toeboard mods for 95 lt40 hyd

Joey Grimes · October 05, 2015, 07:01:13 PM

We've been cutting a good bit small cedar and the toeboards don't always hit log so it takes one person to raise log while I clamp it. I would like to upgrade to the new style rollers but wondering is there a simple mod I could do to hit smaller logs?

Magicman · October 05, 2015, 07:12:14 PM

Even then, there will be some that do not hit. Wedges and other improvisions will always exist.

Joey Grimes · October 05, 2015, 07:30:20 PM

Could I bolt a angle to the knife? I know to wouldn't be a good idea for large logs but small ones maybe

Joey Grimes · October 05, 2015, 07:31:30 PM

Small piece of angle iron

Chuck White · October 06, 2015, 07:15:05 AM

If you're doing lots of small stuff, I can't see where it would hurt anything to add the angle iron to the toeboard knife!

I think that if I was going to do it, I'd drill 2 holes in the knife and tap them for the size bolts you intend to use, then drill the angle iron to match it!

That way, you wouldn't have to worry about losing one of the nuts in the sawdust, just 3 pieces, the angle iron, and 2 bolts!

Sixacresand · October 06, 2015, 08:42:13 AM

I understand that you have improvise with blocks, wedges, sacrifice boards to mill short/small stuff. But what is a toe board knife? My mill may have one and I don't know what it is called. A photo would be great. (somebody on the Forum said the only dumb question is the one not asked. I'm using that rule, now)

deadfall · October 06, 2015, 09:36:32 AM

On the manual mill, at least on the LT-30 I had in the late '80s, the manual toe boards were made of flat bar, I think quarter inch, and the log sat on the knife edge of it. Now that I have an HD, I loves me them rollers.

I see that the mill in question is a HYD. Didn't the '95s have hydraulic roller toe boards?

deadfall · October 06, 2015, 09:50:41 AM

After reading this over, I don't know if small logs means length or diameter. Now I too am wondering about what the knife in question might be.

47sawdust · October 06, 2015, 12:33:27 PM

I keep a variety of spacer blocks on hand to adjust for taper.It is faster and works well on small diameter logs.As mentioned the toeboards on the manual WM don't work on small logs.A pair of roller style toeboards would be real nice but I don't know how to fab that up on my Lt30,non-hydraulic.

Chuck White · October 06, 2015, 09:31:43 PM

On the Hydraulic sawmills "prior to the roller toe boards" there is a flat piece of metal about 3/8x2x10 (approx) welded on top of the toe board ram, some refer to this as a toe board knife!

okmulch · October 07, 2015, 09:45:54 PM

Sawing cedar I keep a 1 inch by 2 inch by 8 inch piece of wood to use as a shim in place of the toe board. I watch the log as it is rolled on to the mill and if needed which it usually is I pick up the small end and slide it under to shim the small end. I can do this faster then using a hydraulic toe board.

starmac · October 07, 2015, 11:55:24 PM

Can the later model roller toeboards be added to the older lt40hd's, or is it something a guy would have to fab up?

Chuck White · October 08, 2015, 06:41:15 AM

I'm not absolutely positive, but I'm pretty sure that the old type toeboards can be swapped out and roller toeboards put in!

A call to Wood-Mizer will verify that for sure!

Jim_Rogers · October 08, 2015, 09:29:41 AM

I upgraded my 94 lt30 to the roller toe boards.
I got the kit from WM.
It came with two new bed rails with mounting brackets for the rollers. Two pieces of hose to extend the lines to the pistons. And a bracket to hold the pistons. Also springs to retrack the rollers.
It wasn't hard to change everything and it works good still.

Jim Rogers

uler3161 · October 08, 2015, 07:43:35 PM

I upgraded my '89 model with the roller toeboards. Easy upgrade.

starmac · October 09, 2015, 02:01:13 AM

Thanks guys, just the answer I was wanting to hear, often the answer I get is not something I want to hear.
Now to check with woodmier and get prices, but I think I will want them.

Remle · October 09, 2015, 07:03:35 PM

Quote from: starmac on October 09, 2015, 02:01:13 AM
Thanks guys, just the answer I was wanting to hear, often the answer I get is not something I want to hear.
Now to check with woodmier and get prices, but I think I will want them.

You could just move the front toe board to the other side of the rail it is attached to and move it over to the main beam. If you set it so the edge is about 2 1/2 half inches from the main rail you, will also be able to hold up the side lumber to edge it as well.

starmac · October 10, 2015, 02:54:51 AM

Quote from: Remle on October 09, 2015, 07:03:35 PM
Quote from: starmac on October 09, 2015, 02:01:13 AM

You could just move the front toe board to the other side of the rail it is attached to and move it over to the main beam. If you set it so the edge is about 2 1/2 half inches from the main rail you, will also be able to hold up

Quote from: Remle on October 09, 2015, 07:03:35 PM

The rollers is what I want, it is the ability to move the log or cant bach and forth that I like.
Quote from: starmac on October 09, 2015, 02:01:13 AM
Thanks guys, just the answer I was wanting to hear, often the answer I get is not something I want to hear.
Now to check with woodmier and get prices, but I think I will want them.
You could just move the front toe board to the other side of the rail it is attached to and move it over to the main beam. If you set it so the edge is about 2 1/2 half inches from the main rail you, will also be able to hold up the side lumber to edge it as well.