Upgrading to a dual v-belt drive

[beerguy]

I have a large Hudson mill. I got it because I have quite a few Big Leaf maples that I encounter and wanted a wide cut.

23 hp Briggs gas motor, 7/8 pitch WM blades.

I have issues with the largest logs, with the engine just starting to bog a bit even at slow feed speeds. Eventually the belt stops moving and the belt burns on the clutch until I can slow the motor. Sharp blade doesn't help.

I know that I should get a blade with a bigger pitch, (1.25?) but I also think a dual belt drive would help me out.

Where is a good place to look for a Centrifugal clutch with a twin belt pulley? I would like for this to be a bolt on modification.


I already found the drive pulley, looking around for a decent price on the clutch.

[StorminN]

Try Surplus Center.

Surplus Center clutches

-Norm.

[york]

Hey beerguy,

look at Logmaster mills-i found that cent-clutch on there site-want one myself...

have a cold one,Bert

[Chico]

Great site Stormin Thanks
Chico

[beerguy]

http://www.linnlumber.com/app/inventoryapp/sawmill_parts/inventory_view/68-0-74-1.html

I do not see an equivalent unit elsewhere that sits on a 1.125 shaft.

Is this price in line with what you guys expect?

[york]

these clutches are not cheap-i would call linnlumber,see if can get what you need-it looks ok.....

[bandmiller2]

Beerguy,don't know how handy you are but usally those expensive clutches can be eliminated by either a belt idler or a rocking or sliding engine base.From what you say your clutch is not slipping just the belt,try a new notched belt they seem to get better traction and keep it tighter.Belts used hard as with your application will wear and glaze fast sometimes even bottom out in the groove.Sometimes something as simple as changing belt brands will work.Frank C.

[Hilltop366]

For what it's worth.....

An often overlooked cause of belt slipping is worn pulleys, they will wear the tapered sides so they are no longer straight causing the belt to have less contact with the sides of the pulley. Also check to see if the pulleys are lined up.

It's been my experience that with belt driven equipment the smaller pulley slips and wears first because it has less surface area to contact the belt , the next thing that usually happens is over tensioning the belt to try and stop it from slipping causing excess bearing strain making the problem worse.

A possible cure is to use longer belt and a spring loaded tensioner on the slack side of the belt close to the smaller pulley this would increase the contact with the pulley, reduce bearing load and also make it run smoother because the spring would reduce the effects caused by uneven pulleys and belts.

[beerguy]

We have discussed putting a tensioner on it.

I think that we may do 'all of the above'.

I will take pics and you guys can make fun of my welding skills!

Thanks for the input.

Back to the brew....

[Firebass]

 

 

This is the clutch I used on my swingmill.  They were very helpfull.  They told me that 25HP was max a double b sized v belt could handle.  Price was good but I dont recall it exactly.  I want to say a couple hundred dollars.

Firebass

[fishpharmer]

Beerguy, not trying to hijack the post, but, I have had the same belt slippage problem. Glad to hear its not just me.  Tom, or someone told me early on that I needed two belts.  He was sure correct.  I  just changed over to double belt pulleys but use no clutch.  I use the sliding engine tensioner  shown in my photos.  I think I would prefer a clutch.

Curious to see how it works out for you.

[beerguy]

Firebass, I will check them out. Looks like a good unit.

Pharm, I do like the clutch. I will probably add a tensioner to take up slack.

Thanks for the input.

[Fla._Deadheader]

I have that type clutch you posted, on my Peterson. IF I don't use the mill for a couple 3 months, the clutch won't disengage. Right now, after sawing a BUNCH of long hard logs, the clutch is "Frozen" stuck. Won't disengage, anymore.

  We built an up/down lever type belt tightener, similar to Wood Mizers, only we push the lever down to tighten, doing away with the "Popeye" arm and bad shoulders result that you get with the older model WoodMizers. Pics in my Gallery.

We used a 5V type belt-pulley arrangement on our mill. It uses 1 belt, and, I can guarantee, that with proper adjustment, it will NOT slip. I can stop the engine in it's tracks, if I crowd the blade too much. NO SLIP. Got it from Grainger.

[york]

Fla_Dh

you have that type clutch?and will not work after not using it,for awhile...have or can you take it apart and service it??

Am interested,because,i thought i wanted one on my mill....

thanks,Bert

[Fla._Deadheader]

Mine looks like that one.  ??? ???

The Peterson folks posted about breaking it loose. I never bothered. It HAS worked, but, the mill sat for over 6 months, and, I can't remember if it was working right before that or not.

  That's one reason we fabbed the break-over type , on the bandmill. Simple, cheap, works every time. GOOD safety feature, as you can SEE it's not tensioned.

[bandmiller2]

Bert, thats an expensive clutch I'am sure its rebuildable,and can be freed up.My own mill uses a belt tensioner like FDH describes mine is an over center type {goes just beyond the tightest point and self locks].The tensioner pulleys used on cars today work well if aligned right. Frank C.