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30x30 Monitor barn build

Started by captain1971, May 10, 2016, 03:07:47 PM

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captain1971

Hello All,
      The wife and I have decided to build a Monitor style barn 30x30. Initially we planned on purchasing PT 6x6x10s and 6x6x16s for the poles, then I found someone selling 20 utility poles for 10 bucks a piece. My thoughts are milling them with my chainsaw mill, and being that I am a novice sawyer, we are wanting advice on this.
    The saw is a husqvarna 445 with an 18 in bar and I will be using a Logosol timber jig milling attachment. As I mentioned I am a novice sawyer, I have a few questions and concerns about milling utility poles ( I will attach photos of the poles). I have been reading that all utility pole are not the same , different types of treatment and different types of trees are used in making utility poles, so my question is which poles would be best suited for my needs? I talked to the seller and he told me that he has salt treated poles and creosote poles ( the salt treated poles are $15 per 20ft). I want to mention that we are not burying the poles but pouring piers and setting Simpson strong tie post bases.
     Any thoughts, advice, concerns or suggestions are welcome.
   Thanks
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derhntr

Power poles have some nasty chemicals in them.
2006 Woodmizer LT40HDG28 with command control (I hate walking in sawdust)
US Army National Guard (RET) SFC

Brad_bb

I know a guy with one of those.  He's limited on diameter he can cut.  It's not very fast.  Are you trying to save money or wanting to have more involvement yourself?  If the latter, then go for it.  If you're trying to save money, remember that it will take you more time, work, capital investment with the mill fixture, chains, etc. 
You don't want to use treated power poles, but you can use untreated poles.  There are cedar poles out there.  Not sure what the original poster (OP) was looking at for $10ea.

I wouldn't use PT for the frame.  It's not necessary except for maybe the sill beams if your design even calls for sill beams.  If you want the utility poles cut efficiently, have a local or portable sawyer cut for you.  They will also need to be checked for metal with a metal detector.  The sawyer might be able to help you with that, otherwise you'll need to drop $150 for a lumber wizard 4, and learn how to remove nails and other metal objects.  Another option would be buying timbers cut to size by a local sawyer.  Talk to one or a few and find out the costs involved. 

If you want to be more involved and cut your own wood, I would consider an Grandberg or other Alaskan type mill.  It's portable and would allow you to take it to the wood, and cut bigger logs.  Warning: the next step up would be a bandsaw mill, and milling can be addictive. You'll find yourself unconsciously scanning for downed trees as you drive around, stopping to find out if you can have that yard tree.  Then you'll find yourself buying a trailer and building a log arch on the back for loading. You
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Joe Hillmann

If I were planning to build a pole shed with utility poles I would use them as they come.  Just cut them to length then use them round.  Of course that won't work if you want the inside of the barn to be nice.  I don't think I would be willing to saw a utility pole on my mill.

fishfighter

Quote from: Joe Hillmann on May 10, 2016, 04:28:36 PM
If I were planning to build a pole shed with utility poles I would use them as they come.  Just cut them to length then use them round.  Of course that won't work if you want the inside of the barn to be nice.  I don't think I would be willing to saw a utility pole on my mill.

This for sure. I was going to saw some, but years ago I did power line work. Those days of all the burns dealing with polls changed my mine in a heart beat. :o

Chuck White

The creosote or whatever other chemicals are in power poles doesn't go all the way through.

If you peel off 2-3 inches, you'll be into unpreserved wood!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

Kbeitz

I think you would give up after the first couple of feet into the pole.
Cutting any wood with creosote is very very hard to do with a chain saw.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

captain1971

Quote from: Brad_bb on May 10, 2016, 04:24:16 PM
I know a guy with one of those.  He's limited on diameter he can cut.  It's not very fast.  Are you trying to save money or wanting to have more involvement yourself?  If the latter, then go for it.  If you're trying to save money, remember that it will take you more time, work, capital investment with the mill fixture, chains, etc. 
You don't want to use treated power poles, but you can use untreated poles.  There are cedar poles out there.  Not sure what the original poster (OP) was looking at for $10ea.

I wouldn't use PT for the frame.  It's not necessary except for maybe the sill beams if your design even calls for sill beams.  If you want the utility poles cut efficiently, have a local or portable sawyer cut for you.  They will also need to be checked for metal with a metal detector.  The sawyer might be able to help you with that, otherwise you'll need to drop $150 for a lumber wizard 4, and learn how to remove nails and other metal objects.  Another option would be buying timbers cut to size by a local sawyer.  Talk to one or a few and find out the costs involved. 

If you want to be more involved and cut your own wood, I would consider an Grandberg or other Alaskan type mill.  It's portable and would allow you to take it to the wood, and cut bigger logs.  Warning: the next step up would be a bandsaw mill, and milling can be addictive. You'll find yourself unconsciously scanning for downed trees as you drive around, stopping to find out if you can have that yard tree.  Then you'll find yourself buying a trailer and building a log arch on the back for loading. You

With the Logosol timber jig the diameter you can cut depends on the length of your chainsaw bar, if you plan on using the depth gauge then yes I think you are limited to 11 or 12 inches. I would opt not to use the depth gauge and instead I will just move my saw guide with each cut.
I will also be able to pick throught the poles, and will use a metal detector sweep the poles, and chose poles with little or no metal objects.
My objective is to save money.

47sawdust

Save yourself a lot of trouble and use the poles as they are.A lot of pole barns have been built that way.Plans should be available from a county/state extension agent or the U.S Forest Service.
Mick
1997 WM Lt30 1999 WM twin blade edger Kubota L3750 Tajfun winchGood Health Work is my hobby.

5quarter

   Agree with 47sawdust. Use your saw to cut the notches for framing. I'm putting up a 12x12 wood shed in a similar fashion and it looks great.
What is this leisure time of which you speak?
Blue Harbor Refinishing

Skip

They used to, don't now if they still, treat them with inorganic arsenic BAD stuff. I hauled many a load of them up from the Carolinas. I would not saw them for any amount. Creasote is just as bad if not worse.  I don't think a 455 is a big enough saw . Sorry to be so negative just trying to give a heads up,

Brad_bb

Once again, there are treated poles and untreated poles (cedar) out there.  Not all poles are treated.  I've seen Rooster up in wisconsin have untreated poles milled into beams and use them in a timberframe.  I think stumpy have cut some for him on his woodmizer.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

tnaz

I did not know what a Monitor Barn was/is; these are nice.  Now I want to build one too.

https://youtu.be/Vxt5TjukPfw

Terry

Chuck White

Neat lookin' building!

Someone locally built one about 8-10 miles from us.

Part of it is house, part of it is garage.

Kind of like a "monitor barn" with a twist!  ;)
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

richhiway

Use the poles as they are. Lots of buildings are built from poles in my area. Not only are poles treated to preserve them, many times they have holes drilled from time to time and injected with pesticides. If you saw them wear a respirator.
Woodmizer LT 40
New Holland 35 hp tractor
Stihl Chainsaws
Ford 340 Backhoe

starmac

455 coupled with a mill. I have a 455 and use it around the mill to trim off a branch or something, mainly trying to use it enough to justify owning it. I can't see trying to mill poles with one.
Old LT40HD, old log truck, old MM forklift, and several huskies.

barbender

     If you are using concrete posts, you really don't need to use treated poles. If the poles you have available are treated, I wouldn't mill them.
Too many irons in the fire

captain1971

So with everyone's advise we will not be milling the poles. I live out in the country and the and dont need an inspection as long as the barn does not exceed 1500 sq feet, so we don't have to be to concerned about building code. Our plan as of now is to dig post holes at 4 feet deep, I am wondering is there really a need for me to encase the poles in concrete or would it be better just to fill them with gravel and tamp them down? Or could we just backfill them with dirt and tamp it down?  Opinions, thoughts and  advise  are welcome!
  Thanks  David 

One thing i forgot to mention is that later we will be pouring a concrete slab down the center aisle.

47sawdust

Don't know where you live or your soil conditions,but I would pour a footing for each post,let it harden,and then set the poles.Then back fill and tamp to grade.
Mick
1997 WM Lt30 1999 WM twin blade edger Kubota L3750 Tajfun winchGood Health Work is my hobby.

Chuck White

~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

woodworker9

My shop is built with laminated posts, like a pole barn, and the part of the posts that goes into the ground is pressure treated 2X6's (3 of them) held together with clinch nails.  They are sunken into the ground into a post hole that is 54" deep, with a 6" concrete "cookie" for the post to sit on at the bottom.

It's a good ideal to fill the bottom of your holes first with some gravel to get the water away from the bottom of the posts.  It's also a great idea, and a requirement here by code, to nail 2X6 cross T's 12" long at the bottom of the post.  1 on each side, or 2 per post.  This creates an anchor  at the bottom of the post, and in extremely windy conditions, prevents your post from being pulled out of the ground by strong winds creating lift on your building.

Always back fill with well tamped soil, not gravel.  The posts will pull up easily through gravel.....not at all with dirt.  My shop is 16 years old now, and still looks brand new....with a slightly weathered look on the siding.   ;)
03' LT40HD25 Kohler hydraulic w/ accuset
MS 441, MS 290, New Holland L185

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