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Dust Collection/Blower Question

Started by SPD748, February 05, 2015, 06:54:29 AM

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SPD748

I have a side project in the works. It's still super top secret so I can't give away much information...yet  smiley_thumbsup

Anyway, I'll be needing a dust blower for said project and I'm trying to understand the related terms and specs. The blower that I'm looking at (Meadows Mills #1 direct drive) has the following specs:

520 cfm
Velocity Pressure in water gauge - .44 (no idea what this means)
SP in water gauge - .3 (no idea what this means)
Max SP in water gauge - 5.8 (no idea what this means)

I could always buy one then hook it up and see what happens but you guys know that I'll not be satisfied until I truly understand the concept so...

Can someone explain what these terms and specs mean and how to calculate the effectiveness of this blower? For that matter, I'd like to understand how to design a dust collection system all together.

-lee
Frick 0 Handset - A continuing project dedicated to my Dad.

410 Deere, 240 Massey... I really need a rough terrain forklift :)

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Brad_bb

That sounds like an average sized dust collector used for a cabinet shop, like for a table saw etc.  I have a Jet 1100cfm single bag unit that I use in my regular woodworking shop.  I recently tried out this dust collector on my beam planer on my sawmill and it collects very well.  The only problem was that it as filling up the bag just surfacing one beam.  Granted the planing makes large chips which causes a lof of air to be between chips.  Milling also creates a lot of saw dust too though and I'd think you'd fill a bag pretty quick.  You don't want to be changing bags constantly.  So yesterday I built 4'x4'x8' box built on top of a home made skid so I can pick up the box with the forklift and load it in the back of my pick up.  This way I can take it out to the burn pile or take it out and spread the chips to decompose.  I'm putting the box in a the other half of the shop to keep any dust out of the half of the shop I'm working in.  Some folks put a collection receptacle outside of the building or saw shed.

Another source I've been looking at is Penn State Industries.  They have a dust collection planning service and sell proper dust collection duct work that are smooth inside so they don't have restrictions.  Two things I read on there is that for dust collection you want smooth duct work whenever possible and you want to avoid 90 degree turns in the system.  They create the most restriction.  Also, I think the blower motors they sell are also sold by Grainger.  My jet dust collector motor is 1.5 HP and 1100cfm and seems to be plenty with a 4" duct/or hose that's not too long.  If you step up to larger ductwork or longer runs, you need to figure out what size motor you can get away with.  Hope this helps.
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/dust-collection.html
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blade69001

I do not think I will ever understand Air flow and pressure stats. The truth is I am not that interested in taking the time to learn  and so far have not had to.

@Brad_bb I use a yep Harbor Freight dust collection system. I know but it is what I can afford on my budget and it works on single phase. In fact I use three of them, one for my PET cutting and the other two for my resaw. I do this this way so I never have to stop production to change bags. The resaw will fill a bag in about 20 minutes so we just switch the other one on and then change out the full bag.
Just being me, But it is ok you do not have to like me.

StimW

As I understand it-
In a water gauge you are lifting water to measure pressure by the weight of the water.
SP- should be standing pressure
Max SP- is probably amount of pressure with opening blocked.
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pineywoods

I have 2 of the harbor freight blowers that come with their dust collection system. 2 hp single phase. One is in my sawshed where it handles anything a WM lt40 can throw at it. The other is in my shop tied to an 18 woodmaster planer, a radial arm saw, a cabinet saw and a shaper. Not all at the same time of course. They are a good solid unit with enclosed moters and a welded up metal impeller and sheet metal enclosure. The only problem has been the on-off switch. Had to replace both with a good industrial switch. Here's a tip on pipes, use metal stove pipe from the local hardware store. Cheap, Comes in 3 ft or 5 ft lengths, snaps together
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