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Shaper cutter

Started by troutcreekman, February 10, 2010, 12:35:55 AM

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troutcreekman

Howdy,

Does anyone make a T&G shaper cutter for 1 1/2" decking? I can.t seem to find one. Too Big? Thanks, David

SwampDonkey

Probably have to use a slot cutter and a stacked slot cutter. Heck I can't even cut molding on a 1/2" shank 2 HP table mounted router. The bits break when cutting hardwood, will work I suppose in pine. But hardwood will bust them bits unless you take multiple passes.  ::)
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

pineywoods

I have a carbide set that will go 1 1/2. Came from a company called MLCS, I usually get a catalog bundled with the catalogs from Penn State Industries.
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

Den Socling

SD,

I wonder why those bits break on you. I run lots of hardwood on the same setup and have never broken a bit. This includes a lot of tongue and groove paneling done in a single pass through white oak. And my bits have come from ebay and Grizzly.

Den

troutcreekman

Here are a few more details. I am trying to find the best way to make 2x6 T&G with western red cedar for roof decking. I will be in a location with solar and wind power off the grid and will have access to a 5kw generator. Moulder/planers use to many amps. AMP wise a 3hp shaper would probably work or a 3hp router table but for these last two options I haven't seen T&G Cutters for 1 1/2" lumber. Are there other ways to skin this cat? thanks again, David

SwampDonkey

Yeah, I don't know Den and the bits I was using on ash, they were not cheap bits. Not a nice feeling to be half way down a 4 foot piece and see a molding bit bend over and make lots of noise. Stand back and tap the kill switch on the table with a stick. My response would be highly censored on this forum. :D
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

woodmills1

did you try the grizzly catalogue, they have a lot of shaper cutters.  You may need more than a 1/2 shaft.
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM

SwampDonkey

Looks that way alright, bigger than 1/2" shank I mean.  :D :)
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

pineywoods

I've busted off a few cutters with 1/4 inch shanks, but never 1/2. You aren't leaving them stick way out above the collet I hope..
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

SwampDonkey

"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

jdtuttle

You can use a table saw with a dado or router with slot bit & cut grooves on both sides. Rip splines to join the 2x6's.
jim
Have a great day

troutcreekman

I like that idea, would be ripping a lot of splines though! Thanks, David
Have you done that before?

pasbuild

The cutters your looking for are readily available with a 1¼ bore, just bush them down to your arbor size.  I wouldn't try this on anything less then a ¾ arbor though and multiple passes might work best.
If it can't be nailed or glued then screw it

scsmith42

Quote from: troutcreekman on February 10, 2010, 11:40:18 AM
Here are a few more details. I am trying to find the best way to make 2x6 T&G with western red cedar for roof decking. I will be in a location with solar and wind power off the grid and will have access to a 5kw generator. Moulder/planers use to many amps. AMP wise a 3hp shaper would probably work or a 3hp router table but for these last two options I haven't seen T&G Cutters for 1 1/2" lumber. Are there other ways to skin this cat? thanks again, David

David, rather than T&G could you use a shiplap joint?  If so, all that you'll need is a straight cutter and those are very common. 

If you need T&G, several companies can make one for you if it's not a stock item. 

Another choice - that may be more economical, is to purchase a moulding head for the shaper, and use inserts.  Grizzly sells the moulding heads that take a corrugated knife, and all of the major moulding suppliers have these options too.  http://www.grizzly.com/products/2-Moulding-Head-w-3-4-Bore/G2320

Here in NC, Moulder Services, Inc (MSI) has a good reputation.  http://www.moulderservices.com/  I've been purchasing the profile knives for my Baker M412 from them and their price and quality has been excellent.  A set of profile knives for the Baker are usually around 80 bucks, give or take.
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

troutcreekman

The 2x6's will be used for roof decking I wonder if code allows the shiplap vs. t&g? I could definitely do the ship lap on my 3hp router with table. I will look for 1 1/2" T&G moulder cutters for adding on to a shaper also, thanks for the great input. Keep those ideas coming! Thanks, David

beenthere

Two passes through the shiplap head will give the tongue, and that just leaves the groove to cut on the other edge.

With some precision, of course... ;D
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

jdtuttle

QuoteI like that idea, would be ripping a lot of splines though! Thanks, David
Have you done that before?
Yep! Sounds like your off the grid somewhere. You can make the cuts with a router, You can even make a small v detail on the bottom side, but you should make that detail first. If you don't have a table saw to make the splines you can make a jig for your worm drive or any saw you have. Shiplap may work as noted below depending on rafter spacing. But tounge & groove is better.
jim     
Have a great day

dail_h

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woodmills1

I took a few minutes to search for v match tounge and groove cutters on the internet and the tallest I could find would cut 1 3/16".  My grizzly catalogue only has cutters up to 3/4" bore and I would swear it used to list larger ones.  I will check some of my older and other catalogues if I can
James Mills,Lovely wife,collect old tools,vacuuming fool,36 bdft/hr,oak paper cutter,ebonic yooper rapper nauga seller, Blue Ox? its not fast, 2 cat family, LT70,edger, 375 bd ft/hr, we like Bob,free heat,no oil 12 years,big splitter, baked stuffed lobster, still cuttin the logs dere IAM

ljmathias

I seem to recall Woodmaster having T&G for up to 4" stock... and they use routers mounted on their planers for getting the three-side work done.

Lj
LT40, Long tractor with FEL and backhoe, lots of TF tools, beautiful wife of 50 years plus 4 kids, 5 grandsons AND TWO GRANDDAUGHTERS all healthy plus too many ideas and plans and not enough time and energy

ksu_chainsaw

If you are working off-grid on this project, I would look at doing most of the work with a tablesaw- faster cutting speed with less amp draw for cutting the large stuff. 
I would get a good dado head and mill each board with 3 passes- one for the grove, and two for the tongue.  This also will help to reduce the tearout that a large shaper cutter could produce with that much material removed in one pass.

If it was possible, I would make a shiplap joint on the stock, only requiring 2 passes, and the material would still have most of the structural integrity that a tongue and groove would have.

Charles

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