Saw for a chainsaw mill

Coast Steve · March 31, 2014, 10:35:30 AM

Now back to Smitty's original question:

Does anyone have a recommendation for a good saw for a chainsaw mill? I'm thinking something around 80cc's. Or maybe I should ask if there is a saw I should avoid.

Anything luck yet Smitty?

I assume you're looking in the local Craigslist and papers?

Smitty316 · March 31, 2014, 03:32:31 PM

I really appreciate the help guys, and those are some impressive pictures Coast Steve.

RPF2509 · April 08, 2014, 06:36:00 PM

I ran a Husky 372 with a 24" bar on my alaska mill and it was barely big enough. I also ran a stihl 90 with a 48" bar and it worked nicely. If you get the alaska mill be sure to order the auxilliary oiler if cutting anything over 24". I sure helps to have it. Like everyone says - bigger is better. It can get tiresome hanging onto a just adequate saw while it inches its way through a log. Ripping chain is a plus as it will leave a smoother cut

T A Derrickson · April 09, 2014, 01:02:28 PM

Howdy from Tennessee.

I just bought a chainsaw mill after a lot of research. I decided on the PantherPro 2 for several reasons.

1) On the website, the owner posted his personal cell #. I called, and sure enough he answered. Took the time to talk with me about what I would use it for, and particulars about his product.

2) It is solid tubular steel, made here in the USA.

As part of my research, it became very obvious that the more HP in a saw, the better. Also, very improtant to use a ripping chain. Stihl manufactures them, and I highly recommend them. Here are some pictures of my mill.

Coast Steve · April 12, 2014, 11:01:13 PM

Nice!
Looks good and strong.
Nice grain on that log too....I see table tops

.

krustysurfer · December 10, 2018, 04:14:44 PM

Quote from: HolmenTree on March 26, 2014, 11:16:00 AM
Quote from: Andyshine77 on March 26, 2014, 12:11:16 AM
A Husky 395 makes a great milling saw. You want at least 90cc for a real milling saw IMHO.
Like Andre said the 395XP is a good fit. I'm liking it more now then my Stihl 090AV with a 36" b/c setup.
The Alaskan is all I need for the amount of milling I do, trick is have a efficient slabbing rail setup. I use 2"x4" aluminum tubing rails with screw down leveler bolts and nail down end brackets.

But check out our sponsor Bailey's and look at their LogoSol M8 mill, if I hadn't already invested in the Alaskan that's the route I'd go.

THAT IS ONE BEAUTIFUL SIGHT!!!!!!!!!!!! 8)

krustysurfer · December 10, 2018, 04:24:47 PM

Quote from: Coast Steve on March 29, 2014, 11:00:50 PM
Hi Smitty,

Local professional fallers are the best bet I've found for chainsaws.

I put an add in the local Craigslist "Attn all loggers and Fallers, looking for chainsaw"
I got about 5 replies.

Those guys seem to change their saws every couple of years with new ones,
and usually have a couple old 660's or something like it lying around.

I picked up a well used Stihl 660 for $250 a while back from a local faller that works for one of the local logging companies.

They have a hard life with those boys running them 6 hours a day but the price is usually pretty good.
The usually have bars too.

Plus all the pro guys here make up their own chains for cheaper.

(greenhorn chainsaw guys like me still get my chains from a box)
but that could change soon :-\

From what I tried, Up to 36" dia logs a 660 worked out well, over that size it still milled it... but didn't like it and got a little hot.

Here's my setup:

Steve

The Local Stihl dealer refused to sell me MS661 for a mill- said he would not warranty the saw if i bought it (this was last month western lower michigan)... imagine that!
however, i think he might have saved us both headaches and bad feelings- he said the 661 would burn up in a mill set up because of the Stihl carburetor air monitoring system that would keep the saw in a Lean condition Situation- we went with the 395xp instead, have not run it yet, looking forward to the fun and beauty of milling slabs. i wish you well on your quest

krustysurfer · December 10, 2018, 04:26:33 PM

Quote from: RPF2509 on April 08, 2014, 06:36:00 PM
I ran a Husky 372 with a 24" bar on my alaska mill and it was barely big enough. I also ran a stihl 90 with a 48" bar and it worked nicely. If you get the alaska mill be sure to order the auxilliary oiler if cutting anything over 24". I sure helps to have it. Like everyone says - bigger is better. It can get tiresome hanging onto a just adequate saw while it inches its way through a log. Ripping chain is a plus as it will leave a smoother cut

we will remember to do so! buying oiler set up sounds like a must!

stanmillnc · December 10, 2018, 04:26:57 PM

I've got the Stihl MS880 - 120cc with my Alaskan mill setup. Works great. Trick is to keep your chain sharp especially when cutting wide hardwoods so you don't work the saw excessively. I only use mine on slabs wider than 34" and need to sharpen mine after every three cuts through these big wide oak / hickory / walnut slabs. Otherwise the saw gets hot and bogs down. I would also run a richer mix than 50:1. I run 35:1 and was told by my Stihl supplier it would be better for the saw with my demanding application. Just puts out a bit more smoke is all. Also, don't let it run out of fuel if you can help it - that split second where there is no lubrication within the combustion chamber can contribute to wear. Just some tips I got from Stihl.

Lorenzo · December 11, 2018, 08:13:32 AM

Quote from: Coast Steve on March 30, 2014, 09:53:58 PM
Wow, you crazy man.
A nice little gig I must say.
It just looks wrong somehow though. Did it cut ok? I bet it was slower than a wood log eh?

Here's the 090 I'm selling, with... "my fleet"

I am not able to see these pictures,
are they not available any more or is it something wrong on my end?

hedgerow · December 11, 2018, 09:24:55 AM

Quote from: stanmillnc on December 10, 2018, 04:26:57 PM
I've got the Stihl MS880 - 120cc with my Alaskan mill setup. Works great. Trick is to keep your chain sharp especially when cutting wide hardwoods so you don't work the saw excessively. I only use mine on slabs wider than 34" and need to sharpen mine after every three cuts through these big wide oak / hickory / walnut slabs. Otherwise the saw gets hot and bogs down. I would also run a richer mix than 50:1. I run 35:1 and was told by my Stihl supplier it would be better for the saw with my demanding application. Just puts out a bit more smoke is all. Also, don't let it run out of fuel if you can help it - that split second where there is no lubrication within the combustion chamber can contribute to wear. Just some tips I got from Stihl.

So this post got my thinking do you guys run your saws completely out of fuel when you bucking wood or do you stop before its out. Usually when I buck firewood I am not running the saw and am in the skid loader holding the log up. I usually try to stop them before they run out of fuel. We usually buck in the warmer time of year. I have one helper that likes to run until the saw quiets. Is it hard on a saw or not running them out of fuel?

HolmenTree · December 11, 2018, 11:45:56 AM

Running a saw out of fuel while heavy milling is definitely not good for them. I like them to cool down after heavy cutting by holding them at half throttle free wheeling for about 20 seconds then let them idle for another minute before shutting down.
If you run them out of gas mid cut, refuel them and restart them ASAP.

Mad Professor · December 11, 2018, 12:57:08 PM

I brought a logosol M5 that came with a 066 stihl 20 years ago and have been very happy with both. I use the 3/8 PMX picco milling chain and it leaves a smooth finish on the boards and has a narrow kerf.

Baileys has the newer logosol M8 and husky 390 on sale now.

I'd go with at least 90cc for a saw. For mill it depends on what you want to do and how big your logs are.

Mad Professor · December 11, 2018, 05:26:53 PM

Quote from: hedgerow on December 11, 2018, 09:24:55 AM
Quote from: stanmillnc on December 10, 2018, 04:26:57 PM
I've got the Stihl MS880 - 120cc with my Alaskan mill setup. Works great. Trick is to keep your chain sharp especially when cutting wide hardwoods so you don't work the saw excessively. I only use mine on slabs wider than 34" and need to sharpen mine after every three cuts through these big wide oak / hickory / walnut slabs. Otherwise the saw gets hot and bogs down. I would also run a richer mix than 50:1. I run 35:1 and was told by my Stihl supplier it would be better for the saw with my demanding application. Just puts out a bit more smoke is all. Also, don't let it run out of fuel if you can help it - that split second where there is no lubrication within the combustion chamber can contribute to wear. Just some tips I got from Stihl.
So this post got my thinking do you guys run your saws completely out of fuel when you bucking wood or do you stop before its out. Usually when I buck firewood I am not running the saw and am in the skid loader holding the log up. I usually try to stop them before they run out of fuel. We usually buck in the warmer time of year. I have one helper that likes to run until the saw quiets. Is it hard on a saw or not running them out of fuel?

When bucking/felling my saws usually cough a bit before they die from out of mix. I try not to let that happen but if it coughs it gets filled.
On my mill I try to make sure I have fuel for the cut. The fuel tank on my 066 is translucent so I can eyeball what is left. Like Holmen said it's good to let the saw run a bit after a cut to cool things, rather than shutting right down.
As mentioned when milling keep the chain sharp, sharpen before it gets dull. Also keep the bar rails true and well dressed, flip it often, an aux oiler can be helpful and/or a HD oil pump (stihls). Besides an oiler, a water dripper will help keep the bar/chain cooler.
The chains will get really hot so they will stretch, and you will need to tighten the chain, they will contract when cool so loosen a bit when you are done. If you don't, it will put a lot of stress on the clutch side next time you run things.