Big Cherry Logs - What should I do?

[Dangerous_Dan]

Hi-
I'm new to this forum. Recently I built a small chainsaw sawmill and have been milling up pine, spruce and fir into 5/8 planks for paneling my barn apartment. I have been drying the wood in my shop which has a heated floor and plan on running it through a planer to 1/2 inch. Today I helped out a buddie of mine removing a large cherry tree from a customers yard. It was 2 trees growing about 2 feet apart and yesterdays wind storm took them down. My truck is not very big and the small crane can only lift 1000 pounds so I had to cut the tree into 8.5 foot long pieces. Let me mention the property owner wanted to cut it into firewood and roll it into the woods to save money on removing the tree. That's when my buddie called me to come with my truck and take it away. I don't have any real use at the moment for this wood except as panneling. Does cherry make good panneling or am I wasting it? It looks like a really great tree and I don't want to screw-up the cutting of it, so I'm asking for some advice on the best way to cut it to minimize warping, cracking and waste. If I don't cut it into 5/8 paneling what is the best or most common/standard size to cut it to? I'm sure you band millers out there are crying about all the sawdust I will be making but a chainsaw mill is all I've got.
Let me mention - what a nightmare it has been trying to post this and the picture. I know I'm a computer idiot but this is very unclear and frustrating.
Ok I checked out behind the forum and fixed my pic!

[Hokiemill]

Dan, welcome to the forum.  First and foremost remember that cherry can be dangerous stuff and  you should immediately gas up the truck and drive those logs to Lynchburg Va where I can properly dispose of them for you. ;D

Mill those things up, get the boards dried and sell it off for $3/bdft or more.  There's money to be made!

[DonE911]

My new house needs a table to eat at, you can send me those "dangerous" logs.    To sweeten the deal up some, I'll even cut you a few pieces of paneling ;D

[Grawulf]

Welcome DD!
Cherry in this part of Ohio is going for over $6.00 a BF (four quarter). I would cut it thicker than five eighths - cherry has a tendency to twist if not dried right - they grow in a corkscrew - you can spot a dead cherry from the road when you're driving by it - they lose their bark and you can see the spiral from a good ways away. You can generally expect to plane off a quarter of an inch. Usually, most cabinet makers like their stuff cut inch and an eighth so they end up with thirteen sixteenths after planing and sanding.

[VA-Sawyer]

Welcome DD,
Hokiemill is quite correct about the danger of Cherry logs. I'm even closer to you, so you can reduce your transport risk by bringing them to me.  ;D    Sorry Hokiemill, but you know what they say in Real Estate..... Location, Location, Location !

Dan -  Straight Answer......Cherry can be pretty valuable wood. Then again, some of it is not worth much except for smoke flavoring.  If those are good sawlogs don't use a chainsaw mill. Check around for a band mill. It will probably pay to hire a custom sawyer to do it properly. The increase yield may well cover the cost of hiring a bandmill.
VA-Sawyer

[Ron Wenrich]

Let's see.  I have a cherry kitchen table, and a cherry bedroom suite, and cherry flooring.  Cutting into 4/4 is not wasting it.  

The one thing you have to watch on cherry is gum streaks.  They are caused by the pear beetle, and may or may not have attacked a yard tree.  You'll see little pockets with dried gum in it or a black streak on the end of the log.

They aren't really a defect, but most places will cut them out of their finished product.

For posting pictures, go to the "Behind the Forum"  section to get some insight.  

[rebocardo]

> I will be making but a chainsaw mill is all I've got.

Like going 4x4, its "run what you brung".

I have been using my chainsaw mill and it does bring about 200 pounds of dust to the game, but, that 10 feet of rooster dust is music to the ear$  :D

Personally, I like cutting my stuff either 5/4 (1 1/4) or 2 inches because of the amount of waste and time it takes with a chainsaw mill. Though I have cut stuff almost thin enough to see though just for the fun of it and to make "paper" for kids to write on.

As for thickness, I would think people would rather have too much cherry instead of not enough. The tree was basically free, so I would tend to be generous on the cutting, people appreciate it. Plus, most wood workers will have planers and sanders.

What I CERTAINLY WOULD do is take the nicest cuts of the wood and give them to my friend or make something nice like cherry cup holders or a dash insert for his truck or a nice 2" thick coffee table for in front of his/her couch they can throw their feet on.

Try the ripping chain Bailey's sells. People come along, see me milling, and still ask me where the planer is. It cuts really smooth.

[Ga_Boy]

Dan,

FIRST THINGS FIRST----- SEAL THE ENDS OF THOSE THINGS ASAP!!!!!!!!


Now, welcome.

I am alot closer than either Hookie or VA-Saw; sorry fellas; I'm in La Plata, MD just down the street a-ways from you.  I am even trained and certified in the porper disposal of dangerous items. I'll even meet you half way.

Now with that said, it is like back when Uncle Jed Clampet went hunt'in; there is oil in them thar hills; well in your case logs.  

You have the oppertunity to make some serious coin with your logs (starting at $4.25/bf) when they have been milled to 4/4 to 6/4 material and dried.  Find a local kiln, there has got to be a half dozen or so with-in a stones throw from you.  If not just put up a post and ask for kiln services in your area.



Mark

[VA-Sawyer]

Lost another one to Ditech, er, I mean GA_Boy  :D

[DR Buck]

Sure wouldn't want you to waste gas or take the added risk to drive those dangerous logs to those greedy guys way-down in southern VA.   Just stop here in Northern VA and I'll even help you unload them.  ;D :D ;D


I saved a few cherry logs last spring from a firewood pile.  Sawed about $3000 worth of 4/4 and 5/4 boards from them.

[DonE911]

Well... is any one that is "close" gonna offer to go get them "hazmat" logs from his house or what??


 :D :D :D :D :D :D

[Ga_Boy]

Lost another on to Ditech, er, I mean GA_Boy  :D

 :D :D :D :D :D

[Dangerous_Dan]

Hi All-
Thanks for all the advice on disposing of those logs. That truck with the logs on it has 20 speeds forward but only goes 46 mph and that is floored! So I don't think I will be driving them out of state. Sorry guys. As for the cutting, I want to do it myself with the chainsaw mill - That's why I built It. Sounds like the best thing is to cut 2 inch or so boards using the quartersawing method.
Should I leave the bark on the one edge after its cut or trim it up so all sides are cut?
I will be attemting to dry the wood myself in my heated shop or unheated garage. Any ideas on which would be better?
I plan on stickering it with 1 inch stickers but how many stickers should be supporing a 8 foot board?
1 per foot?
How much weight on top is sufficient to hold it down?
How long will it take to properly dry? or dry enough to stack without stickers?
My whole sawmill project is low budget so I'm going to seal the ends with paint. What is better latex or oil? How many coats should be applied?
I have access to alot of freshly cut logs, what are some "good" logs to look for? and what are their good and bad points?

[music_boy]

Well,
       Since there seems to be a competition,
  ;D, I've got Ga. Boy beat 8) I've even got the orange mill I can bring with me.  ;D I would even be willing to come to you for Cherry,,  Just a stones throw from the Bay bridge!!!!!!!      But
I don't saw dangerous logs :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D
Rick

[Norm]

DD, use the unheated garage at first. Drying too quickly will degrade the lumber, after you get down to 30% moisture you can move it into your heated shop to go down further. As far as weight on top you can put on as much as humanly possible to keep the wood from moving, put your stickers every 18-24"'s with one on each end less than six inches in. Any that have obvious tension in them should go on the bottom of the stack. Cherry is pretty forgiving drying wise, how long it will take is dependent on how warm it is. This time of year in an unheated garage they will lose moisture slowly but that's a good thing, too slow of drying is almost as bad as too fast but cold temps make it less likely to cause problems. Paint will work but I'd use two or three coats, use latex.

[KENROD]

First, Welcome DD.
You can space stickers up to 24" apart, but I only go that far on lower quality lumber. I would space at 18" but 12" will work just fine, it just takes alot more stickers. I don't usually add weight to top of a pile. I just place the best quality on the bottom of the pile. I don't recommend drying green wood in your shop. There's alot of water in them boards. It will cause tools to rust, codensation on walls and ceiling. Unless of course you leave the door open, but that will be a little drafty this time of year. ;) :
I think all logs are good. Some are just better. ;D

[Ron Wenrich]

Don't forget to support the bundle by putting a skid underneath the sticks.  We use a 3x4 at our mill and it is made from junk wood.  You could get away with a 2 x 4.  Make sure all sticks are in a straight line.  

A rule-of-thumb is 6 months/1" of wood.  So, if you cut 4/4, you should be air dried in 6 months.  But, that doesn't take it down to 6-12%.  You should get it kiln dried to have optimum drying.  It drives out more water.

You can safely dead pile lumber after about 6 months.  Just don't leave it in the rain.  You should have some sort of roof on top of your piles to keep out debris and water.  A piece of tin works fine, as does slabs or old lumber.

[Dangerous_Dan]

Thanks for more great help.
Music_Boy-
I'm open to offers regarding having you or someone else come  to my place in north jersey and mill up this cherry. I'm 5 miles from where   rt 80 crosses rt 287. What % of the finished product do you want? I have plenty of room to set up another mill and I have enough heavy equiptment at my place to move just about anything. If you think you can mill up all that cherry in less than a day I have also have a large maple that you can attack. 42 inches at the base and about 9 feet long splitting into 3 large trunks at the small end. It was removed with a crane, about 5000 lbs. I was thinking of trying to split it into quarters using a Komatsu PC200 with a stump shear attachment but I hav'nt tried it yet and a buddie of mine is buying the machine on Monday. If I don't get to it I'm cutting it for firewood to heat my shop. My wood burner is big enough to take that 40 inch log without splitting it, just cut it to 2 foot sections and roll it in. Lots of options here, I'm listening. Thanks to all who posted for the great advice and help.

[rebocardo]

Yesterday I thought that picture was a trailer, now that it is bigger I see it is a Unimog or something. Looks like an awesome truck that can carry much weight, I need a 4x4 truck like that.  

[Furby]

Sorry for asking, but is that cherry on the truck, or birch?
Never seen cherry that light of color before.

[Ron Wenrich]

It could be sweet cherry.  The bark doesn't break up like black cherry.

[Dangerous_Dan]

I did a little milling today and here are some better pix of the wood in question. It does'nt smell like birch beer, if that matters. So, what can it be?
After the wood is cut into planks, it is cut on 3 sides. Should I trim off the bark so its cut on all sides befor drying?

[ohsoloco]

First off, nice pics Dan    

I'd say it's some kind of cherry, although it's not black cherry.  I milled a cherry log a while back for some guy that got it from Penn State somewhere, and he said it was some type of European cherry...the bark looked kinda like what you got there, only different  :  

Unless you are planning on building something that will use bark in the piece (I like to do this a lot), I would trim it off now, since it's a great place to harbor bugs.

[Ga_Boy]

Well, after exaustive research (2 minutes worth) :P; and by the power vested in me by my National Audubon Society Field Guide To Trees":


I claim that to be a Sour Cherry.

[Furby]

What is the defining feature that tells ya it's sour cherry?
I've seen several different cherries, and none of them were that light, or color. I know this can change from area to area, so that's why I'm asking.

It does look a lot like birch to me though. :

[Ianab]

Bark looks like the ornamental European cherry trees that are grown here in NZ. Prunus avium I believe. They can definately grow big enough to produce logs like that and the bark looks about right. Timber is stong, fine grained but not durable. As it's a yard tree it may not be a native species?

Ian

[Ga_Boy]

Furby,

I am a-bit slow in the tree ID department; that is why I spent the $20 and bought me a ID book, it's got color pictures and everything.

In this case the key ID feature was the bark, it's more of a silver color.  In the Birch family the barks are yellow-ish or gold tint.  The Birch's with silever bark do not have the same features as that in DD's picture.  Another key ID feature is that o'l DD is just up the road a-piece in Pa. and my field guide is for the Eastern Region.


Mark

[Brad_S.]

Around here they call that choke cherry. It has a cherry grain and look but not the nice pink/rust color of cherry. Has more of a greenish tint to it.

[Al_Smith]

Howdy;I'm new to this site[on three others],but not to lumber saws etc.I have around 1200 bdf,of black cherry,with 70% f and s,stacked below 3000 bdf of red oak[for weight].Stickered,inside an enclosed building .My suggestions,first,seal the ends,with anchorseal,or some other wax based sealant.Mill in with a band saw.Stack,and sticker it with dry stickers.If inside,put some fans on it.Let it air dry for about 1 year,then kiln dry,what you want to use.Mill it in a timely manner,to prevent as much loss as possible,as it doesn't weather well .After all that,you can make some of the finest wood work,or what ever you desire. ;D

[Lenny_M]

 Looks a lot like the black birch i saved from the cordwood pile last spring. At first I thought it was cherry.
 Love the smell of that stuff. Sorta like spearmint.Planed out nice. Gonna tonge and grove it to finish off a bathroom
                                     Lenny

[Swede]

Yesterday I thought that picture was a trailer, now that it is bigger I see it is a Unimog or something. Looks like an awesome truck that can carry much weight, I need a 4x4 truck like that.    

rebocardo, try to buy that truck today! It will never be worth the same after been unloaded!  :D :D :D

Yesterday a guy asked me if I want an old cherry tree. I looked cool and asked: It depends,  WHAT sherry are You talking about?
Here you just find cherry in gardens and not often anyone takes them down.

Swede.