Mold on anchorseal

Jim_Rogers · August 18, 2018, 10:46:56 AM

Yesterday at the job site where I'm cutting joints in hemlock timbers the customer showed me some mold growing on is joints and timbers where he has applied anchorseal.
Here are two pictures:

the top one shows on the end of timbers and this one shows in a mortise:

He asked me what's up with that? I told him I had never seen this before.
I suggested he call anchorseal and ask them.
He thought he'd spray some bleach on them to kill the mold.
We'll see how he did next time I'm there.

Any ideas about this?

Jim Rogers

rjwoelk · August 18, 2018, 10:57:06 AM

I get that on my wood as well after sealing. My take is that the mold spores are on the wood before sealing. I have some that sat overnight and some were min old after cutting before sealing will see if they mold.

rjwoelk · August 18, 2018, 10:59:39 AM

I am wondering if its pollen dust or such. When we built the cabin we got it on a couple of logs only.

Jim_Rogers · August 18, 2018, 11:15:14 AM

He has been applying anchorseal to his timbers within minutes of me completing it. Usually in less than one hour time.
I would say that it has been very humid here lately.
And as he is concerned about his timbers getting wet, from rain, and gray from the sun, he has been covering them with plastic, almost all the time. This is not the best for air flow and drying. Which could be a contributing factor to the mold.

Jim Rogers

Southside · August 18, 2018, 12:48:32 PM

High humidity and covered in plastic, recipe here for mold, especially in pine. I have had success with bleach in these instances.

Jim_Rogers · August 18, 2018, 01:45:51 PM

Quote from: Southside logger on August 18, 2018, 12:48:32 PM
High humidity and covered in plastic, recipe here for mold, especially in pine. I have had success with bleach in these instances.

I agree, even if the timbers were hemlock.
Jim Rogers

rjwoelk · August 18, 2018, 10:46:47 PM

I had it on Birch and Hemlock both.

GeneWengert-WoodDoc · August 19, 2018, 07:56:19 PM

Perhaps it is obvious, but the wax in Anchorseal is designed to stop drying. We also know that fungi need food (sugar in the wood often), warm temperatures, oxygen and moisture. We hope that the sealing the end grain with a thick coating will keep the wood so wet that oxygen cannot get in. So, is the coating thick enough? I note in the first picture, that only the side grain has mold and not the end grain. It looks like the coating is too thin on the side grain. Perhaps the cutters used heated the wood and dried it a bit allowing oxygen in at the surface. In fact Anchorseal is not designed for side grain. The second picture also shows the end grain is free of stain. Perhaps we need more info on the amount of coating used. Of course, Anchorseal has no fungicide in it.

One further comment...mold and mildew use dust, dirt, microorganisms, for food and not wood or it's componenets, except right under the bark. So, it is confusing, as I do not know what food is present on the cut surfaces...he must be adding something that is used for food...maybe it is the lubricant for the cutters?

Brad_bb · August 19, 2018, 08:45:34 PM

I've been covering reclaimed timbers with used titanium UDL roof paper that is 4 ft wide. have frames on top of the stack and I screw the paper (it's not actually paper but a synthetic/reinforced plastic), to the top, south, and west faces. North and east face is open. You get sun protection but decent airflow.

PA_Walnut · August 20, 2018, 10:10:32 AM

Quote from: Brad_bb on August 19, 2018, 08:45:34 PM've been covering reclaimed timbers with used titanium UDL roof paper that is 4 ft wide. have frames on top of the stack and I screw the paper (it's not actually paper but a synthetic/reinforced plastic), to the top, south, and west faces. North and east face is open. You get sun protection but decent airflow.

NICE PLAN! Where do you get the Titanium UDL?

Brad_bb · August 20, 2018, 05:19:19 PM

Online or building supply. I forget why we had a bunch on site that got used and then removed. So it's been reused multiple times as timber covers and floor covering to keep new concrete from getting marked up.

Crusarius · August 21, 2018, 01:12:54 PM

So I noticed last night while anchor sealing more walnut that my walnut and hickory I anchor sealed last weekend has mold on the ends.

I don't remember where I was going with this....

Peter Drouin · August 22, 2018, 10:02:15 PM

Hi Jim,

Sealing too soon, Have to let hemlock dry to the touch.
You will see the same black stain in wet dead stacked hemlock.

PA_Walnut · August 27, 2018, 07:46:31 AM

Quote from: Crusarius on August 21, 2018, 01:12:54 PMSo I noticed last night while anchor sealing more walnut that my walnut and hickory I anchor sealed last weekend has mold on the ends. I don't remember where I was going with this....

It's this LOONEY weather--hot humid constantly. I have fans going 24/7. Shouldn't hurt the walnut. Don't know about hickory. Is it white or black mold?
I've been spraying everything with BoraCare. That helps for mold/fungus and bugs. Soak it good!

Crusarius · August 27, 2018, 08:31:23 AM

Black mold. It doesn't seem to have gotten any worse so maybe the sudden change in weather has helped slow its spread.

Your absolutely right. This weather is screwy. And messing up everything.

PA_Walnut · August 27, 2018, 08:50:21 AM

Quote from: Crusarius on August 27, 2018, 08:31:23 AMYour absolutely right. This weather is screwy. And messing up everything.

Its been a REAL battle. Lost some maple to staining. (even with diligence and fans) :-\
...and the evil weather is BACK! :-[

Crusarius · August 27, 2018, 09:28:53 AM

I had some 5/4 composite deck boards left in my shed just taking up space. I cut those into 5/4 squares and use those to sticker my walnut. hopefully they will do the trick. it may be a good option for light colored woods as well.

It is normally expensive but I wonder if you could get some cancelled special order stuff or damaged from big box store for cheap. I am going to look into it at some point.

PA_Walnut · August 28, 2018, 07:20:11 AM

Look for specialty stickers for your maple. Only a small portion touches the wood. Breeze-Dried, Air-o-Flo, etc
I've got a fortune invested in them but never have stain or shadowing involving stickers. Well worth it to me!

Crusarius · August 28, 2018, 07:50:07 AM

I thought about scalloping the composite decking and using those. Be cheaper than buying them in the short term but probably more money in the long term.