Just put a deposit on a new mill .
Lt40 35hd25 with debarker
That's if the financing go through .
I might have it before the project.
Wow. That's great news. Congratulations.
Thanks YH
I have a family member investing in helping me out till I get my health right.
Awesome choice Bruno!!! Whoo Hoo!!!
you won't be sorry you got hydraulics
Jim Rogers
I placed my deposit with Marty Parson at the Pa branch
Sweet, You guys need to form a club. The NEW WM Club.
Congratulations my friend. This is going to be a vast improvement and should be a big help toward taking some of the load off of your knees. thumbs-up
Awesome Bruno. Happy for you.
smiley_thumbsup
Congratulations on the new mill, Bruno. 8) Even if it's not there for the project weekend, I will come over to see it as soon as it's there. Maybe even help you run it for a day. :)
Oliver
8)
I have never used set works
How does it work ?
I might need a class
Did you get Simple Set or Accuset 2?
I think it's simple set
I have only had simpleton set :D
Simple Set is like it says, pretty simple😊 If it works like my old "Setworks" on my 97 Super (which I'm pretty sure it does) it measures down from the current saw setting. Mine has 4 presets. So say preset 1 is for 4/4. Your head is at 10", you hit preset 1, and then tap the lever to lower the head. The head will automatically drop down to 8 7/8" (because you preprogrammed your kerf😊). Saw through, raise the head to clear the cant and gig back. Now you just tap down again. It will automatically drop from 8 7/8" down another 1 1/8" to 6 3/4". It's handy, and saved me time in two ways. First, when you're making opening cuts, not having to do any math in your head to drop down and get a certain board thickness by simply pressing a button. Also, on my Super the head up/down is really fast. Too fast when you are trying to hit a target manually! With the setworks, while you're gigging back, as soon as you clear the cant you just tap the down control and the head drops to the next cut before you've even got the head stopped and ready to go forward. Whereas, doing it manually I land on the target about 1 time out of 10🙄 The shortcoming of the Setworks program was it doesn't measure relative to the bed, only to the head position where it was activated. So when sawing a cant to the bed, if you don't start at the right thickness, you end up with a thick or thin board on the bottom. I hope my complicated description of Simple Set didn't ruin it for anyone😁
I may stand corrected but I do not believe that SimpleSet allows for kerf. SetWorks does.
Good for you, Bruno. You will enjoy it.
You will like it!!
That's pretty awesome Bruno!
Quote from: Magicman on April 03, 2019, 01:10:20 PM
I may stand corrected but I do not believe that SimpleSet allows for kerf. SetWorks does.
MM:
I think you are correct. At least that is what Dave in NH told me at Bruno's sawing party last year.
Gerald
Then can you program each width 1/8" more to get what you want? Like 1&3/8 to get 5/4.
Quote from: trapper on April 03, 2019, 04:07:43 PM
Then can you program each width 1/8" more to get what you want? Like 1&3/8 to get 5/4.
Simple set you hav to add an 1/8th to you measurement for Kerf.
6/4 equals 1 5/8" on the simple set system,
So how do you know what size cant to make?
Quote from: Bruno of NH on April 03, 2019, 04:14:10 PM
So how do you know what size cant to make?
Keep a pad of paper, a pencil and a calculator handy.
I hope you are good at math.
You might want to make some cheat sheets and get them laminated for reference.
Gerald
I got a good construction calculator :D
You will do fine with simple set, as said it does not automatically compute for the kerf so you set that into your programmed drop. It's easy, I am about the most computer illiterate person out there and it took me maybe 5 minutes to figure it out. You can also use it in manual mode and it will have an inch and quarter scale for reference.
With simple set, you have to add the kerf. So, If I am sawing hardwood at 1 1/8" thickness rough, I have to program the simple set at 1 1/4" to get a 1 1/8" board. 1 1/8" board plus 1/8" kerf = 1 1/4".
There is a scale with 4/4, 5/4, 6/4, and 8/4 markings on it that you use to position the blade on the opening cut so that you get an even number of boards to the bed.
Bruno there are several methods as have been indicated above and I have tried a few of them HOWEVER, the most effective method I have found is to use the ruler for a target range finder.
If you cutting 4/4 x 6 then cut to your closest 4/4 mark on the ruler as your last side cut PRIOR to the first finish thickness cut. The dimension across will be 6 (+ the 1/8 for kerf, set 2 on your simple set screen to leave you a true 6" width) Your depth setting (set 1 the way I do it) for 4/4 will be 1 1/8. That way don't need calculator or cheat sheet.
I use set 1 for depth and set 2 for the width setting. Using the ruler is about the same result as accuset cause the ruler measures from the bunk rails and never changes. Using the ruler as the target to get simple set started to is very effective and quick.
WDH
When sawing hardwood, don't forget to flip your ruler to the hard wood side and make sure it is zeroed properly.
Have a sale pending on the Thomas
Great
The sale on the Thomas fell through
Might change my mind
Just asked Marty to price out a lt40 wide head 38 hp gas
Bruno,
Congrats to you. I use my simpleset religiously and made up a cheat sheet of the common sizes I saw. It saves me an additional cut or a thick or thin board on almost every cant. I start using my cheat sheet when I flip to the final face on the log/cant.
I think an LT40 Wide would be a better choice if you have a slab market, but it's easy to spend your money. :)
Dave
I think it's a no brainer for me.
I'm also trying to bring in black locusts and more spruce
I have never sawed on a WM wide head. But I suppose you can saw small stuff on it just fine. Than when you want to saw the wide stuff you can do that too. On a regular WM mill,the wide stuff can not be done.
Ray and Dave,
Can you guys make it to the Northern Project on May 4th?
It would be great to have you both.
Simpleset works fine for me but I don't really know what I might like better about the Accuset, except I'm positive I would like the blade height readout.
I like the SS on my mill as it is very easy to use and provides more consistent results than me reading the scale. I ran an LT50 for a man one time for a couple hours with the Accuset and I am sure I would like it even more if I used it more. I particularly liked the blade up feature where you could set the cut thickness, start at the bottom then toggle up till you saw you were at the face width you wanted then start cutting. Of course that is basically the same thing I do with my cheatsheet in advance of cutting.
I really need some one to explain the reason for a cheat sheet. I can't think of single time in almost 2000 hours of sawing where I would have a need for a cheat sheet.
When I use the ruler as the target to establish the desired start size and the simple set to do the thickness sets, where does a cheat sheet come in?
I will not be coming. I know I would enjoy it. And then some. Brenda just had knee surgery so I will use that for an excuse.
I hope to meet you some time Ray
I will be taking my new mill to Maine on the beginning of summer to saw log for a friends new home.
Maybe we can meet up then.
Bruno,
My process is saw face #1, flip 180 and saw face #2 down to the final finished board width I want and can get from the log (10" 12", etc) then I flip 90 degrees and saw till the bark is all gone then I flip to the final face and consult my cheat sheet. For example if I am sawing 8/4 I might look at the cant at the 10.5" mark and see that will yield a clean finished face but if I was at my next mark (12-5/8") it would not yield a clean board but I might be able to start at 11-5/8", saw one 4/4 board then switch my SS to 2-1/8" drops then finish the cant. I saved the 4/4 board I might have lost, I ended my last cut exactly on 2" where I wanted to be without a thick or thin dog board.
After a while you get to where you remember common start points for common lumber such as 10.5" for 8/4 or 10" for 4/4, etc. But for other sizes I check the sheet. One more thing I don't have to remember or compute on the fly.
Does that answer the value of the cheat sheet?
Quote from: WV Sawmiller on April 06, 2019, 08:27:01 PM
Does that answer the value of the cheat sheet?
Yes it does and thank you.
I guess my math skills being second nature and memory are such that I never thought of it that way and I do take it for granted. My wife really gets on my case for "rubbing" peoples noses in it.
I need at least 2 weeks,3 is better so I can get it off from work. Or plan for a Thursday or a Sunday,most times I have them days off.
Having a Cheat Sheet is sorta like having a road map, whether it's in your head or on paper. You had better know where you are going before you leave home. Starting at the correct height on a log/cant insures that you saw uniform lumber and arrive at the correct height for your dog board. My Cheat Sheet is laminated to the inside of the control cover, but it is seldom looked at anymore. After over 16 years and over a million bf of lumber sawed, those numbers are etched to the backside of my eyeballs. :o :D
Yes MM that is a good analogy.
Load, level, and the first cut gets set so that the opposite cut lands you on your first target mark or within 1 inch of target. (a wind board in my case).
I look at the ruler and set to that mark and I am off.
When I open a log I do first 2 cuts, 1 trash 1 1x? to edge or wind board, and flip 90* instead of 180* and do that again so I have both sides open, Then I cut the other 2 side of the cant to desired size. The next 2 to 4 cuts take me to finished cant size. If its 4 cuts means theres a wind board to come off each side or a 1x? or some times a 2x? that will get edged. those dimensions depend on the cut list I have in hand or head from the customer.
Congratulations on the new mill! If you get the 40 wide, you won't regret it, especially if you have any amount of big wood in your area. I do wish I had gotten the bigger engine, but the 26hp does fine, even with the turbo7's as long as I don't get too greedy on the wider cuts. Enjoy....
Marty at Woodmizer pa suggested the 38 hp gas that's what I'm going with
Marty would not steer you wrong. You will be VERY happy with that set up.
I would get the Yarnmar but I'm trying to keep cost down.
I think the gas might be quieter than the yarnmar.
I get along well with my neighbors and my dog makes enough noise chasing the bobcats
That mill will do wonders for you and you won't even think of a diesel when you are running it. Talk to @Lawg Dawg (http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=16820) I think he has the same one and that man puts out some wood!
I just changed my order to the lt40 wide 38 hp gas,debarker and command controls.
smiley_thumbsup
Good luck with your new mill.
I was hoping that you would/could add Command Control. You now have it optioned out perfectly. thumbs-up
You will love the command control 8)
I might not be able to get the lt40
It might have to be the lt35 ☹
The jump in money maybe a deal breaker
It will be a little slower, but nothing wrong with a 35. Mine built my business to the point I had to upgrade. It will serve you well.
If math is not a strength, there is an app that you might find helpful for calculating starting heights and other mill related things.
Saw Calc Pro (there is also a free version). Both US and Metric measurements, figures starting heights, board footage, log volume. Allows multiple kerfs, variable dog board heights, etc. Distributed by MicaPeak Solutions
My attitude would be- New LT35! GREAT!!! New LT40 MORE GREAT!!! It's GREAT!!! either way👍👍👍
Run the bandwheels off the 35, if everything goes really well maybe you can step right into an LT70 next time like Southside did. The 40 is a great machine, but the 35 and 70 are way better to change blades on. If you never had to experience wrestling a 1.5" blade on an LT40, that wouldn't be a bad thing😊
The lt 40 is back on :) wide version
Bruno, just get them to put hydraulics on a WM-1000 and be done with it. :D
The mill is sold pending pick up in May
I like my LT 40. Can't go wrong.
smiley_thumbsup smiley_thumbsup smiley_thumbsup
LT40 is a great mill.