Sliding compound miter saws

OneWithWood · January 28, 2006, 01:02:48 PM

I got good response for the table saw Q so let me ask another saw question.
I have been planning on puting a radial arm saw in the saw barn to cut boards to length and square ends. The current plan is to put the radial arm saw in the middel of a 20 foot bench built into the wall. Recently I have seen sliding compound miter saws that look like I could have a similar saw with a larger capacity ( a 12" compound miter will cut a 4X4 in one go - with my 10" radial arm saw I have to turn it over and make two passes ) and perhaps more versatility.
Anyone have any experience with sliding compound miter saws?

Norm · January 28, 2006, 01:23:44 PM

This is the one I have Robert. http://www2.northerntool.com/product-1/16962.htm

I use it for just what your looking to do and have been very pleased with it. I've had this one for several years and it's done everything I've asked it to with no problems.

Minnesota_boy · January 28, 2006, 01:32:20 PM

Sliding compound mitre saws are a cut off tool, while radial arm saws are more multipurpose. How do you rip a board on the sliding compound saw? Can you make a nice dado with the compound mitre? If you can only have one saw, then the radial is a nice unit. It's a waste of it's potential to only use it for cutoff. If you can have both, you have the world by the tail.

beenthere · January 28, 2006, 01:45:34 PM

I have the DeWalt 12" sliding compound miter, and am very pleased with it. Stays true even after a lot of heavy construction lumber cutting, and was great for mitering trim when that time came in the construction phase.

Recently on a Lions Club project, I used a chop saw with the laser light and was impressed with the extra 'speed' of lining up to the mark to cut. Not sure I will trade up to anything with the laser light, but thought I'd mention it at least.

Along your train of thought, I'm in the process of building a 20' long work bench (actually four 5' benches that will clamp together and are on wheels), also with the thought of having a miter saw along that bench. But am thinking of placing a 10" miter saw on the wall about 12-15" above the bench like a 'shelf'. That way, long pieces can be cut without having to 'clear' the entire workbench off. I saw a pic of that once and thought raising that chop saw to about 4-4½' above the floor and a bit below eye level would be better utilization of the space. Working on getting the wall brackets made now.

Larry · January 28, 2006, 05:36:06 PM

You guys are making me jealous with your fancy saws. Remember me and pigman are on the 10 step withdrawal program. That DeWalt is really a nice looking machine. I have an old Delta...not even compound.

The table makes a lot of difference in ease of use. I built one on rollers and also has sockets so I can plug in an extension for extra length. Wonder iffen one of those fancy DeWalts would fit my table? ;D

pigman · January 29, 2006, 07:36:46 AM

Quote from: Larry on January 28, 2006, 05:36:06 PM
You guys are making me jealous with your fancy saws. Remember me and pigman are on the 10 step withdrawal program.

Yup, couldn't sleep all night thinking about that saw. :( ;D

oakiemac · January 29, 2006, 08:01:21 AM

I just got a radial arm saw because I thought it was more versital then the sliding compound saws. Either one would work for cross cutts.

Minnesota boy- I have been told you can rip with a RAS but I have not tried it yet. How do you go about ripping for the best results?

isassi · January 29, 2006, 09:06:40 AM

I imagine radial arm saws will always be with us, heck, I have 2 of them. But mine haven't been to a job site or even used in 3 years. The power miter saws and of course, the sliding miter, have about killed the RAS in the construction trades. I read somewhere that table saw injuries lead the race in tools to get hurt using, but RAS's are plenty dangerous to the unsuspecting. My table saw with a sliding table will do every practical task I can use my radial for and has no issues on clamping or alignment checks. That said, I found this awsome 1950's vintage Dewalt 12 inch radial that I can't imagine not picking up the phone and telling the guy I want it. Don't know why I want it, but I WANT IT! (asking price $350). :D :D :D

Minnesota_boy · January 29, 2006, 09:19:16 AM

Quote from: oakiemac on January 29, 2006, 08:01:21 AM
Minnesota boy- I have been told you can rip with a RAS but I have not tried it yet. How do you go about ripping for the best results?

I usually use the table saw. :D The radial saw can be pulled out from the fenceand the head rotated. Then you set the width you want to rip, lower the head to slightly less than table height while the saw is running and make a light groove in the table to make sure it will cut all the way through. Put the anti-kickback pawls on and push the material through. Watch your fingers carefully to make sure they never leave your hand.

Norm · January 29, 2006, 09:51:45 AM

A radial arm saw should not be used for ripping, I had an uncle who lost all four fingers doing it. Use a table saw to rip wood with. I use my WM to rip long pieces with, it is pretty acurate. I rip overwidth some and run it through a jointer for final dimension.

isassi · January 29, 2006, 10:17:01 AM

There is an added concern about ripping with a RAS: Due to the cut being made from the top and "sliding " down the table, usually partical board or plywood, you have to push much harder and as a result, probably loose some accuracy of the dimension being held. I have a old Craftsman saw that has the original manuals, ect, and it would leave you to think you can do anything with it, and I would agree, there are many things that can be done on an RAS, but better done on another saw. Sure, you can mount a sanding drum or a router/shaper cutter to it, do dado's, and on and on, and I bet for a once in a great while, it would be fine, but every task I can think of, they can be a hazard to use. The task I used my RAS for is crosscutting only due to the reach, and when still on jobsite, turning the blade backwards for straight cutting vinyl siding. :P

shopteacher · January 29, 2006, 10:23:52 AM

One of the points I teach my students is not to use the RAS for ripping and that it is notorious for kickback when doing so.
I have a Rockwell 12" RAS and a Delta & Makita chop saw, a Makita 1013 slider and an old swing saw. They all work very well.
Onewithwood: If you want something to use for cutoff keep an eyeout for a swingsaw. I think I paid 175.00 for mine. I've seen several on Ebay in the past.

dewwood · January 29, 2006, 11:02:10 AM

OWW,

I have used a compound sliding miter saw for several years and they work great. They are limited to about 12" width of cut, but by flipping wider boards over you can complete the cut. Yes a 12" miter will cut through a 4x4 without problem and you can cut your miters etc also. For several of the reasons mentioned above I do not own a radial arm saw and probably never will. I think Sears tools are good tools for the home hobbyist and occasional woodworker. I have several Sears tools myself. However,for anything approaching comercial use, I would go with a heavier duty tool and also one that is normally a dedicated tool and not a multifunctional tool. A dedicated tool will usually do a better job on whatever it is designed to do. There is an old saying that goes "Jack of all trades and master of none" which pretty well sums up the tool selection process for me. A few extra bucks spent now on a tool that will last for 20 or 30 years or longer is money well spent. In the final analysis everyone has to assess his or her own needs and select the tool that is best for them.

OneWithWood · January 29, 2006, 12:53:32 PM

Once again excellent responses! Thankx 8)

I do not rip on the RAS for all the reasons stated above. I do dado cuts on the table saw for the most part.
Norm, that is just the saw I have in mind

Dewey, I hear what you are saying about single purpose equipment.

Decisions, decisions. . . What to do?

Part-time, full-time . . . dive in or just wade around for a bit . . . :

One things for certain there are new ~~toys~~, er, tools, yeah that's it, tools in my future.

Larry and Bob, I went through that ten stepper. Guess what, the last step is to reimmerse yourself in ~~toys~~, I mean tools

There is no known cure so you just ride it out and enjoy 8) :

mur · January 29, 2006, 02:36:11 PM

I use two Makita compound slides, both are excellent saws. I "chop" before molding (dirty ends and gross defects) and then again after molding to take out defect and cut to length. The Makitas have been flawless. I have a friend who uses DeWalt chop saws and is very happy with them.

Max sawdust · January 29, 2006, 08:04:34 PM

OWW,
Absolutly love my Delta sliding compound. Gotta get a sliding compound ;D RAS are great, but sliding compounds are not too expensive and very handy.
Max

Skip · January 29, 2006, 08:16:33 PM

I just saw a 10 inch sliding compound with laser at Lowe's for $199.00 it was an off brand ,but what the heck for that money it would be worth a try. ;)

DanG · January 30, 2006, 09:24:35 AM

Yesterday, I was flipping through a Harbor Freight catalog and spied a Central Machinery 12" slider with laser for $259. I'm seriously tempted! Then, on another page, they had the exact same tool, same number and all, for $199. ??? Now I can't figure out which one of'em ta get. Ya get what ya pay for, ya know. :

Kevin_H. · January 30, 2006, 09:51:31 AM

We have two of the 12" dewalt compound saws and the 10" Delta, We have had good luck with all of them, and we use them well beyond there intentions.

Our saws get clamped on and run for hours at a time, The dewalts are easy to change the brushes on, and when something does go wrong we take it to the dewalt store and they rebuilt it for a fraction of a new one.

Engineer · January 30, 2006, 10:17:18 AM

Don't have much use for radial arm saws. They function well as a cutoff machine but are too danG finicky to set up accurately for ripping, dadoing and anything else you want to try. Also I think they're dangerous, especially used for ripping. I have a Bosch 10" slider, and I can cut 90% of what I need cut with it. The other 10% I pull out the chain saw, the circular saw with straightedge, or the Sawzall. I use a table saw for ripping and a router for dados. A good use for a RAS would be setting it up as you describe, maybe a 12" or larger machine (I'd like a 16" RAS) set up in the middle of a long bench, strictly for cuts to rough length.

If I were buying a 'new' SCMS right now, I'd be flipping a coin for the Hitachi 12" SCMS or the Bosch 12" SCMS. I don't like yeller tools. The Ridgid would also be a contender, but I have a lot more blue and green tools that I like and they are reliable.

Burlkraft · January 30, 2006, 02:30:13 PM

I use a 1212 Makita. It has been the only SCMS that I have used that came dead on out of the box. I have one for construction lumber and one that I use just for trim. The trim saw has never let me down. If I had it to do over again I would get a Delta for the construction lumber. I had a few yeller ones and the motors did not last and I was always tinkering to keep them at an honest 45*

My 45 cents ;) ;) ;)

beenthere · January 30, 2006, 03:26:52 PM

My 'yeller' ones were dead-on out of the box, and have stayed dead-on (was surprised after the rough construction phase that it stayed true on the miter cuts through the panelling and trim phase as well), and have had no motor problems with either the 12 scms or the 10" miter saw. Suspect all can have minor problems, and I think all tools need to be checked for adjustment now and then, and for sure before each demanding project. Main thing is that the tools have the capability of fine tuning. That would be my concern for the cheaper knock-outs mentioned.
Did do a brush upgrade on the 12". Good as new and being used in building a second home by my son.

TexasTimbers · January 30, 2006, 04:36:13 PM

FWIW, for the purpose you are asking I'd go with the Dual Sliding Compound Miter saw. I have a radial and don't ever use it. Between the table saw and DSCM I can't think of why you'd need a radial. I don'tlike them. They are dangerous too.
You want a dual slider too. Trust me on this one it is worth the extra dough and you'll find it out the first time you have a stack of boards that need attention on both ends it save a lot of time and trouble.
I have a makita with single axis bevel but it too gets little use these days because the green machine is the way to go.

D._Frederick · January 30, 2006, 05:41:57 PM

I bought one of the first power miter saw that Delta made in 1975, for what it cost, it was indexed right on the nutts. You could cut the miters for a picture frame and with a little sanding have no air gaps

The only problem is it has a cog belt drive that has a short life, new belt is over twenty $ now. When the belt that is on it breaks, it going in the junk pile. I see that certain makes still use the cog belt drive, I would look for a saw with a gear drive.

If you buy a RAS that cost more than a table saw (over $2000) you will find that they can be adjusted for 45 and 90 degree settings, they will cut just as accurate as the compound miter saws, and have a lot more power. I have ripped a lot of 4 x 8 sheets of plywood and never have a problem and still have all my fingers.

Ironwood · January 30, 2006, 07:59:53 PM

used RAS are currently really cheap and can't be beat for rough cutting boards to lenth, especially lumber yard style. CSMS are great for precision but not cutting the heavy stuff (2-6"). RAS are limited but will always have a place in my operation. My High school principle had lost four of his fingertips as well to a RAS ripping boards. Those stumps were a wicked weapon to get your attention when he tapped you in the chest. Reid