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WOOD GARAGE FLOOR

Started by RAYGYVER, October 15, 2018, 02:59:02 PM

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RAYGYVER

Quote from: Crusarius on October 18, 2018, 07:56:11 AM
sawzall and glue.

use sawzall to cut nails pull the board then glue new one back in. the glue will keep it sealed. I am thinking that you probably will not be changing boards 1 at a time. I would bet a section would fail. if you make 12" wide sections then you can replace a 12" wide section at a time.

you really want to get fancy put butterflies in them to hold the 12" plank sections together. I would avoid going through the vapor barrier and insulation once those are broken your life of the floor decreases severely.

You may also want to put tongue and groove on the 12" sections (sides and ends).
I'll have to see what a butterfly is...."hey google!"
I fear not death, I fear not to live.
Ray Cecil | GrabCAD
www.linkedin.com/in/ray-cecil-b862805b

RAYGYVER

Butterflys look like a lot of work
I fear not death, I fear not to live.
Ray Cecil | GrabCAD
www.linkedin.com/in/ray-cecil-b862805b

Crusarius

maybe use a truss plate? alot less work :)

not nearly as nice looking though.

Crusarius

a butterfly can be created using a dovetail router bit. be better if you can get a big enough one. but its doable with a small one.

Crusarius

hmm quick search just turned up a 1x1x1/2" 14 degree dovetail router bit. for $28. That would work.

RAYGYVER

Quote from: Crusarius on October 18, 2018, 08:14:18 AM
hmm quick search just turned up a 1x1x1/2" 14 degree dovetail router bit. for $28. That would work.
You might be onto something there. 
I fear not death, I fear not to live.
Ray Cecil | GrabCAD
www.linkedin.com/in/ray-cecil-b862805b

Hilltop366

There is some foam boards that have strapping groves made in them, the strapping would lie flush with the top of the foam and provide a place to fasten the floor boards to.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bw7lg6Okvks

If you wanted something thicker than strapping another option would be to lay down a layer of foam and then add nailers with more foam in between the same thickness as the nailers.

That foam board cuts really nice on a table saw BTW.

Crusarius

be real easy to make up butterfly stock in 6' lengths then cut to length and install. simple table saw work.

If you really want to get fancy you make a jig to cut it then you will have a bit matched to a jig and can make them real easy whenever you need to.

btulloh

You wouldn't want cross-grain in those butterflies.  

Labor is starting to add up fast on this job.

Looking forward to seeing the progress though.
HM126

RAYGYVER

GOT A NEW TOY FOR THE HOMESTEAD!!!! I think my sons where more excited than me......nah. ;D

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I fear not death, I fear not to live.
Ray Cecil | GrabCAD
www.linkedin.com/in/ray-cecil-b862805b

RAYGYVER

Any thoughts on this? This still allows for easy disassembly, and solves the issues of the rebar penetrating the moisture barrier, and the top faces staying in plane. Negatives would be using a lot of wood screws.



 
I fear not death, I fear not to live.
Ray Cecil | GrabCAD
www.linkedin.com/in/ray-cecil-b862805b

DPatton

Congrats on the new mill! 
TimberKing 1600, 30' gooseneck trailer, Chevy HD2500, Echo Chainsaw, 60" Logrite.

Work isn't so bad when you enjoy what your doing.
D & S Sawmill Services

DPatton

Quote from: RAYGYVER on October 19, 2018, 08:44:05 AM
Any thoughts on this? This still allows for easy disassembly, and solves the issues of the rebar penetrating the moisture barrier, and the top faces staying in plane. Negatives would be using a lot of wood screws.




If you went with this method I would suggest you lay the bottom layer on a diagonal to the top layer. 
TimberKing 1600, 30' gooseneck trailer, Chevy HD2500, Echo Chainsaw, 60" Logrite.

Work isn't so bad when you enjoy what your doing.
D & S Sawmill Services

RAYGYVER

Quote from: DPatton on October 19, 2018, 08:51:05 AM
Quote from: RAYGYVER on October 19, 2018, 08:44:05 AM
Any thoughts on this? This still allows for easy disassembly, and solves the issues of the rebar penetrating the moisture barrier, and the top faces staying in plane. Negatives would be using a lot of wood screws.




If you went with this method I would suggest you lay the bottom layer on a diagonal to the top layer.
I am not following your thought. There is one wood layer. Under that is foam...I am not sure what you mean. Thanks for the comment.  8)
I fear not death, I fear not to live.
Ray Cecil | GrabCAD
www.linkedin.com/in/ray-cecil-b862805b

RAYGYVER

Quote from: DPatton on October 19, 2018, 08:49:10 AM
Congrats on the new mill!
Hey thanks! Looks like you've got a nice one yourself! That's a really nice one. Maybe I'll get there one day, but I'll see how we like using this one and doing the wood projects it'll bring us first.
I fear not death, I fear not to live.
Ray Cecil | GrabCAD
www.linkedin.com/in/ray-cecil-b862805b

RAYGYVER

Quote from: DPatton on October 19, 2018, 08:51:05 AM
Quote from: RAYGYVER on October 19, 2018, 08:44:05 AM
Any thoughts on this? This still allows for easy disassembly, and solves the issues of the rebar penetrating the moisture barrier, and the top faces staying in plane. Negatives would be using a lot of wood screws.




If you went with this method I would suggest you lay the bottom layer on a diagonal to the top layer.
Okay, I think I know what you meant, There is not two layers of wood. Its one 2" thick board with a square cut on each side. You alternate the boards to lock them together. I see you probably thought there are two layers of 1" thick boards. 
I fear not death, I fear not to live.
Ray Cecil | GrabCAD
www.linkedin.com/in/ray-cecil-b862805b

Crusarius

Dpatton has a good point. of you have all the layers going the same direction they will pull apart. its like plywood, they alternate the grain between layers to resist pull apart.

Diagonal or perpendicular to the floor will make a ton of sense. I would lean towards just perpendicular since it is a lot less material usage.

RAYGYVER

Quote from: Crusarius on October 19, 2018, 09:26:52 AM
Dpatton has a good point. of you have all the layers going the same direction they will pull apart. its like plywood, they alternate the grain between layers to resist pull apart.

Diagonal or perpendicular to the floor will make a ton of sense. I would lean towards just perpendicular since it is a lot less material usage.
This might clear things up. One layer, not two.
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I fear not death, I fear not to live.
Ray Cecil | GrabCAD
www.linkedin.com/in/ray-cecil-b862805b

Crusarius

what I was referring to was the substrate not the wood. 2 layers of wood is unnecessary.

RAYGYVER

The substrate is foam board. Its not going to matter what direction I run the foam. Under that is the sand/gravel compacted layer. So, I am not sure exactly what layer you are referring to that I would run diagonally or perpendicular. 
I fear not death, I fear not to live.
Ray Cecil | GrabCAD
www.linkedin.com/in/ray-cecil-b862805b

Crusarius

if you run the long seam of the foam board to match the long seam of the wood then you will have a spot that will pull itself apart over time. you want to make the seams perpendicular to each other so they resist pulling apart.

aka alternating grain.

RAYGYVER

Quote from: Crusarius on October 19, 2018, 10:27:16 AM
if you run the long seam of the foam board to match the long seam of the wood then you will have a spot that will pull itself apart over time. you want to make the seams perpendicular to each other so they resist pulling apart.

aka alternating grain.
Ok. I get what you are saying. It is possible the long end of a wood board might rest directly onto the long edge of foam board. So yeah, good point. I'll make sure they are perp.
Anyone know what kind of tape is used in joining foam board? Certainly regular ole duct tape isn't going to work....or would it?
I fear not death, I fear not to live.
Ray Cecil | GrabCAD
www.linkedin.com/in/ray-cecil-b862805b

RAYGYVER

I fear not death, I fear not to live.
Ray Cecil | GrabCAD
www.linkedin.com/in/ray-cecil-b862805b

Hilltop366

I have been working on a "super cooler" for a off grid camp and using leftover pieces of foam board to make a foam box, I taped the box together with regular duct tape and the pieces that I stretched a bit to get some tension on to hold things tight did not stay on the pieces that I did not stretch sort of stayed and the pieces that I went all around the box and returned to tape stayed.

In short the tape did not stick well to the foam but did stick well to itself so far.

The foam box will be covered with a wood box in the end so it won't matter for my application.

DPatton

Your right I did think you were showing two 1" layers of wood, my bad.

  However I would suggest against the method you are proposing simply because normal seasonal movement of your floor boards will split each board at your fastening pattern. a board that wide will shrink and or swell significantly with moisture and humidity changes. That's why most wood floors are built using narrower boards. 
TimberKing 1600, 30' gooseneck trailer, Chevy HD2500, Echo Chainsaw, 60" Logrite.

Work isn't so bad when you enjoy what your doing.
D & S Sawmill Services

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