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Bms250 oil pump

Started by Chaser357, February 22, 2019, 06:36:08 PM

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Chaser357

Just got my new sharpener set up last week and have probably sharpened 5 blades.   I was sharpening a blade this evening and pump stopped pumping oil.   It sounds like it is still working but not pumping.   I have the magnets around it to catch metal and the temperature is not an issue.   It was working fine at the beginning of the cycle.   I did not use the oil from woodmizer and used hydraulic oil.  Could this have burned up my pump?   Any other suggestions?

terrifictimbersllc

Maybe it just lost its prime?
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

PAmizerman

I would get in contact with woodmizer. 
It should still be under warranty unless they don't cover for not using their approved oil
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123maxbars

what is the temp in your shop?
I have the same sharpener, the pump sometimes fails or stops working in cold shops. I have to turn the heat on in the shop on cold days and keep the machine close to my propane heater. I called woodmizer whom confirmed this problem with colder weather. 
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Chaser357

Yeah it was about 75 degrees here today.   I've noticed it is slow to pump when cold but that was not the issue today.   It was pumping good when I started then I closed the hood to let it do it's thing and then it wasn't pumping next time I opened it.   Thought it might be the oil level so I added some but it won't pump at all.   Just sits there and hums.  Guess I will call WM Monday.   Been on the phone with them two or three hours this week trying to get my new setter fixed.  Turns out the motor was bad and the tooth counter doesn't work either.   They are sending new parts but it is just frustrating to have all these problems with brand new expensive machines. 

terrifictimbersllc

When it's cold like below 60 or so I put a 25w soldering iron in the oil pan and that takes care of cold oil.

The pump will not always self prime. Shake it back and forth sideways in the oil until you see the oil start to rise in the tube. Or disconnect the tube from the oil block and suck oil into the pump.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

Southside

Quote from: Chaser357 on February 22, 2019, 08:27:24 PMTurns out the motor was bad and the tooth counter doesn't work either


You don't by chance have it plugged into a GFCI outlet do you?
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Chaser357

Quote from: terrifictimbersllc on February 22, 2019, 08:37:37 PM
When it's cold like below 60 or so I put a 25w soldering iron in the oil pan and that takes care of cold oil.

The pump will not always self prime. Shake it back and forth sideways in the oil until you see the oil start to rise in the tube. Or disconnect the tube from the oil block and suck oil into the pump.

I will try to prime it tomorrow thanks

Chaser357

Quote from: Southside logger on February 22, 2019, 08:42:18 PM
Quote from: Chaser357 on February 22, 2019, 08:27:24 PMTurns out the motor was bad and the tooth counter doesn't work either


You don't by chance have it plugged into a GFCI outlet do you?

No it has power to it.   Was on the phone with Mike from WM for a LONG time and we took voltage readings of everything while running.   The motor will work a second then cut off.  Work a second then cutoff.   He initially thought it was the power converter but determined the motor was bad.   Guess it was made on a Friday or Monday.   Btw the customer service is great and I know you can get bad parts but it is still frustrating.  Nothing to do but be patient and get it fixed. 

Southside

I had a bad counter as well.  Thought I had a bad motor too but the issue ended up being that I was using a GFCI outlet.  Agree that the customer service is excellent.  
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

gmmills

  Take the aluminum oiler shoe off and check for plugged outlet holes. These holes are small will plug up occasionally. The fact that you lost oil flow while sharpening leads me to believe you have a restriction in the oil circuit. If the holes in the shoe are not plugged, pull the pump up and check the inlet screen. The inlet screen can be removed by taking the outlet fitting off. Once the screen is removed, you have direct access to the impeller housing. Turn the pump switch on and see if the impeller is turning. If so, the pump itself is fine. You will have to re prime after removing from oil. The fact that the pump is humming leads me to believe there is an obstruction in the oil outlet circuit.   

   As long as the oil level is kept at least half way up the pump housing, when immersed, it is very rare for the pump to lose prime other than removing the pump from below oil level.   
Custom sawing full-time since 2000. 
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Chaser357

Thanks I will check those things for sure.   So I need to have the oil way over the screen on the bottom?  I just had it about even with the top of the screen.  I'm thinking it may have run low on oil and lost prime now.   It was pumping a lot faster today as warm as it was and may have been pumping faster than it was running back in the pan.  So it may have sucked air.   What exactly is the process to re prime it?   Just take the hose off the oiler block and fill it?

terrifictimbersllc

That would work too. Yes oil above black screen. Oil should be 1 to1-1/2. " below top of pan or just to  bottom of chain/gears. You may be trying to run with too little oil in pan. My pump loses prime sometimes when I lift it out to clean the tray/magnets. I shake it sideways under the oil to get it going again, the hose gets hard and if difficult to get off of block connection.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

Chaser357

Ok thanks a lot to everyone.   I don't think I have enough oil in.  It was cold and pumping slow the first few blades I did and I guess it wasn't pumping fast enough to pull the level in the pan down much.   I will add oil and re prime the pump.   

PA_Walnut

I have had some issues with my BMS/BMT sharpener and setter also...

Sharpener:
Stopped working the advance-cam. Motor was running, just no movement. Took the motor off the back and discovered that the pin on the shaft was not installed correctly, and fell off. When looking-up the part# spec in the book, I discovered the the pin was short (not as long as the one in the book), which contributed to the failure. Was able to remedy.

Pump works fine, but I discovered that it needs to be full. Filled mine up over the chain, but using food-grade mineral oil, which stays fairly fluid even in colder temps (my mill shed is heated, so never drops below 45°). It also has no smell and is not a worry when handling. Leaves a nice coating on blade.

Setter:
Blade index arm mechanism set too far back so that the small bar that pushes the teeth was struggling to contact due to the side hitting blade. No apparent adjustment, so I was able to tweek it enough to make it work, but still not ideal.

The setter block assemblies were EXTREMELY tight. So difficult to turn that one turned the knob off the shaft, which is simply threaded on, and glued with lock tight. I cleaned it up and reattached with purple lock-tite, and removed the 4 screws off the top, taking the actual setter block out, cleaning it up (appeared to be a minimal amount of sticky grease in there) and lubed with good, synthetic grease. Works better, but not great. Next step is to take .001 or two off the block and see if it will move easier. Don't care to fight with it, since small adjustments are necessary.

I realize that these are not huge deal issues, but for machines that are costly, should not have to do. The hours I spent fixing them are hours that I could have been sharpening or sawing.  :-\
I own my own small piece of the world on an 8 acre plot on the side of a mountain with walnut, hickory, ash and spruce.
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Chaser357

My setter blocks were also extremely tight.   One of the knobs turned also.   Didn't have any loctite and was so tired of dealing with it I just welded the knob to the threaded rod.   It is still impossible to turn by hand so I have to adjust that one with channel locks.  Maybe WM will deal with these issues.   My index arm was also out of wack. 

Chaser357

Update on the pump.   Took the fitting and screen off and the impeller is not turning.  Any way using hydraulic oil could have caused this or just a faulty pump?

Chaser357

Another update.   Spun the impeller by hand and it started worked.   She is pumping again for now.   

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