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20’ Open side container kiln

Started by Geeg, October 20, 2015, 03:19:36 AM

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Geeg

Anyone using a 20' Open side container as a kiln?. The reason that I like this type is that you don't need a track system to load and unload. You might be able to get 1800-1900bf per load which is a good size for me and if I need more, just build another unit?

Was thinking of spray foam the underside and 2" amvic foil foam sealed interior and sealed floor and add on Nyle 200M

Any thoughts out there?

Here is a pic of one, it opens the full width.

Retired Airbus 380 Captain. Timberking 2200,  Kioti RX6010PC,  Nyle Kiln KD250, Polaris WV850

Ljohnsaw

Wow, didn't know there was such a beast!  And it opens on the end as well.  Must be pretty pricey, though.  If I were to make a kiln, I think I'd go for that design of a container for the reasons you mentioned.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Glenn1

Since it's maximum width is 20', what is the opening of the doors.  Looks like you can only put one load of 8'-10' boards thru the doors.  Please correct me if I am wrong.  Otherwise, It looks very practical.
Vacutherm IDry, Nyle 53 Kiln, New Holland Skid Steer, Kaufman Gooseneck Trailer, Whitney 32A Planer

YellowHammer

Just remember that the shipping container is made of Corten or "weathering" steel, and is intentionally designed to passivate or rust in a saltwater or otherwise corrosive environment.  Many containers are only designed for a 5 year service life, which is a long time for a shipping container, but a short time for a kiln.  Not saying they won't last longer, but in the extremely corrosive environment of a kiln, it should be a consideration.  So, according to the guys at Nyle, as well as several othe posts on this forum, unless the surface is extremely well protected, it will rust out in a few years.  It was a major consideration for me, so I went with a reefer, made of stainless steel and aluminum. 
Here is a reply to a topic by Don Lewis, Production/Operations Manager of Nyle
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,6677.msg93201.html#msg93201
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: Glenn1 on October 20, 2015, 08:55:31 PM
Since it's maximum width is 20', what is the opening of the doors.  Looks like you can only put one load of 8'-10' boards thru the doors.  Please correct me if I am wrong.  Otherwise, It looks very practical.

Look at it again.  The little panels are actually doors that the big doors are attached to.  It opens up full width.

Quote from: YellowHammer on October 20, 2015, 10:44:10 PM
Just remember that the shipping container is made of Corten or "weathering" steel, and is intentionally designed to passivate or rust in a saltwater or otherwise corrosive environment.  Many containers are only designed for a 5 year service life, which is a long time for a shipping container, but a short time for a kiln.  Not saying they won't last longer, but in the extremely corrosive environment of a kiln, it should be a consideration.  So, according to the guys at Nyle, as well as several othe posts on this forum, unless the surface is extremely well protected, it will rust out in a few years.  It was a major consideration for me, so I went with a reefer, made of stainless steel and aluminum. 
Here is a reply to a topic by Don Lewis, Production/Operations Manager of Nyle
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,6677.msg93201.html#msg93201

Would it work to spray the interior with a good epoxy paint (like pool paint) before adding insulation and finishing the interior?
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Geeg

Quote from: Glenn1 on October 20, 2015, 08:55:31 PM
Since it's maximum width is 20', what is the opening of the doors.  Looks like you can only put one load of 8'-10' boards thru the doors.  Please correct me if I am wrong.  Otherwise, It looks very practical.

Hi Glenn, here is the door opening dimensions width 18'8" and height is  7'1" and another pic of a unit.



Quote from: YellowHammer on October 20, 2015, 10:44:10 PM
Just remember that the shipping container is made of Corten or "weathering" steel, and is intentionally designed to passivate or rust in a saltwater or otherwise corrosive environment.  Many containers are only designed for a 5 year service life, which is a long time for a shipping container, but a short time for a kiln.  Not saying they won't last longer, but in the extremely corrosive environment of a kiln, it should be a consideration.  So, according to the guys at Nyle, as well as several othe posts on this forum, unless the surface is extremely well protected, it will rust out in a few years.  It was a major consideration for me, so I went with a reefer, made of stainless steel and aluminum. 
Here is a reply to a topic by Don Lewis, Production/Operations Manager of Nyle
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,6677.msg93201.html#msg93201

Good info YellowHammer and I may need to alter my plan a little. Where there is a will, there is a way! (old sayin)
Retired Airbus 380 Captain. Timberking 2200,  Kioti RX6010PC,  Nyle Kiln KD250, Polaris WV850

Geeg

YellowHammer,

It was your build that really got me to thinking about building a kiln from one of these units. I had plans on building a unit from scratch but after seeing yours I decided to go this route. I just need to ironing the kinks out  ;D

Oh and BTW, I was really impressed with your build, well done!

Geeg
Retired Airbus 380 Captain. Timberking 2200,  Kioti RX6010PC,  Nyle Kiln KD250, Polaris WV850

Geeg

Not sure if anyone has heard of this but did some research and found that RUST GRIP may be the answer, can even spray it on the wood floor to protect.  http://www.spicoatings.com/products_solutions/rust_grip
Retired Airbus 380 Captain. Timberking 2200,  Kioti RX6010PC,  Nyle Kiln KD250, Polaris WV850

longtime lurker

Marine spec paint system... much red oxide followed by marine 2 pack epoxy... stops ships rusting.

I've been eyeing off the same style of container for the same job. :D
The quickest way to make a million dollars with a sawmill is to start with two million.

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

Such a paint system works only if there is a corrosive environment on only one side.  So, if you coat the interior, do not coat the exterior.  So, you will have to put the container inside a building.  The reason is that if you get a small hole in the coating when both sides are covered (like when a piece of lumber scrapes it), then moisture will get in but will be unable to get out.  It is called the envelop effect.  Once moisture gets between the two coatings, it will corrode.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

longtime lurker

Quote from: GeneWengert-WoodDoc on October 21, 2015, 07:22:33 AM
Such a paint system works only if there is a corrosive environment on only one side.  So, if you coat the interior, do not coat the exterior.  So, you will have to put the container inside a building.  The reason is that if you get a small hole in the coating when both sides are covered (like when a piece of lumber scrapes it), then moisture will get in but will be unable to get out.  It is called the envelop effect.  Once moisture gets between the two coatings, it will corrode.

Respectfully Gene, I think we're on different pages. I'm talking about a paint system similar to that used on work boats - barges, tugs, fishing boats etc. all steel boats eventually die of rust, and they all rust from the inside out because of the difficulty of accessing the interior paint system for repair once in commission. But that takes ( provided a good initial paint job is applied ) 20 years or more.

The kind of system I'm referring too would have an initial epoxy primer onto shot blasted steel, followed by 3 to 4 coats of high build epoxy to a depth of around 16 mil DFT... About 0.016"...followed by a top coat. It's not flaky stuff... It's designed to take being rubbed against wharfs etc.

I'd follow that up with Mascoat DTM or similar mastic type insulation. While I know closed cell foams are the norm with kilns, I'm also aware that closed cell foam is poorly regarded in the commercial marine sector because even though it's "closed cell" it still takes up moisture and leads to rust quicker.

Also to factor in is that being a side loaded kiln I can forklift in using slippers straight onto wood bearers so shouldn't ever really break the paint anyway. My stickers are allways on the same spacing so the bearers can be permanently fixed.

I don't mean to be argumentative, but I think that while the broad operating parameters between a kiln and a commercial vessel are different that the research into corrosion prevention in the marine sector far outweighs that put into kiln corrosion control. Maybe it won't work ( and I've never had a problem with sharing my failures) but I feel that if I can trust my life to steel sitting in salt water then I can gamble the cost of a kiln chamber. Worst comes to the worst and it fails I'll just blast it all off and try a more conventional approach.

It's those door seals (on the container sides) that I don't like.
The quickest way to make a million dollars with a sawmill is to start with two million.

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

The coating itself is just fine.  I do not discount that.

My concern is the accidental hole.  I believe there is likelihood that it will get a small hole.  Ships have bilge pumps.  You will have hinges, screw holes, etc. that could be an entry way.  You will have a joint between the walls and between the roof and wall.  You have a lintel for the door.  The temperature of the wall will range from below freezing to over 150F and with that range of temperature will come expansion and contraction.  Such movement is likely to open a small hole. 

The hole itself is not much of an issue if the coating is only on one side.  The problem occurs when both inside and outside are coated, so when the moisture gets into the wall, it cannot get out.  Both the interior and exterior will be very humid at times. 

Bob Little of the Univ of TN did an big study on various coatings for kilns.  I do not know how many coatings he used but there were a lot and his work showed this effect indeed.

So, in a kiln we typically include weep holes to drain moisture that accidentally gets in the walls.  This helps some, but deterioration is an issue even with excellent coatings.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

crazy

Quote from: Geeg on October 20, 2015, 11:27:33 PM
Quote from: Glenn1 on October 20, 2015, 08:55:31 PM
Since it's maximum width is 20', what is the opening of the doors.  Looks like you can only put one load of 8'-10' boards thru the doors.  Please correct me if I am wrong.  Otherwise, It looks very practical.

Hi Glenn, here is the door opening dimensions width 18'8" and height is  7'1" and another pic of a unit.



Quote from: YellowHammer on October 20, 2015, 10:44:10 PM
Just remember that the shipping container is made of Corten or "weathering" steel, and is intentionally designed to passivate or rust in a saltwater or otherwise corrosive environment.  Many containers are only designed for a 5 year service life, which is a long time for a shipping container, but a short time for a kiln.  Not saying they won't last longer, but in the extremely corrosive environment of a kiln, it should be a consideration.  So, according to the guys at Nyle, as well as several othe posts on this forum, unless the surface is extremely well protected, it will rust out in a few years.  It was a major consideration for me, so I went with a reefer, made of stainless steel and aluminum. 
Here is a reply to a topic by Don Lewis, Production/Operations Manager of Nyle
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,6677.msg93201.html#msg93201

Good info YellowHammer and I may need to alter my plan a little. Where there is a will, there is a way! (old sayin)

What kind of price did you get on one of those with that side doors.  Best price I got was about $6,000.  I was wondering about a kiln made from a steel container using solar to heat it. 

Geeg

Quote from: crazy on July 25, 2016, 12:17:09 AM


What kind of price did you get on one of those with that side doors.  Best price I got was about $6,000.  I was wondering about a kiln made from a steel container using solar to heat it.

Hi Crazy,

I got basically the same price, quite expensive
Retired Airbus 380 Captain. Timberking 2200,  Kioti RX6010PC,  Nyle Kiln KD250, Polaris WV850

crazy

Yes but 6k in your dollars is $4.5 in USD.

Geeg

Container finally arrived. 



Picked up the nyle kiln last week. lots of work to be done.
Retired Airbus 380 Captain. Timberking 2200,  Kioti RX6010PC,  Nyle Kiln KD250, Polaris WV850

4x4American

I didn't know they made those.  Thats pretty awesome.  How do they unload it off the truck?  And is that a company that sells them to individuals? 
Boy, back in my day..

bucknwfl

Keep us posted as things progress

Thanks

Buck
If it was easy everybody would be doing it

Geeg

Quote from: 4x4American on June 02, 2017, 07:28:27 PM
I didn't know they made those.  Thats pretty awesome.  How do they unload it off the truck?  And is that a company that sells them to individuals?

They used a tilt and slide bed on the truck. You can get these containers from any container company.

Got to work on the fans, sealed the screw heads with silicone. Will hang the unit with 1/2" galvanized bolts.





Retired Airbus 380 Captain. Timberking 2200,  Kioti RX6010PC,  Nyle Kiln KD250, Polaris WV850

DDW_OR

Like the open side, and still has double doors on one end?

I have thought of using an outdoor wood boiler for the heat source.
"let the machines do the work"

Tree Dan

Nice looking container.
What if you straped the walls with galv. screws
Then hire a guy to spray foam the insulation in.
Then screw 3/8 plywood on the strapping for your interior walls.
I have that blue spay foam in my shop, Its spayed on the steel siding from the inside, and it works great.
Your going to have a great kiln...looking good!
Have fun.
Dan
Wood Mizer LT40HD, Kubota KX71, New Holland LS150, Case TR270
6400 John Deere/with loader,General 20" planer, Stihl 880, Stihl 361, Dolmar 460, Husqvarna 50  and a few shovels,
60" and 30" Log Rite cant hooks, 2 home built Tree Spades, Homemade log splitter

Geeg

Hi Dan My plan is to paint the interior with this rust paint http://eaglecoatings.net/content/rustgrip.htm and then line the container with amvic 2" foam insulation. The base was sprayed with 4" foam.

Got the vents installed.







Retired Airbus 380 Captain. Timberking 2200,  Kioti RX6010PC,  Nyle Kiln KD250, Polaris WV850

Geeg

Did some more work on the kiln today. Mounted the box and got some electrical component installed, holes drilled (what a pain). Had to rewire the control box as the wires all came out the rear and it would not fit into the black box so I spent a couple of hours rerouteing them through the sides of the enclosure. Dug trench to lay the wire, didn't get a shot of that. did the masking and now ready to paint.





Retired Airbus 380 Captain. Timberking 2200,  Kioti RX6010PC,  Nyle Kiln KD250, Polaris WV850

Geeg

Paint went on well, used a HVLP Fuji and applied two heavy coats. I also managed to get the foam on the ceiling and walls and used some strong adhesive.





Retired Airbus 380 Captain. Timberking 2200,  Kioti RX6010PC,  Nyle Kiln KD250, Polaris WV850

Geeg

Was able to finish off the kiln over the last couple of days. I just need to have the electrical hooked up by a professional. Used the tractor to mount the fans, was a tight fit, had 1/8" clearance on each side of the fan wall. Once it was all lined up, I lifted the forks till the bolts made contact with the foam to show me were to drill the holes to mount.




Pre drill the holes with a small bit, then climbed up top to finish the job. Was quite easy and fast.


Fan wall lifted to final position and held in order to secure. Used silicone doughnuts like YellowHammer used to cut down on any vibration. Finished
sealing the bolt and nuts with silicone.




The fan wall installed.


Placed the Kiln unit into the container and hooked up the electrical connections.




There is 5 tie-down rings on the floor, I am hoping that I could use these instead of putting something heavy on top of the stack, should save some space for extra wood?

Any comments or feedback, much appreciated.
Cheers
Retired Airbus 380 Captain. Timberking 2200,  Kioti RX6010PC,  Nyle Kiln KD250, Polaris WV850

ChugiakTinkerer

Looks like it could do double duty as a meat locker and butcher shop come late deer season.

Looks sharp, I am jealous.   ;D
Woodland Mills HM130

rasman57

That is a quality prepared project that will serve you well.   Nothing as good as doing it yourself with a good plan and the right gear.  Good stuff.

DDW_OR

Quote from: ChugiakTinkerer on June 15, 2017, 06:59:08 PM
Looks like it could do double duty as a meat locker and butcher shop come late deer season.

Looks sharp, I am jealous.   ;D

or a serious SMOKER  8)  food6
"let the machines do the work"

YellowHammer

That looks great. 8)  Its really coming along.

I would highly recommend installing a protective structure around the kiln unit to keep boards from falling on it or bumping it when loading since it is a front loader.  It needs to protect against loading the pallets of lumber too far in the chamber and accidently bumping the unit.  It is critical to protect the kiln from any damage or impacts because of the fragility of the refrigeration system.  In my other kiln, I assembled a sturdy metal shelving unit around the kiln to serve as a metal frame bumper.
   
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

BigZ La


Geeg

Thanks for the accolades and feedback guys, YellowHammer, I will definitely weld up a cage for the kiln unit, good thinking!!

Will probably get it running sometime in Sept, had to go back to work to pay for it  ;D, just a little over budget.
Retired Airbus 380 Captain. Timberking 2200,  Kioti RX6010PC,  Nyle Kiln KD250, Polaris WV850

bucknwfl

Looks great, very clean set up and looks user friendly

Thanks

Buck
If it was easy everybody would be doing it

plantman

Wow, I like the sound of that but it must be very pricey. How about just spraying the metal down with diesel fuel ? Ha ! Or simply getting some galvanized paint ?

Quote from: Geeg on October 21, 2015, 03:08:34 AM
Not sure if anyone has heard of this but did some research and found that RUST GRIP may be the answer, can even spray it on the wood floor to protect.  http://www.spicoatings.com/products_solutions/rust_grip

plantman


Geeg

Update on the kiln, we have run a bunch of loads through it and am very happy with the results. Here is a Vid on YouTube with a customers load that we put through that was air dried for a couple of years. The wood was Elm and Ash.

https://youtu.be/UXYXxlhYbSo
Retired Airbus 380 Captain. Timberking 2200,  Kioti RX6010PC,  Nyle Kiln KD250, Polaris WV850

K-Guy

Geeg
Take a look at the Nyle recommendations for a 20 ft container kiln on our website. We recommend 5 fans because a shipping container doesn't allow for the best airflow. ;D
Nyle Service Dept.
A common mistake people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.
- D. Adams

Geeg

Thanks for the info. You use 9'6" containers?
Retired Airbus 380 Captain. Timberking 2200,  Kioti RX6010PC,  Nyle Kiln KD250, Polaris WV850

K-Guy

Hi Geeg
Yes but insulated. Call me tomorrow about your power vent install.
800-777-6953 Ext 212
Nyle Service Dept.
A common mistake people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.
- D. Adams

Geeg

In transit, if not tomorrow then monday.
Retired Airbus 380 Captain. Timberking 2200,  Kioti RX6010PC,  Nyle Kiln KD250, Polaris WV850

charles mann

Looking at doing the same thing, only mine is a front load conex. How hot does it have to dry the wood? 

Geeg, what type of fans did you use? Did you seal up the factory vent holes, or cut them out to put in your bigger vents? I had started on a wood frame structure to use as a solar kiln, but i didnt measure twice before cutting and my loading opening is a bit to narrow to get some of my slabs in, so i scratched that idea and bout 2 20' containers, 1 as a kiln, the other as my work shop.

Some of yaw mentioned enclosing the container. To what extent are yaw reffering to, as enclosing it? A box around a box? Would a roof above it, walled in behind it and an awning off to 1 side be sufficient? 

I set the containers up close to my power pole, then sepperated them 16' apart, to give me some kind of a work space for metal fabbing projects. I am going to put a roof over both containers, about 10-12" from the container roof, with a 1" in 8' drop for water shedding. I will evetually wall the back side in and add a 20' awning off the kiln container side. Since that will require welding, i think it would be best to get the roof on, then measure for the awning and go ahead and weld the steel to the container before putting up insulation. 

Temple, Tx
Fire Fighting and Heavy Lift Helicopter Mech
Helicopter and Fixed Wing Pilot

Geeg

Quote from: charles mann on September 02, 2018, 05:16:32 PM
Looking at doing the same thing, only mine is a front load conex. How hot does it have to dry the wood?

Geeg, what type of fans did you use? Did you seal up the factory vent holes, or cut them out to put in your bigger vents? I had started on a wood frame structure to use as a solar kiln, but i didnt measure twice before cutting and my loading opening is a bit to narrow to get some of my slabs in, so i scratched that idea and bout 2 20' containers, 1 as a kiln, the other as my work shop.

Some of yaw mentioned enclosing the container. To what extent are yaw reffering to, as enclosing it? A box around a box? Would a roof above it, walled in behind it and an awning off to 1 side be sufficient?

I set the containers up close to my power pole, then sepperated them 16' apart, to give me some kind of a work space for metal fabbing projects. I am going to put a roof over both containers, about 10-12" from the container roof, with a 1" in 8' drop for water shedding. I will evetually wall the back side in and add a 20' awning off the kiln container side. Since that will require welding, i think it would be best to get the roof on, then measure for the awning and go ahead and weld the steel to the container before putting up insulation.
The kiln can get as high as about 150F so to dry the temp does not go above 120-125 and then when the load is complete, we bump it up to 140-150 to kill the bugs and for the equalization process.
The fans are factory fans, The factory vent holes were covered up by the insulation that was glued to the walls.
Good luck with your build.
Geeg
Retired Airbus 380 Captain. Timberking 2200,  Kioti RX6010PC,  Nyle Kiln KD250, Polaris WV850

Crusarius

Get a big enough truss over the containers to give you the awning without having to do anymore framing. Then you do not need a column line or header if you want to have your mill under the awning.

The truss will have to be deigned for that kind of loading.

charles mann

Quote from: Crusarius on September 04, 2018, 12:36:13 PM
Get a big enough truss over the containers to give you the awning without having to do anymore framing. Then you do not need a column line or header if you want to have your mill under the awning.

The truss will have to be deigned for that kind of loading.
Already bought the 2 i beams, 4" sq tubing for legs between conex and i beams, 8" perlin and the R panel. I was thinking about putting the mill under it, but with it being 5' from the house, and my log bed will extend into our driveway. Plus i wanna place to park my tck and the wife wants to be able get her jeep under cover. Eventually im gonna rebuild the porch and make a covered walkway from awning to porch so unload groceries in the rain, wont be an olympic swimming event. At most from my intended place for my mill, it'll only be at most 75' from mill to kiln. Saw half a tree, take it over to kiln on tractor, mill the other half, stack it on top of first half and roll the wood into the kiln. Its simple in my head, but in reality, doing it all by myself, will make a bit more challenging. 
Temple, Tx
Fire Fighting and Heavy Lift Helicopter Mech
Helicopter and Fixed Wing Pilot

BlackberryPines

How has the kiln held up?  I'm looking at building the same setup.  Anything you would recommend doing different?
-LT50 Wide, Cat 252, Stihl 461 & 261

Geeg

The kiln looks like it did the day I finished it. There is no rust or corrosion I believe because of the rust grip. 

The things that I did after was a game changer. I installed an additional 2 fans so 4 fans total to get better uniform air flow and the second thing I did was to spray an additional 2 inches of closed cell foam to increase the R value to around 25.

I also installed a Chinese diesel heater (8kw) to preheat the kiln to get it above the 80 degrees so that the compressor would come on and add to the heat supply, once the kiln gets up to temp, I shut the heater off and the load keeps hot with just the compressor running, this saves on electricity.
Retired Airbus 380 Captain. Timberking 2200,  Kioti RX6010PC,  Nyle Kiln KD250, Polaris WV850

BlackberryPines

Thanks for the feedback.  I figured I might need 2 more fans.  I'll be getting those on the way now.

Did you do anything to insulate the floor?  I was thinking of tipping it on its side and spraying foam on the bottom.
-LT50 Wide, Cat 252, Stihl 461 & 261

DDW_OR

Quote from: Geeg on June 13, 2017, 05:57:21 AM

are you going to add some protection for the foam insulation. i can see them getting damaged

also the video is dead
"let the machines do the work"

Geeg

Quote from: BlackberryPines on May 23, 2023, 09:42:25 AM
Thanks for the feedback.  I figured I might need 2 more fans.  I'll be getting those on the way now.

Did you do anything to insulate the floor?  I was thinking of tipping it on its side and spraying foam on the bottom.
When I bought the container, the company included a sprayed bottom with closed cell foam, not sure what the r value is.
Retired Airbus 380 Captain. Timberking 2200,  Kioti RX6010PC,  Nyle Kiln KD250, Polaris WV850

Geeg

Quote from: DDW_OR on May 23, 2023, 11:50:21 AM
are you going to add some protection for the foam insulation. i can see them getting damaged
also the video is dead
I did not add any protection to the foam, there is a couple dents and bruises but as long as you are careful loading and unloading, I have not had any issues, the foam is quite hard just by itself and seams to lock everything together.
Not sure what happened to the vid, will have to ask the wife.
Retired Airbus 380 Captain. Timberking 2200,  Kioti RX6010PC,  Nyle Kiln KD250, Polaris WV850

DDW_OR

Quote from: Geeg on May 24, 2023, 07:15:49 AM
Quote from: DDW_OR on May 23, 2023, 11:50:21 AM
are you going to add some protection for the foam insulation. i can see them getting damaged
also the video is dead
I did not add any protection to the foam, there is a couple dents and bruises but as long as you are careful loading and unloading,
you have a mill. you have built a Very good kiln.
an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure
"let the machines do the work"

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