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Building a mill.. FIRST LOG WAS A SUCCESS!!

Started by jwh f-100, January 12, 2018, 01:31:50 PM

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jwh f-100

Hey all! Im in the beginning stages of a sawmill build.. Do you folks welcome/like to see the progress??
Why buy it when you can build it.

Jeff

As long as you keep it all in one topic!  :D
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Kbeitz

Bring it on... I enjoy reading about what other people build.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Oliver05262

Oliver Durand
"You can't do wrong by doing good"
It's OK to cry.
I never did say goodby to my invisible friend.
"I woke up still not dead again today" Willy
Don't use force-get a bigger hammer.

Hilltop366


Darrel

I like'm!  Someday I might even build sumpthin and build a thread to go with it.
1992 LT40HD

If I don't pick myself up by my own bootstraps, nobody else will.

Ljohnsaw

John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

jwh f-100

Despite 15 deg. weather I started mocking things up today.

I decided to use 18.75 pulleys. I considered 12" trailer tires but I felt with the tires there would be too many variables for inconsistencies. Also if you are buying supplies the tires are not any cheaper.

I plan to drive the blade off the "pull side" pulley as I've seen on manufactured band mills. I plan to use a cintrifical clutch.

The one thing I am considering is to use a tensioner rather than just an idler. As things wear or heat up I'm thinking the tensioner would keep the blade tight and would also make changing the belt easier.. Thoughts?








Why buy it when you can build it.

Kbeitz

What size shafting are you using. It looks small.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

jwh f-100

Quote from: Kbeitz on January 13, 2018, 06:15:13 PM
What size shafting are you using. It looks small.

I'm using 1" shaft. Pictured is small round-stock for mock up only..
Why buy it when you can build it.

Kbeitz

Quote from: jwh f-100 on January 13, 2018, 06:19:28 PM
Quote from: Kbeitz on January 13, 2018, 06:15:13 PM
What size shafting are you using. It looks small.

I'm using 1" shaft. Pictured is small round-stock for mock up only..

If using standard cold roll round you will need close to 2" shafting.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Ljohnsaw

Quote from: jwh f-100 on January 13, 2018, 05:51:15 PM
I plan to drive the blade off the "pull side" pulley as I've seen on manufactured band mills. I plan to use a cintrifical clutch.

The one thing I am considering is to use a tensioner rather than just an idler. As things wear or heat up I'm thinking the tensioner would keep the blade tight and would also make changing the belt easier.. Thoughts?
You MUST pull the blade through the wood, you can't push it.  The blade tension will not be consistent if you try to push it and your cut quality will suffer.

I had two vehicles get their timing belts changed and had them keep the tensioner and idler pulleys for me.  They are really just rollers.  I used one on my sawmill - works great.  Since it is flat, you will need a way to adjust the pivot angle so the belt tracks ok.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

FloridaMike

1" shaft will bend, not an if, only a matter of how many minutes of run time.  You need to run too much band tension for the 1" shaft to handle.  1-7/16" to 1-1/2" is normally considered the minimum. 

As shown in your pic, you want to power the wheel on the right side of the engine (which pulls the blade through the cut, assuming a counter clockwise engine rotation).  I think that is what you said you were planning to do.

You will need to have thick skin while running a build thread, as you will get a bunch of "tough love suggestions" that sometimes conflict.  At the end of the day... remember you are paying the bills... so you call the shots!
Mike

jwh f-100

Thanks all.

My blade will be pulled through the cut.

I will strongly consider upgrading the shaft size. My front pillow blocks will be extremely close to the pulley but that may not eliminate issues..
Why buy it when you can build it.

Kbeitz

Someone else on the forum made a mill with 1" shafting.
It kept breaking every time he tried using it.

I have one of the smallest shafts for a build. 30mm.
But its high carbon steel bearing shafting.
It cost a lot more that standard shafting.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Hilltop366

Good idea mocking things up on the bench.

If the pillow block bearings were placed on each side of the band wheels as close together as possible a 1" shaft may work but it might be a pain to change belts.

Den-Den

+1 on using larger shaft
Strength of the shaft is not the only issue
*  Deflection of a small shaft will cause blade tracking issues
*  Bearing life will be a big issue unless they are large or very expensive

Deflection & strength issues can be reduced by putting the wheels BETWEEN the bearings but that would require a design change.
You may think that you can or may think you can't; either way, you are right.

kenfrommaine

I built my mill and used a 1" shaft, I had bought the shaft on ebay and it did bend. I replaced it with a 1" shaft of steel bought at a local steel shop and have been using it since last june with no issues. I am running 20" steel band wheels from an old industrial sized vertical band saw. Also has an 18hp motor. Mostly sawing pine or hemlock.

jwh f-100

Thanks all for the input. I'll go to 1 1/2".
Why buy it when you can build it.

jwh f-100

I like the idea of a hand winch to raise and lower the saw head. Simple and dependable..

I am hoping each click of the winch will be a specific increment.

For those using a hand winch --  When the spool becomes full of cable, larger in diameter, do you find and issue with landing on your mark????

Thanks
Why buy it when you can build it.

Jeff

That shouldn't be an issue. Your only using 3 foot of cable to raise a mill full height
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Crusarius

I ended up with acme threaded rod for raise and lower. Some ways I wish I had gone simple with a winch but have to much invested not to change.

Kbeitz

Just a thought... If you use a worm driven winch you wont have
to worry about the handle getting away from you.
Only around $40.00 on E-bay. When you let go of the handle
it stays where you left it.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

Jeff

And you could make it powered by taking off the handle and using a cordless screw gun.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

jwh f-100

Quote from: Jeff on January 15, 2018, 02:11:29 PM
That shouldn't be an issue. Your only using 3 foot of cable to raise a mill full height

That's what I was thinking but wanted to send it out for others thoughts.. I think it will be very minimal change, which will be divided when the cable is attached in multiple spots..

Quote from: Kbeitz on January 15, 2018, 03:09:28 PM
Just a thought... If you use a worm driven winch you wont have
to worry about the handle getting away from you.
Only around $40.00 on E-bay. When you let go of the handle
it stays where you left it.

Well good. Because that's what I just ordered from HF..   I liked the looks of the handle on the front. 

Thanks all
Why buy it when you can build it.

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