Cutting curved stock for timber frame buildings.

[Jim_Rogers]

I mentioned, in another thread, that my logger had brought in some curved logs that I was going to haul out of the junk pile and saw them up for brace stock for timber framed buildings.

Here is those logs:



I laid out my tape and decided I'd cut the long one off at 14' 6" so that it would remove the bend at the end of the log on this end close to the camera, the top end of the log.

You can see my lumber crayon at the red mark on the log.

I rolled the short one over and did the same thing again:



Here is the butt end of the second shorter piece:



I cut the wart off and trimmed the end flush.

And I cut both top ends off them to make it a nice clean ends:



I loaded the short one up first:



And you can see that it will clear the outside roller guides on both ends. And you can also see the 1" board I put under it to make it some what level.

Here it is after the first cut:



After that I flipped it over and checked to see if the blade roller guides would clear on both the outside and the inside:



Next I cut the second side flat:



Here are the two pieces ready for sale to a timber framer who need curved brace stock:



After lunch I'm going to cut the long one using the same method.

I'll post a picture later on of it when it's all done.

Jim Rogers

[SPD748]

Very interesting cut Jim. I'm looking forward to seeing the finished product!

-lee

[Jim_Rogers]

I may never see the finished product.

If I sell these pieces to a timber framer, that maybe the last time I see them.

I have posted other pictures of curved brace stock in other threads here on the forestry forum.

You may have to do a search to find them.

Jim Rogers

[Chuck White]

Good work Jim.

I've done a couple of those for slab tables.

Nice project!

[Mark Wentzell]

Are curved braces just for looks or are they stronger than straight ones ? Does the tension/ compression wood affect how the braces will behave when worked with?

It's great to see logs like that made into something more than firewood.

[Bibbyman]

We get logs in like that.  But people expect straight lumber out of them!

[Satamax]

All i'm thinking when i see this, is cruck!

[Migal]

We get logs in like that.  But people expect straight lumber out of them!

But did they expect to pay so much ? for elegant wood as this ....?  8)

[Jim_Rogers]

Round Log #2:



And:



Did I mention that these curved logs are hard to roll over?



Well they are at times.....



I had to reload.....





The sweep in this log was about 30".



Now I just need someone to buy them.....

Jim Rogers

[Jim_Rogers]

Are curved braces just for looks or are they stronger than straight ones?

Well, that's could be hard to answer. I like the looks of them in a timber frame, and they wouldn't be any stronger than straight ones as far as I know.

Does the tension/ compression wood affect how the braces will behave when worked with?

I didn't have any problems with the ones I cut, when I did finally use them.

Here is a picture of how the first ones I did came out in the frame:



In this picture you can see how much extra head clearance you get with curved braces:



When we completed this frame, I was able to walk under that brace with my shoulder against the post and the brace did not knock my hat off. It was much better for space inside the frame.

Jim Rogers

[mikeb1079]

very cool jim, thanks for the post and pics.  so your buyer then just cuts the braces to whatever size he needs?  i mean he doesn't bandsaw them down further?

[Chilterns]

Hi Jim,

I like it !    What kind of timber is that ?

Given the difficulty experienced with flipping the log - might this suggest that an Alaskan type chain saw mill might be more appropriate for undertaking this kind of curved work especially on the longer pieces ?

It's definitely cruck material !

Chilterns

[Jim_Rogers]

very cool jim, thanks for the post and pics.  so your buyer then just cuts the braces to whatever size he needs? 

Yes. That would be one option.

I mean he doesn't bandsaw them down further?

He could if he needs to, but most just draw knife off the bark and get it back to clean white wood.

Jim Rogers

[Magicman]

I recently sawed one that is going in the customer's shop.  His overhead winch will attach to the highest point.

[Jim_Rogers]

What kind of timber is that ?

Eastern white pine.

Given the difficulty experienced with flipping the log - might this suggest that an Alaskan type chain saw mill might be more appropriate for undertaking this kind of curved work especially on the longer pieces ?

Of course that would work. And I would use one if I had one, but I use what I have to do the job at hand.

Jim Rogers

[bandmiller2]

Years ago their was quite a demand for curved pieces from wood boat builders.Larch knees were popular in Maine. Those curved pieces would make an interesting bench. Frank C.

[Delawhere Jack]

GOOD GAWD, FUNKY CHICKEN, OWWWW!!!! 

Funny thing is, you'll probably find a buyer, and be able to get a premium for them.  ;D

[Jim_Rogers]

Years ago their was quite a demand for curved pieces from wood boat builders.Larch knees were popular in Maine. Those curved pieces would make an interesting bench. Frank C.

I have made some curved benches with pieces shaped like this, before, for a landscaping company.

Jim Rogers

[Farmboy]

This looks great.  I have a piece of yellow cedar that I have been wanting to mill for some time.  Unfortunately the curve is too great for it to fit on my mill.  Any suggestions as to how I could mill it?  It is approx. 24" in diameter.

[Jim_Rogers]

If you start with one end lined up so that you can cut through it, then you can shift it over after you cut pass the mid point.
Put a chain around the cut end and pull it over with a tractor or back hoe and support that end without pulling the log off the mill.
Pull it back until the other end pivots over enough to saw through, with the blade still in the log.
This will be a challenge to get it done but once you have one flat side it goes a lot easier.

Good luck, Jim Rogers

[Brad_bb]

Jim, In the last two weeks I've acquired a bunch of curved walnut like this. I sealed the ends.  Am about to start milling it for brace stock.  I'm going to cut a bit oversize in case it moves a bit while it start to dry.  That way I can come back and clean it up. Question:  What do you do about the pith?  do you remove it or try to split down the center of it?  if you remove it, how much do you remove?

Thank you,
Brad

[Jim_Rogers]

That will all depend on what size the log is to begin with. It would most likely be better to remove the pith from both halves. To do that you're going to have to remove at lease one or two boards from the middle of the log.
I would measure the small end of the curved piece and see how big it is. Then figure your finial size of your brace stock. Are you don't 3" or 4"? are you going to add for shrinkage? like 1/8" and saw them 3 1/8" or 4 1/8"? if so then you need to double that and add 1 1/4" to cut out a board of 1 1/8" from the middle and hopefully it will contain the pith.
If the log is large enough take out two in the middle and it most likely, if lined up right, take the pith out.
Good luck
Jim Rogers

[fishfighter]

Sawed a live oak branch yesterday that had a good curve. Was a bear to do being my mill max cut is only 26", but I got it done and some fine lumber and a very nice bench seat.

Oh, got the idea from one of your old post Jim. Thanks.

Here is a picture or two.


 



  

 



 

[Brad_bb]

Another question Jim.  When sawing the curved Walnut, I presume I should take the bark off since I'm going to put them in the barn for a couple months or longer before they're used.  Is that correct to take the bark off?

Also, when cutting stickers for these, is it ok if there is sapwood in the sticker?  I presume that's not a problem for staining or discoloration is it?  I also figured that I'd fog the stack wtih Tim-Bor. I don't want beetles boring holes in the sapwood of the walnut or holes in the couple cherry I have either.

[Jim_Rogers]

Normally, when logs dry out the bark falls off. You can remove it whenever you feel you should.

I would only use "dry" stickers to stick any timbers. I don't believe it will matter if they are heartwood or sapwood, but they have to be dry. Wet stickers on wet wood is not good.

Jim Rogers