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Pine under Oak for a table.

Started by LaneC, July 30, 2018, 07:52:00 PM

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LaneC

   I was wondering about putting Pine boards under Oak boards to make a table top. If I were to put White Oak (or red oak ) boards on the top of Pine boards, would there be any issues with warping/ shrinking etc.?. This would be dried lumber from probably a big box store that is kiln dried, and both types of boards being in the same environment. It will be a regular height Dinner/Supper table, inside with air conditioning at all times, with probably an oil type finish. (have not made up my mind, just thinking right now) It may also have breadboard ends. Not sure yet. Any suggestions/comments are appreciated.
Man makes plans and God smiles

btulloh

Trouble.  They respond to seasonal wood movement at different rates. Cup like crazy until something splits.

What are you trying to achieve with that approach?  Just curious.
HM126

btulloh

By the way, if you buy oak at a big box store, you could buy twice as much at a real lumber yard and get better lumber.  The price they charge for a little red oak board is amazing.  They're charging for convenience though.  I get that.  It'd be like buying your weekly groceries at 7-11.
HM126

LaneC

    I was just trying to get a thicker top by putting the Oak over the pine. Thanks for the tip. I will not pursue this idea. Maybe I can go to the sawmill by me and ask him if he has a good slab I can buy. That would be good, but like you said convenience is kind of key. If I could (physically) I would put a lot more effort in to it. Have a few issues which is why I would get from the box store, but I will check more into the slab, or would  2 layers thick of Oak be ok? for example: put 4- 1" oak boards on top of 4 other 1"Oak boards, staggered. Hopefully this makes sense.
Man makes plans and God smiles

Ianab

Laminating same species together like that shouldn't cause any problems. If you want to save some $$ you could use lower grade oak boards for the bottom layer, and then the better ones for the side that shows. 
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

IMERC

Quote from: LaneC on July 30, 2018, 09:47:08 PMI was just trying to get a thicker top by putting the Oak over the pine.


use plywood like A/C or A/B in most any hardwood or fir..
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Brad_bb

You could laminate /glue two boards together.  Do that 4 times, then build your table from the 4 thicker boards.  Or you could buy 4 thick boards and edge glue them into a top.  They must be properly dry before hand though.  If you buy from a sawyer or lumber yard, see if they have a moisture meter to check the boards.  11-15% is normal outdoor conditions.  You need them down to 8% or so.  You could take those boards into your house assuming your house is air conditioned in summer or heated in winter, depending on when your doing this.  This will help bring them down in about 6 weeks or so.  I'm guessing but I'd rather have a moisture meter to be sure.  You want them stickered so air can flow around them. 

If you don't do this, you can see shrinkage in the project after you take it in the house.  For example, a small walnut end table I built at 11-15% and the first winter the top shrunk by 3/16".  It showed in the bread board ends - but nothing broke because if you do a bread board end properly, it will allow the movement.  I ended up trimming the ends of the breadboard and seasonally it will move 1/16" now.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

LaneC

   Thanks a bunch for all of the suggestions. I will keep coming back to this thread when I get started on this project.
Man makes plans and God smiles

Brad_bb

To clarify, when I said laminate two boards into a thicker board, I meant use the same wood for both boards.

Also remember to work with the expansion and contraction of the wood.  When wood moves seasonally due to moisture changes (air gets really dry in winter and less so in summer), it expands and contracts perpendicular to the grain. It does not grow or contract in length of the board, just width.  There are a lot of videos on youtube and articles on the web about how to do breadboards.  You do them so only one pin if fixed and the rest are slotted and not glued, to allow movement.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Ruffgear

You could also make it appear thicker. Over size by about 3" and rip 1 1/2" of each side and flip under. ( If that makes sense?)

Sprucegum

I have done what Ruffgear said, makes the table look thick and it is a lot lighter to carry if you have to move it.

LaneC

  Ok, I understand about the pin an and movement, good tip, thanks. Yep, I read it 3 times and now I understand about the flipping on the ends. :D Another good idea. I really appreciate the tips and suggestions. 
Man makes plans and God smiles

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