills I've had they come to me with the teeth going the opposite of what you show. I don't know if it matters a bit, just curious.
Thanks!
Yes the direction you see is the way I set it up. My though process on this at the time was I didn't know if the drive belt would have issues being that the other side is designed for adjusting my toe. I was thinking I would have some alignment issues. I maybe wrong on this. I guess its going to be trial and error at this point.
Quote from: Ox on December 17, 2015, 09:35:51 AM
Your mill looks nice and very rugged with many well-thought-out things on it. Takes longer than you think, huh? :)
The only thing that stands out to my eyes is your driven shaft, not the idle shaft. The pulley to be driven by the engine is quite a ways away from the pillow block bearing. I'm afraid you're going to have shaft breakage problems. I'm thinking somehow the space between the pulley and the outboard pillow block needs to be smaller. I would also recommend using red locktite on all the pillow block bearings. Smear it all over the shaft and the set screws. This will keep them from constantly loosening up. This is for use with the cheap Chinese bearings. The expensive US bearings probably won't have this problem. Use heat to get the loctite to let loose for repairs if needed. The guide bearings you're using are used by many mills. They wear out pretty fast but are cheap and easy to replace as well. Keep some gear oil in/on the ball bearings inside and they'll last a good long while. Gear oil is a high pressure, high shear load oil with lots of sulfur in it (hence the smell) that uses that sulfur and a sacrificial wear surface that gets replenished using more oil on the next revolution (in an oil bath gearbox). If you have any more questions, this is the best place to get them! I'm not aware of any other place on the internet with a collection of so many smart, capable men from so many walks of life. Collectively, we can do anything.
Nice looking homemade mill, buddy. You have really nailed alot of the common problems with homemade jobbers.
Thanks!
Yes it is taking me much longer than I was thinking. I don't plan on having it even operational till spring.
The drive shaft is long at the moment but that is because I haven't purchased the engine yet and didn't want to cut the shaft till I had all the final dimension worked out. It should be much short in the end. Yes these are the cheap pillow block bearing so I will put lock tight on as you indicated.
I have some 80w gear oil to use on the bearings.
Thanks again for all the info all you guys have been extremely helpfully.
Thank you all for the much appreciated input on the mill so far. I will add more photos of the progress but I may not get much more done till after the holidays.
I do have question on the blade tensioning. How do I know how much tension is right for the blade and is there and easy way to determine this or do in need to add some sort of tension gauge for the blade?
Quote from: Jimmysmill13 on December 17, 2015, 12:23:15 PM
I will be adding a spring loaded idler pulley and I haven't come up with a design yet but I think I am also going to have the motor be able to slide for belt adjustments.
Rather than an idler pulley and sliding motor I would think toward a motor hinge/pivot/turnbuckle arrangement such as WM uses. This would take care of your drive belt tension as well as your "clutch".
Quote from: Magicman on December 17, 2015, 01:16:53 PM
Quote from: Jimmysmill13 on December 17, 2015, 12:23:15 PM
I will be adding a spring loaded idler pulley and I haven't come up with a design yet but I think I am also going to have the motor be able to slide for belt adjustments.
Rather than an idler pulley and sliding motor I would think toward a motor hinge/pivot/turnbuckle arrangement such as WM uses. This would take care of your drive belt tension as well as your "clutch".
I like that idea to, it may keep things looking clean and simple on this mill.
Quote from: Jimmysmill13 on December 17, 2015, 01:05:02 PM
Thank you all for the much appreciated input on the mill so far. I will add more photos of the progress but I may not get much more done till after the holidays.
I do have question on the blade tensioning. How do I know how much tension is right for the blade and is there and easy way to determine this or do in need to add some sort of tension gauge for the blade?
A tension gauge is a nice feature, not sure it is necessary but you do need a way to set the tension so that it is repeatable between blade changes. Some mills are set up so that a torque wrench is used to turn a screw that tensions the blade, I have heard that works fine once you figure how much works for your set-up.
From what I can tell, more tension is better than less as far as cutting is concerned but it also causes more wear and tear on shafts, bearings etc. Excess tension will also cause tracking problems if the frame or shafts deflect enough to affect alignment.
I think your going to need track rollers. The belt idlers wont take the weight very well...
They are not that expensive on E-nay.
4" Temper Steel Gate V Groove Wheel Slide Roll Sliding Driveway Gate V Track
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/39553/Track_rollers.jpg)
Quote from: Jimmysmill13 on December 17, 2015, 12:23:15 PM
The blade guides do stay in alignment. I made the guides adjustable in every direction if for some reason they become out of alignment.
What I was getting at is as you slide the guide close to or far from your log, it needs to remain the exact same height from the log bunks so you cut true/square cants. Mine is off by about 1/8" at the extremes.
Quote from: Jimmysmill13 on December 17, 2015, 12:23:15 PM
I plan on using some vacuum cleaner hose to help keep the dust out of the treads.
Nice idea - does it expand/contract in length?
Quote from: Jimmysmill13 on December 17, 2015, 12:23:15 PM
I will be operating the mill from the idler pulley side and pushing forward. The engine shaft would be facing me and the motors shaft rotation is counter clockwise so the blade will be moving to the right as the teeth direction indicate. I may not fully understand you last question on this so let me know if that makes any sense at all.
I was just commenting on the direction your teeth face - no real question other than if you had to reverse the blade by turning inside out.
What is the T handle used for on the drive side? It
looks like it is used to tension the blade but will also affect the engine belt tension. I think it should only serve one purpose. You could use it to tension the engine belt and use another on the idle side for blade tension. When you are cutting (from the idle side), you will want to be able to adjust the blade tension without walking around to the other side. In my experience, I tighten my blade to the point where it stops fluttering too much. And sometime a little more as I watch it cut.
For track wheels, I picked up 3.5" cheap cast iron snatch blocks. Got 10 for $35.
Quote from: ljohnsaw on December 17, 2015, 04:56:52 PM
Quote from: Jimmysmill13 on December 17, 2015, 12:23:15 PM
The blade guides do stay in alignment. I made the guides adjustable in every direction if for some reason they become out of alignment.
What I was getting at is as you slide the guide close to or far from your log, it needs to remain the exact same height from the log bunks so you cut true/square cants. Mine is off by about 1/8" at the extremes.
I see what your getting at now. I know there are close but I have to go out and check the accuracy of this.
Quote from: Jimmysmill13 on December 17, 2015, 12:23:15 PM
I plan on using some vacuum cleaner hose to help keep the dust out of the treads.
Nice idea - does it expand/contract in length?
Yes it will expand and contract the down side is I just threw away an old vacuum that had what i am planning on using.
I will have to find some more.
Quote from: Jimmysmill13 on December 17, 2015, 12:23:15 PM
I will be operating the mill from the idler pulley side and pushing forward. The engine shaft would be facing me and the motors shaft rotation is counter clockwise so the blade will be moving to the right as the teeth direction indicate. I may not fully understand you last question on this so let me know if that makes any sense at all.
I was just commenting on the direction you teeth face - no real question other than if you had to reverse the blade by turning inside out.
I didn't turn the blade inside out that I know of, unless I did it unknowingly.
What is the T handle used for on the drive side? It looks like it is used to tension the blade but will also affect the engine belt tension. I think it should only serve one purpose. You could use it to tension the engine belt and use another on the idle side for blade tension. When you are cutting (from the idle side), you will want to be able to adjust the blade tension without walking around to the other side. In my experience, I tighten my blade to the point where it stops fluttering too much. And sometime a little more as I watch it cut.
The T handle is only for setting the tension on the blade. I haven't figured out exactly what I am doing about the belt tension yet. I may have to do as you are advising and switch it to the idle side. My concern on the idle side is this is also how I set my toe. Do you think this will cause and issue with the belt and pulleys?
For track wheels, I picked up 3.5" cheap cast iron snatch blocks. Got 10 for $35.
I like the snatch blocks, this would allow me to keep the current rail I am running.
I made toe adjustments for both side - it is/was necessary for my machine (using spare tires).
How wide is your rail? My pulleys are about 1/2" wide groove, made for 3/8" cable. My track is 1/4" angle iron, upright.
Welcome to the site.
Using 1" shaft with the go-cart hubs will not last long. I say this from experience. I had 1" shaft on one side of my mill and it bent, then broke quite fast.
I ended up with 1"3/8 shaft and it has held up fine.
I like your mill. Listen to the advise people on this site provide, it helped me greatly.
Nice job... Keep us updated.
Quote from: Jimmysmill13 on December 17, 2015, 12:32:25 PM
Quote from: redprospector on December 17, 2015, 12:03:38 AM
Welcome to the forum Jimmysmill13!
I won't repeat what's been said. What I will say is, nice job. I like the way that you have your pillow blocks spread out. I got mine too close together, and have to replace shafts way more often than I'd like. I would recommend putting some split locking collars on the shafts to keep them from being able to move.
The only other concern I have would be for the carriage wheels. It looks to me like you used idler pulleys. I don't think they will hold up long. But I've been wrong before. ;)
Thanks!
I did put some collars with set screws on do think this should be a split lock instead?
I am not sure if the idler pulleys will hold up either. I did make them easy to switch out if one goes bad. It just a pin and collar holding them in place. It was away cheaper option then rail wheels.
Yes, the collars with set screws only have the screws, and the small section of the shaft just opposite holding. Where the split collars are actually gripping/squeezing all the way around the shaft. They will hold way better.
Quote from: Jimmysmill13 on December 17, 2015, 05:48:56 PM
The T handle is only for setting the tension on the blade. I haven't figured out exactly what I am doing about the belt tension yet. I may have to do as you are advising and switch it to the idle side. My concern on the idle side is this is also how I set my toe. Do you think this will cause and issue with the belt and pulleys?
Looking at the pictures, your motor mount is attached to the main frame, right? So, as you tension your blade, you are also moving the shaft farther from the motor mount, right? That is why I was saying it is doing both. For engaging the saw, you have three options. You can have a centripetal clutch, an electric clutch (I have that now, part of the lawn tractor engine) or a lever activated belt tension system (had that in my first iteration). With how you have your blade tension potentially affecting your drive belt tension, I think the lever tension system would be your best option at this point. Then your idle side can remain as it is now. But I think you need to figure out a way to adjust toe (easily) on the drive side as well. You certainly can elongate the holes on one of your pillow block mount plates, but that is not an easy field adjustment.
Welcome to the Forestry Forum. Great job on the mill. My little mill uses 1 1/2" shafts with the 16" wheels centered between them and no overhang. You may need to go with much larger shafts to keep the blade tension from flexing the shafts. :)
Here is a update on the saw mill I have been building. It has been a while since my last post but here is what I have done. I have added a 13HP engine, Centrifugal Clutch, and Idler pulley. I have also modified a few things taken from all your recommendations. Things like blade direction and the drive wheel is now on the left wheel. Today I was able to fire it up and run a couple test runs on the mill. I must say that I am more then pleased. I was surprised how well it cut. The cut was straight and the surface was very smooth. The thickness from one side to the other was only off about a 1/32" to 1/16".
The next step is to add:
Battery for engine
Tank for lubricant
Blade Guard
Guard for Acme Thread.
Height Gauge
Here are the Photos
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/IMG_2510~0.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/IMG_2511~1.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/IMG_2513~1.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/IMG_2517~1.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/IMG_2516~1.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/IMG_2515~1.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/IMG_2520~0.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/IMG_2518~0.JPG)
Another success story - well done!
Quote from: Jimmysmill13 on April 07, 2016, 06:36:50 PM
Here is a update on the saw mill I have been building. It has been a while since my last post but here is what I have done. I have added a 13HP engine, Centrifugal Clutch, and Idler pulley. I have also modified a few things taken from all your recommendations. Things like blade direction and the drive wheel is now on the left wheel. Today I was able to fire it up and run a couple test runs on the mill. I must say that I am more then pleased. I was surprised how well it cut. The cut was straight and the surface was very smooth. The thickness from one side to the other was only off about a 1/32" to 1/16".
The next step is to add:
Battery for engine
Tank for lubricant
Blade Guard
Guard for Acme Thread.
Height Gauge
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Well done and sure looks nice.Now I'm asking what did it cost American $ wise Cause it would cost me about 40k Canadian to build one like that,I have 2 mills one is a Norwood's and its older and also a Trim Saw.Sure its rusty and needs work Here in Canada people think $20.00 would buy it :) .Paid 6k but never got it work,to busy working else where,So I asking 2,500.00 but people figure its way out of ball park.Anything less well the hot wrench can turn it scrap for me or turn into a trailer for the logs & lumber. ::)But just wondering what it cost you for yours up this stage,Material & wages of building it. ;)
Congratulations on making some cuts! I really like your belt tensioner. I need to hit a Pick-N-Pull to get me one of them.
Quote from: papow22 on April 07, 2016, 10:35:01 PM
Quote from: Jimmysmill13 on April 07, 2016, 06:36:50 PM
Here is a update on the saw mill I have been building. It has been a while since my last post but here is what I have done. I have added a 13HP engine, Centrifugal Clutch, and Idler pulley. I have also modified a few things taken from all your recommendations. Things like blade direction and the drive wheel is now on the left wheel. Today I was able to fire it up and run a couple test runs on the mill. I must say that I am more then pleased. I was surprised how well it cut. The cut was straight and the surface was very smooth. The thickness from one side to the other was only off about a 1/32" to 1/16".
The next step is to add:
Battery for engine
Tank for lubricant
Blade Guard
Guard for Acme Thread.
Height Gauge
Well done and sure looks nice.Now I'm asking what did it cost American $ wise Cause it would cost me about 40k Canadian to build one like that,I have 2 mills one is a Norwood's and its older and also a Trim Saw.Sure its rusty and needs work Here in Canada people think $20.00 would buy it :) .Paid 6k but never got it work,to busy working else where,So I asking 2,500.00 but people figure its way out of ball park.Anything less well the hot wrench can turn it scrap for me or turn into a trailer for the logs & lumber. ::)But just wondering what it cost you for yours up this stage,Material & wages of building it. ;)
I have approximately 1000 to 1200 hundred in materials but some of the materials I have had laying around from other projects. The labor is countless hours of trial and error. This project has never been about the cost but more about the challenge that I could built it and it be functional. This is just a hobby for me, I wanted the mill so I could cut rough cut lumber for other projects that I will be working on. Its been fun making the mill to this point.
Quote from: ljohnsaw on April 07, 2016, 11:36:25 PM
Congratulations on making some cuts! I really like your belt tensioner. I need to hit a Pick-N-Pull to get me one of them.
Thnaks!
Thats kinda neat... It cost mw $1280.00 to build my mill...
Here is a Link to on of my first runs on the sawmill
https://youtu.be/sEVqSD00rmQ
That is a board making machine. 8)
smiley_clapping
Success! Looks nice and smooth and seems like the "sing" sounds right, too. Cool!
SAWMILL BUILD UPDATE
Over the last 4 months I have made several changes and update to my mill. The changes I have done are as followed.
-- New Steel Tack wheels (Harbor Freight 2 Ton Push Beam Trolley for the wheels)
-- Lubricant Tank / line
-- Mill is now portable (Used old camper frame 2200lbs axle)
-- Blade Guard Built
-- Wireless Winch added to control lift (Harbor Freight Badland 2500 lb. ATV/Utility Electric Winch with Wireless Remote Control)
-- Replaced tires with Sheaves (18.75" OD H-Bushing Single Groove Pulleys with MVP Industrial B57/5L600 V-Force Premium V-Belt, 5/8" Top Width X 60" Outside Circumference)
-- 4 trailer Jacks (3500 lb. Capacity Drop Leg Heavy Duty Trailer Jack)
-- Built new log stops / Log Dogs
-- Built tie downs / supports for transporting
-- Wheel Fenders
-- Paint
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/3742A00032.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1521547658)
New Steel Wheels are from a Harbor Freight beam trolley.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/3742A00006.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1521548144)
7 Gallon fresh water tank (RELIANCE AQUA TAINER Tank from Walmart)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/3742A00004.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1521548138)
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These secure the mill to the frame.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/3742A00066~1.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1521554069)
This is a removable support for the mill head when transporting.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/3742A00007.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1521557118)(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/3742A00020.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1521557127)(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/3742A00010.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1521557121)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/3742A00017.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1521557127)(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/3742A00021.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1521557133)(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/3742A00060.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1521557138)(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/3742B00027.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1521557141)
I like your color scheme - are you into Harley's? ;)
I REALLY like your transport support bar for the head. That will save you some grief. On your log dogs, I noticed your T-bolts down on the bottom. You probably already found out you won't be needing those. Once there is pressure on the top log screw, they seem to lock in place on the slider.
Your log bunks look pretty low. What is the thickness of your last cut you can make? Might need to add something on top of the bunks. Have you thought about adding linkage to your log dogs so they all raise and lower together? Not sure if that would be good or bad.
that has to roll real easy with that size wheel?
Quote from: ljohnsaw on March 20, 2018, 11:06:38 AM
I like your color scheme - are you into Harley's? ;)
I REALLY like your transport support bar for the head. That will save you some grief. On your log dogs, I noticed your T-bolts down on the bottom. You probably already found out you won't be needing those. Once there is pressure on the top log screw, they seem to lock in place on the slider.
Your log bunks look pretty low. What is the thickness of your last cut you can make? Might need to add something on top of the bunks. Have you thought about adding linkage to your log dogs so they all raise and lower together? Not sure if that would be good or bad.
Thanks!
The T-bolt are really just to store the log dogs. That way they are not bouncing around on the road.
Your right about the log bunks. I have to add a top bunk. My last cut is 5" so I will be adding those in the near future.
Quote from: Crusarius on March 20, 2018, 11:22:04 AM
that has to roll real easy with that size wheel?
The mill rolls extremely easy and smooth. I was really surprised how well they worked. The wheel is 4"
Nice looking setup. What size metal did you use for the log stops? The sliding parts.
Looks great....
Quote from: Kwill on March 20, 2018, 10:56:55 PM
Nice looking setup. What size metal did you use for the log stops? The sliding parts.
Thanks!
The log stops are made from 1/4"x2"x2" square tubing.
It slides into 1/4"x2.5"x2.5" square tubing.
So today I setup the mill up. Fitted the new blade and started to test run the mill. 5 minutes into the run I bent the a shaft.
I am running a 1" shaft and I know that was it was insufficient. So I need to upgaded. Will a 1.5" shaft work ok? I have H-Block style Sheaves and the largest H-Block available is 1.5".
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/0DB68D21-D940-47AC-A3A6-BE44A6BEB2AC.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1521754225)
More important is the kind of steel you use... Use something like 1060 steel
Quote from: Jimmysmill13 on March 21, 2018, 10:16:47 PM
Quote from: Kwill on March 20, 2018, 10:56:55 PM
Nice looking setup. What size metal did you use for the log stops? The sliding parts.
Thanks!
The log stops are made from 1/4"x2"x2" square tubing.
It slides into 1/4"x2.5"x2.5" square tubing.
Thanks for the info. Gonna pick some up tomorrow hopefully to get mine made.
Quote from: Kwill on March 22, 2018, 10:33:40 PM
Quote from: Jimmysmill13 on March 21, 2018, 10:16:47 PM
Quote from: Kwill on March 20, 2018, 10:56:55 PM
Nice looking setup. What size metal did you use for the log stops? The sliding parts.
Thanks!
The log stops are made from 1/4"x2"x2" square tubing.
It slides into 1/4"x2.5"x2.5" square tubing.
Thanks for the info. Gonna pick some up tomorrow hopefully to get mine made.
Word of caution, though. Not all 2x2 and 2.5x2.5 are equal. I have some 2x2 that is very square-cornered and some that is more round-cornered. The 2.5x2.5 (that I got) is more rounded cornered. The more square 2x2 won't fit without knocking the corners off - a real PITA. Also, the inside of the 2.5 will have a weld seam that you will have to deal with. I chucked mine up in a 4-jaw off center and used a boring bar to take it out. Others have used a file - not sure which is faster.
Also, I had some 2x2 that wasn't. It was slightly thicker one way as was the 2.5x2.5. They only fit one way so watch for that as well when you get ready to weld nuts and such on. Or, do what I did and hit the thick side with an angle grinder - almost was able to fix it with a sanding disk - it was that close.
If you don't mind me asking what did you use for your rails that the wheels are running on. It looks like a small railroad rail. :D
Quote from: Kbeitz on March 22, 2018, 06:05:40 PM
More important is the kind of steel you use... Use something like 1060 steel
Would you know where to purchase some 1060 shafts? That stuff is hard to find.
Quote from: BigZ La on March 23, 2018, 12:19:30 AM
If you don't mind me asking what did you use for your rails that the wheels are running on. It looks like a small railroad rail. :D
The I-beam and Rail are from a Double Girder Crane that was taken out of service.
Quote from: ljohnsaw on March 22, 2018, 11:48:05 PMI have some 2x2 that is very square-cornered and some that is more round-cornered.
This is typically due to wall thickness. The thicker the wall the larger the radius. Makes spotting wall thicknesses pretty easy if you know what you are looking for.
Quote from: Jimmysmill13 on March 23, 2018, 06:41:46 AM
Quote from: Kbeitz on March 22, 2018, 06:05:40 PM
More important is the kind of steel you use... Use something like 1060 steel
Would you know where to purchase some 1060 shafts? That stuff is hard to find.
Any of the metal suppler should be able to get you anything you want.
If you have the right shafting you could stay with 1"
Got to E-bay and search for "
hardened steel linear bearing rod"
can also put that end into double shear by adding another bearing. But I would still recommend a better shaft
E-bay has some air hardening, high-carbon, high-chromium tool 1" D2 shafting listed for sale. Much better than standard shafting.
Quote from: Crusarius on March 23, 2018, 09:03:34 AM
can also put that end into double shear by adding another bearing. But I would still recommend a better shaft
Thanks for the help
Quote from: Kbeitz on March 23, 2018, 09:10:15 AM
E-bay has some air hardening, high-carbon, high-chromium tool 1" D2 shafting listed for sale. Much better than standard shafting.
Ok I will check that out. Thanks for the help
UPDATE AND REDESIGN #1000
I have decided to to change the 1" shaft to 1.5" shaft. I felt even with going with a 1" higher grade shaft there maybe two much flex with the amount of pressure being applied to the band saw blade and sheaves.
I have installed new:
Shafts 1.5"
UC208 1.5" Pillow Blocks
Split Collars 1.5"
New Drive Sheave to slow the Blade speed down to 4416 SFPM
91" 5/8" B-Belt
Redesign belt tensioner / bracket
Built guard around drive wheel
I have since been able to run the sawmill on my first test log and very pleased with the result. The mill is running great now. I did make one mistake and I don't know what I was thinking when I installed the log dogs and log stops. I installed the log stops on the wrong side of the log bed. Instead of removing then I am just going to lift the mill head off and spin it around. Problem solved.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/SAWMILL_PHOTO_SPECS_7.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1523137566) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/SAWMILL_PHOTO_SPECS_5.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1523137561) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/SAWMILL_PHOTO_SPECS_3.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1523137557) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/SAWMILL_PHOTO_SPECS_4.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1523137562) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/SAWMILL_PHOTO_SPECS_1.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1523137554) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/SAWMILL_PHOTO_SPECS_2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1523137554) (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/SAWMILL_PHOTO_SPECS_6.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1523137565)(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/IMG_8732.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1523139023)(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/IMG_8731.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1523139023)
Wow Jimmy, this 2½ year journey should be required reading for anyone considering a sawmill build. You have been very professional with your narratives and picture documentation. My FF hat is off to you. smiley_thumbsup
Very nice build 8)
Here is a link of my mill operational on youtube.
SAWMILL BUILD UPDATE - YouTube (https://youtu.be/8K3BoV3_1Wk)
Wow, man I really like your efforts on making such an impressive sawmill. Well, there are many SPAM LINK EDITED OUT BY ADMIN available and you should use them for future repairing.
Well, I started watching this guy above yesterday when I saw posts that just seemed odd. Friendly posts but out of place. I thought and hoped perhaps he was the first legit member from Pakistan. NOPE. So, I had to ban him. Apparently the new tactics from spammers is to gain entrance, try to blend in, then post links to direct you to what ever it is they post links to.
Jeff, I wondered about that guy.... I saw a couple of posts in other threads. They just didn't seem right. So much for blending in.
Jimmysmill13, you've done an awesome job with this build! It is nice to see a home built machine that looks so finished and professional! I hope you get some custom logos for your machine. That will take it up one more notch!
Yup, that is the guy that I have been watching since he first joined. He just was not right with his comments.
I'm afraid that's an indication of how gullible spammers think people are. Glad Jeff is vigilant!
Quote from: SawyerTed on April 09, 2018, 03:06:02 PM
Jeff, I wondered about that guy.... I saw a couple of posts in other threads. They just didn't seem right. So much for blending in.
Jimmysmill13, you've done an awesome job with this build! It is nice to see a home built machine that looks so finished and professional! I hope you get some custom logos for your machine. That will take it up one more notch!
Thanks! I like the logo idea.
Just finished adding some log bunks. 10' Birch log loaded on the new log bunks.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/2C830026-24F8-407F-BF4B-7B56B7B54A5A.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1524515039)
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Added a log winch and ramps. Ramps are 5" channel. The winch is 3500lbs ATV winch.
https://youtu.be/FSGmkRdE9UI (https://youtu.be/FSGmkRdE9UI)
Excellent build and documentation of the build. I'm tech-ignorant, so posting pics of my build will be about as challenging as the build its self, especially with the editing you did on the pics, with description blocks in the pics. hopefully it doesn't take me but 3-4 months to get mine built. Again, excellent build sir.
question for ya on your winch you used for your raise/lower.
can you post a few more close up shots of the set up please?
i think (99% sure) i will be doing the same, but will probably go to a 3500# is i can find 1 with the gb on the same side as the motor, so i condo what you did, weld on a sprocket to the cable drum.
Quote from: charles mann on November 06, 2018, 11:03:40 PM
Excellent build and documentation of the build. I'm tech-ignorant, so posting pics of my build will be about as challenging as the build its self, especially with the editing you did on the pics, with description blocks in the pics. hopefully it doesn't take me but 3-4 months to get mine built. Again, excellent build sir.
question for ya on your winch you used for your raise/lower.
can you post a few more close up shots of the set up please?
i think (99% sure) i will be doing the same, but will probably go to a 3500# is i can find 1 with the gb on the same side as the motor, so i condo what you did, weld on a sprocket to the cable drum.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/22EB1D3D-28C6-4D29-825A-EF1D3734F43C.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1541605090)
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you've got to have some crazy tension on that chain. I tried that little engagement on the drive sprocket and I couldn't keep it from skipping teeth
Quote from: Crusarius on November 07, 2018, 11:08:13 AM
you've got to have some crazy tension on that chain. I tried that little engagement on the drive sprocket and I couldn't keep it from skipping teeth
The tension on the chain is ajusted by the center urathane guide block. It's just enough tension to take any slack out of the chain. I haven't had any issues. The mill head runs up and down very smooth.
yours is definitely better balanced than mine.
did a machine shop build you a new cable drum or was the factory drum diameter small enough, you found a sprocket bushing that would fit over it?
im wanting to go the same method, but drive a cross shaft with sprockets on the cross shaft that will raise/lower the saw beam, using either double roller #40 on each side, or maybe a single #50 per side.
Wondering if the winch could go directly on the shaft, then you would only need two sprockets.
Quote from: charles mann on November 07, 2018, 07:53:01 PM
did a machine shop build you a new cable drum or was the factory drum diameter small enough, you found a sprocket bushing that would fit over it?
im wanting to go the same method, but drive a cross shaft with sprockets on the cross shaft that will raise/lower the saw beam, using either double roller #40 on each side, or maybe a single #50 per side.
I removed the drum from winch and used a cut off wheel to remove the drum flange. I then cleaned the drum shaft up with a grinder. The Sprocket fit the drum shaft size. I also used a keyed sprocket and cut a groove for the key. If you use a new grinding wheel it is the same size as the key.
Awesome build and I am glad I found it since I am starting on a similar build. I was about to make some of the same mistakes you made and fixed. Now I can start with your fixes from the beginning.
How far apart are your v groove wheels on each side? I made mine 24" and want to make sure it is long enough before welding the uprights to them.
Quote from: thinwater on November 08, 2018, 10:15:42 PM
Awesome build and I am glad I found it since I am starting on a similar build. I was about to make some of the same mistakes you made and fixed. Now I can start with your fixes from the beginning.
How far apart are your v groove wheels on each side? I made mine 24" and want to make sure it is long enough before welding the uprights to them.
I am happy the tread is helping.
My mill is not using V Groove wheels. I am currently using 4" steel single flange wheels. I removed the wheels from a Harbor Freight 2 ton push beam trolley. I did replace the bearings in the wheels. They came with non-sealed bearings. I replaced them with sealed ones.
The mill runs on crane rails. The only reason for this is, I had it and it was free. The mill base is 24" long and I placed safety guide wheels under the lip of the crane rail. This was done to keep the mill from accidental tipping front or back with such a short base. Surprisingly without those wheels the mill is well balanced. This also allowed me to keep the base at 24" and maximize my short 13' Log bed. The longest log I can cut is 11' with this mill. This is more than enough length for my use.
The down side to using the crane rails is the saw dust can build up on the rails and needs to be scraped of occasionally. I will come up with a fix so they are self cleaning as the mill rolls down the rail.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/SAWMILL_WHEELS.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1541778557)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/SAWMILL_WHEELS_2.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1541778557)
Quote from: Jimmysmill13 on November 09, 2018, 10:57:46 AMI will come up with a fix so they are self cleaning as the mill rolls down the rail.
Cut some plastic from a barrel (can get them at car wash places for free). Mount it with a bit of down pressure so it scrapes your rail both coming and going. It will wear down to a matching profile.
Maybe like this http://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47626/CIMG3982.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1516316570
More to be seen here My DIY bandsaw mill in Sawmills and Milling (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=99663.msg1542483#msg1542483)
Thank you for the reply. I made two V groove wheels on my lathe to fit on the corner of a peice of angle iron sitting with the bend up. I wanted to make sure I went wide enough with the base for a small build.
Quote from: Jimmysmill13 on November 08, 2018, 11:00:59 AM
Quote from: charles mann on November 07, 2018, 07:53:01 PM
did a machine shop build you a new cable drum or was the factory drum diameter small enough, you found a sprocket bushing that would fit over it?
im wanting to go the same method, but drive a cross shaft with sprockets on the cross shaft that will raise/lower the saw beam, using either double roller #40 on each side, or maybe a single #50 per side.
I removed the drum from winch and used a cut off wheel to remove the drum flange. I then cleaned the drum shaft up with a grinder. The Sprocket fit the drum shaft size. I also used a keyed sprocket and cut a groove for the key. If you use a new grinding wheel it is the same size as the key.
Copy. Iv got 2500# tsc traveler winch that i will tactically dismantle and see what i can find for sprocket bushings that will fit over the drum. Thank you for sharing your info.
Quote from: charles mann on November 11, 2018, 02:28:13 PM
Quote from: Jimmysmill13 on November 08, 2018, 11:00:59 AM
Quote from: charles mann on November 07, 2018, 07:53:01 PM
did a machine shop build you a new cable drum or was the factory drum diameter small enough, you found a sprocket bushing that would fit over it?
im wanting to go the same method, but drive a cross shaft with sprockets on the cross shaft that will raise/lower the saw beam, using either double roller #40 on each side, or maybe a single #50 per side.
I removed the drum from winch and used a cut off wheel to remove the drum flange. I then cleaned the drum shaft up with a grinder. The Sprocket fit the drum shaft size. I also used a keyed sprocket and cut a groove for the key. If you use a new grinding wheel it is the same size as the key.
Copy. Iv got 2500# tsc traveler winch that i will tactically dismantle and see what i can find for sprocket bushings that will fit over the drum. Thank you for sharing your info.
I used the Surplus Center for my sprockets. Tractor supply is another good place.
Surplus Center (http://www.surpluscenter.com)
Quote from: Jimmysmill13 on November 11, 2018, 02:44:38 PM
Quote from: charles mann on November 11, 2018, 02:28:13 PM
Quote from: Jimmysmill13 on November 08, 2018, 11:00:59 AM
Quote from: charles mann on November 07, 2018, 07:53:01 PM
did a machine shop build you a new cable drum or was the factory drum diameter small enough, you found a sprocket bushing that would fit over it?
im wanting to go the same method, but drive a cross shaft with sprockets on the cross shaft that will raise/lower the saw beam, using either double roller #40 on each side, or maybe a single #50 per side.
I removed the drum from winch and used a cut off wheel to remove the drum flange. I then cleaned the drum shaft up with a grinder. The Sprocket fit the drum shaft size. I also used a keyed sprocket and cut a groove for the key. If you use a new grinding wheel it is the same size as the key.
Copy. Iv got 2500# tsc traveler winch that i will tactically dismantle and see what i can find for sprocket bushings that will fit over the drum. Thank you for sharing your info.
I used the Surplus Center for my sprockets. Tractor supply is another good place.
Surplus Center (http://www.surpluscenter.com)
That they are. Iv been eyeballing their weld-on sprockets and hubs, and they are local, dont have to order online and wait for what could be the wrong part, then have to mess with returning and ordering the right part. Plus im tax exempt, which help a lil bit.
Thanks for the pics of your chain raising system. I was stumped on how I wanted to do mine. I saw your post last night and looked through the pics and got some ideas. I just put a handle on mine like your original was. I have one of those winches in my log arch. It works great. Only thing is I noticed is it moves a little more when you let off the remote. does yours do the same? Do you have to stop it a little sooner than where you want to stop?
Quote from: Kwill on November 13, 2018, 08:41:01 PM
Thanks for the pics of your chain raising system. I was stumped on how I wanted to do mine. I saw your post last night and looked through the pics and got some ideas. I just put a handle on mine like your original was. I have one of those winches in my log arch. It works great. Only thing is I noticed is it moves a little more when you let off the remote. does yours do the same? Do you have to stop it a little sooner than where you want to stop?
No Problem, Happy to help.
This winch has not had that issue. Are you using the wireless winch remote that came with the winch or the plug and play one you can buy separately?
The Badland wireless remote will do what you are referring to. Picture below.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/41329/4E9D8F1C-7A97-4FD3-87B2-BDB3BF959F85.jpeg?easyrotate_cache=1542239281)
Yes I use the wireless remote
I had a wireless remote on my UTV winch and it kept creeping. finally burnt out the solenoid. I decided I wanted a switch anyhow. it was to hard to work the remote with gloves on.
Quote from: Crusarius on November 14, 2018, 08:28:09 PM
I had a wireless remote on my UTV winch and it kept creeping. finally burnt out the solenoid. I decided I wanted a switch anyhow. it was to hard to work the remote with gloves on.
Iv noticed the same issue with my badlands remote from HF. I burned the brake out in the 12,000# badland, so i put the solinoid box and wireless remote on my 18,000# warn. I wear tillman driving/work gloves and have to take a glove off to operate the remote.
The corded controler crapped out on me while yarding a walnut onto my trailer, and had to disconnect the batter terminal to stop the winch, till i could dry out the contacts and finish the job. After that, i bought the wireless but it eats batteries.