Building a mill.. FIRST LOG WAS A SUCCESS!!

[jwh f-100]

I wanted to do something just like that but I found the engine, drivewheel pulleys, and belts got in the way of doing that. Have you thought about how you are going to run those?

The engine will be between the upright square tubing. The drive belt will turn the driveside band wheel. (same as woodland mill)

[Crusarius]

ok. so your drive belt will be on one side of the upright and the mill on the other?

[jwh f-100]

2 pulleys total.  Like this..

[jwh f-100]

Hey all. I plan to get some major progress this weekend on my mill..

I have searched, read, and studied how my band wheels should be aligned.  I know the internet is usually 100% accurate (hehehe), but I'm finding mixed results on this one. I'm using the 19" pulleys.

Should they be completely true to each other?? Or should they be slightly forward on the inside??

Thanks

[Crusarius]

I do not know the answer to that question. I adjusted mine till the blade stayed on and was tracking where I wanted it.

[Kbeitz]

I line them up so they are straight across from each other
and them make it so you can adjust tilt from right to left
facing each wheel.

[jwh f-100]

I line them up so they are straight across from each other
and them make it so you can adjust tilt from right to left
facing each wheel.

That's what I was thinking/hoping. Thanks for the reassurance.. Using 1/2" bolts with my pillow blocks will give me about 5/16" of adjustment (doubled if moving both ends).. I think Ill run with that and not add slots to the mounting pad areas.. Thanks

[pineywoods]

Whichever way you go, make it stout. Remember that a fully tensioned blade will put 2 or 3 thousand pounds of force on those pillow block mounts...

[jwh f-100]

Whichever way you go, make it stout. Remember that a fully tensioned blade will put 2 or 3 thousand pounds of force on those pillow block mounts...

It will be rugged for sure..

[jwh f-100]

I was able to get quite a bit done on the saw head today.. The sliding tensioner side isn't quite complete so I didn't include..

[Kwill]

Looking good. I like the receiver hitch pieces. Don't have to worry about the weld on the inside.

[Kbeitz]

I would put slots in you'r bearing mounting plate at least on
the wheel side with a pusher bolt on the back. That will give
you a little toe adjustment. Best to have on both wheels.

[jwh f-100]

Looking good. I like the receiver hitch pieces. Don't have to worry about the weld on the inside.

That was my hope as well but I did have to clean up the welds a little..

I would put slots in you'r bearing mounting plate at least on
the wheel side with a pusher bolt on the back. That will give
you a little toe adjustment. Best to have on both wheels.

That's the plan at this point..

[jwh f-100]

Hey all, I am getting ready for the next step- building the roller chassis.

My saw will be a 2 post set up with heavy braces down to the rear..    Once the top horizontal cross bar and rear braces are welded into place the saw head has it's "forever home".  Does anyone see an advantage to fabricating is so the saw head cam be removed??

[Crusarius]

are you talking about removing the entire carriage? I am planning on doing that with my mill so I have a 24' long trailer for picking up steel when I need to. My other thought was to build a small section of track in a shed just big enough for the entire carriage so I could put the head in the shed and just leave the trailer outside.

I don't know how much of a pain it will be but thats my idea.

[jwh f-100]

are you talking about removing the entire carriage? I am planning on doing that with my mill so I have a 24' long trailer for picking up steel when I need to. My other thought was to build a small section of track in a shed just big enough for the entire carriage so I could put the head in the shed and just leave the trailer outside.

I don't know how much of a pain it will be but thats my idea.

I mean remove the saw head from the rolling chassis...

As far as removing the whole saw from the bed- I plan to set it up with pins, and a top link bracket so I cam move  the saw with my 3 point hitch. I want to be able to park in doors..

[Crusarius]

only reason I made mine removable is for the inevitable chunk of bark that gets lodged in the slides causing me problems. That and be nice to repaint the mast once in a while. Plus I am not a big fan of what I did so I feel in the future it will be changed.

[Jack S]

I built my shed off the end of my mill and made two separate angle iron tracks. I roll the mill carriage in the shed then remove one section     ( four 3/8 cap screws) and then shut the door when I want to lock up.




 

 

 

[Kwill]

I built my shed off the end of my mill and made two separate angle iron tracks. I roll the mill carriage in the shed then remove one section     ( four 3/8 cap screws) and then shut the door when I want to lock up.




 

 

I like this idea. Looks great

[jwh f-100]

I am going to go ahead and weld the saw head chassis at all points. If I ever need to dismantle I'll just cut it apart.. Pretty much every pic I've found show's others doing the same..

I built my shed off the end of my mill and made two separate angle iron tracks. I roll the mill carriage in the shed then remove one section     ( four 3/8 cap screws) and then shut the door when I want to lock up.

Nice looking set up.. I have thought about this but I may try to steer clear of more buildings..  My saw will probably be set up so I can easily move into my existing shop/building..   In my area, any little structure is considered a building and taxes are raised.. Little tin garden buildings are taxed. Crappy little animal shelters are taxes. Unlicensed camper trailers are taxes...  UH OH Im getting side tracked..

[Jack S]

Yep its easy to get sidetracked and you are young yet. wait till you hit 75. In NC we can build up to 12 x 12 without a permit so it worked for me. My setup is so easy plus when it gets to cluttered with crap I just move the main frame out of the way and clean up with the frontend loader and start over. also a removable tongue so that its all clear in the working area.   Jack

[jwh f-100]

Hey all. Would love to see pictures of where you located your head lifting winch.. Pros and cons welcome.. Thanks in advance. :-)

[Kbeitz]

With cover removed. Powered with a wheelchair motor.



 

[Crusarius]

I mounted mine on top of the carriage. But I am using acme threaded rod with #40 chain for raising and lowering. I will get a picture when I update my build thread.

[jwh f-100]

I mounted mine on top of the carriage. But I am using acme threaded rod with #40 chain for raising and lowering. I will get a picture when I update my build thread.

That's where mine may end up.. I'm just concerned it will be too high up. I am tall so reaching isn't an issue if standing up straight. But I wont be standing up straight while lining up the last couple boards..

I may also put it on the rear "leg" of the carriage but that will slow the winch as it will add one more contact/pulley..

Decisions decisions..