The Dovetail learning curve on curves

[prittgers]

David and I spent most of our Saturday learning how to dovetail 2 sided logs and D logs.  We're using an MP100 from WoodMizer and Charlie's really wonderful Great Northern Dovetailer.  http://www.gndovetail.com/

The challenge is two-fold.  1). we want to have less gap between courses. 2). we want to have 2-sided logs. 

We think Charlie can help with #1.  Because it is a compound miter, getting the flat part of the joint inset into the curve of the log profile is a challenge.

Has anyone out there done dovetails on 2-sided logs?  What is your advice?



 

[warren46]

David and I spent most of our Saturday learning how to dovetail 2 sided logs and D logs.  We're using an MP100 from WoodMizer and Charlie's really wonderful Great Northern Dovetailer.  http://www.gndovetail.com/

The challenge is two-fold.  1). we want to have less gap between courses. 2). we want to have 2-sided logs. 

We think Charlie can help with #1.  Because it is a compound miter, getting the flat part of the joint inset into the curve of the log profile is a challenge.

Has anyone out there done dovetails on 2-sided logs?  What is your advice?



 

When making dovetails on curved pieces of furniture I often cut the dovetails before I mill the curved face.  It should work making D-logs as well.

[prittgers]

Thank you, Warren, for your comment.  It looks like you have the right answer because the Dovetailer is designed to dovetail a rectangular object.  We could then mill the inside and outside face using the MP100 Woodmizer Moulder Planer.  I have a new one arriving next week and will post photos if it's successful enough we're not dripping with embarrassment. 

[drobertson]

What warren said make perfect sense to me as well.  Once the angles are on, you are free and clear to mold away.  Never done it, but it makes sense.