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Deere 440a clutch replacement

Started by thenorthman, May 21, 2016, 07:29:34 PM

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thenorthman

So since the last clutch barely had any pressure at all, putting spacers is going to help?


Or perhaps I simply screwed up on adjusting the fingers, and have them to far in, so the throw out dogs are running out of throw before doing their job. They are after all, very short, and being that they are turned 20-30 degrees before making contact... that first 20-30 degrees is where most of the travel is going to happen. The throw out bearing only moves about .5 inches, or less, a 1/4 inch adjustment on the fingers is literally only 2 full turns on the adjusters, or about 1/16 on the plate side.

I appreciate the help, I do.
well that didn't work

ohiowoodchuck

The spacers control the wear of the clutch so to speak. The reason it isn't releasing is there isn't enough room for the pressure plate to come off the disc so it will spin. The fingers are just a set height parallel to the flywheel, and disc. The clutches I ran when I use to truck pull, had spacers under the stands, so after so many hooks you took a spacer out to account for wear, if you took them all out it wouldn't release. Which I believe is the problem your having. When I would adjust my fingers I simply used a straight edge on the back of the pressure plate and make them just touch the straight edge. What I gather from reading in the manual and my take is to adjust the clutch for wear should be done on the rod. just trying to share my thoughts and experience with clutches. I've tore up more clutches than Kellogg's has corn flakes.
Education is the best defense against the media.

thenorthman

Right, so spacers don't exist, never did... called every dealer, parts house, and friend I can think of, this may be a hot rod thing, but its not a deere thing.

That out of the way, the new clutch... is just wrong, slightly bigger in diameter, and the pads are much wider, so its rubbing on the frame of the pressure plate.

Yes I tore it apart today... again... No it wasn't in backwards, no the splines wheren't hitting on the pto drive.

So I stuck the old one back in cause it didn't look as bad I feared when I first tore it apart. After adjusting the pressure plate to a better spec, and dressing the flywheel.

Guess what

It works flawlessly, took 7 tries but at least now its working and I can get back to logging.

The moral of this story, adjustable pressure plates suck...
well that didn't work

thenorthman

P.S. this isn't my first clutch replacement, just first one on this kind of machine

if this where a car I wouldn't have needed to ask any questions, but tractor clutches is weird, all adjustable and stoopid

Knowing what I know now though, about the only thing I'm worried about replacing on the ole girl now is the tranny, everything else is fairly easy to get to... except most of the hydraulic hoses... they are a nightmare...
well that didn't work

snowstorm

spacers dont exist never did. yes they did. find a 440 tech manual from the 80's they are there

thenorthman

That may be, but the Deere dealer never heard of em, and this 440 is an A and was built in the early 70's so no spacers, Napa never heard of em, washington tractor never heard of em.
well that didn't work

ohiowoodchuck

Not to start a argument but my book shows the spacers. I'm glad you got it fixed and working correctly. That's all that matters
Education is the best defense against the media.

grassfed

I looked on the John Deere parts website and I could not find any spacers in the parts diagram. I did notice that they revised the design at least 3 times and they did list washers that they specified as 5/16 or 3/8. I could not tell if that was thickness or diameter so they could have been spacers and they were part of the revised part numbers. I would suspect that the clearance all comes down the pressure plate design and as long as you can come up with the correct distance adjustment, be it with spacers of adjusting the fingers, the clutch will work the same. Did the adjustment that finally worked fit into any of the numbers that I sent you from my manual? I am sure that I will have to do this eventually on my machine so thanks for keeping us informed.     
Mike

ohiowoodchuck

my books calls them spacers and I was even able to find them aftermarket for 7.24 for a set of six, the new parts breakdown doesn't show them though, probably like grassfed said they have revised the clutch three times since.
Education is the best defense against the media.

thenorthman

You folks looking at a power shift? cause thats a totally different clutch pack. That takes some warshers, and spacers, and a pile of other easy to loose parts.
well that didn't work

thenorthman

Quote from: grassfed on June 13, 2016, 01:46:45 PM
I looked on the John Deere parts website and I could not find any spacers in the parts diagram. I did notice that they revised the design at least 3 times and they did list washers that they specified as 5/16 or 3/8. I could not tell if that was thickness or diameter so they could have been spacers and they were part of the revised part numbers. I would suspect that the clearance all comes down the pressure plate design and as long as you can come up with the correct distance adjustment, be it with spacers of adjusting the fingers, the clutch will work the same. Did the adjustment that finally worked fit into any of the numbers that I sent you from my manual? I am sure that I will have to do this eventually on my machine so thanks for keeping us informed.   

Those numbers where close, in that originally with some adjusting the pedal side, it would have worked (other then the disk rubbing the plate frame bit) and would have allowed plenty of wear before needing adjusting again. but I honestly got a little er upset.. and winged the final try. Also factor in a redressed fly wheel, and a slightly worn disk, so the fingers are probably a little past those specs, by like say .37-.5".  A little on the jack screw is a bunch on the finger, somewheres around .5 turns equals about .125 on the finger, and the screw is fine pitched.

When yer ready its fairly easy, motor don't have to come all the way out even, just remove a couple of short wires, main power from battery, temp wire thing(mechanical), throttle linkage, and maybe one of the clamp bolts for the alternator wiring. On mine at least it allowed the motor to slip forward 4-6 inches, giving access to the adjusting bolts. The cherry picker engine hoist worked for this part, not so much for completely pulling motor (though on flat concrete it would have done the trick).

Oh and nose guard, air cleaner assm,front belly pan, and hood all have to come off, nose guard being the most awckward bit.

For full removal there are a few fuel and hydro hoses that need disconnected but nothing terrible.

Also the RPM drive wire thing will fall out once motor has been removed... mine don't work so its staying out anyway. gauge is wonky.
well that didn't work

ohiowoodchuck

I'm looking at a syncro range clutch set up. My book is a 84 print year.
Education is the best defense against the media.

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