I run a Gearmatic 19 winch on an international S8A skidder. Lately when I pull a hitch up to the arch the winch continues to reel in even after I release the winch lever . It only seems to do it when there is a load on it. If there are no logs , it stops fine . Any ideas what it could be ???
No one has ever had this problem ?
when mine did that the lining on the clutch band was shot
What was the cure , new clutch band ?
yep just look at them when you pull the cover off they will wear on even some times and that's what made mine stick only when there was a load never empty sometimes the bands will brake and a piece will jam in there just right also the inner band is hard to see with out taking the spider off but its not hard to do
On mine (a dozer) the lining came off the band. Then grabbed in between.
On my taylor the brake band came apart and did it.
The cams on the clutch band may just be out of adjustment.
What's involved in adjusting them ?
when adjusting them use a hack saw blade put it between the drum and band so it moves freely you need a screw driver and a good 6point socket stay away from 12 point they will strip the head of the bolt my outer band was the one that was making it stick don't know why it wore out so fast as it was not adjusted as tight as the inner but the lining on the outer band was a softer compound than the inner and was down to the metal and would stick fast with a load it worked fine with out a load how does it free spool if the bands are to tight it will wind in by its self
The drum can warp as well. Sometimes you have to adjust the cams by eye and feel. You can run the winch with the side cover off and watch it.
just watch that little nipple don't push out when trying to winch one of my winches you can put all the pressure on you want it wont pop out the other one just a little pressure and the dam thing is out and fluid all over ::)
On my 380 I just stick a felling wedge between the gland tube and the frame to hold it in. Idk how the IH is set up.
My hydraulic swivel, and the two little ball bearings were buggered up, plus the flange on the back of the gland plate snapped off at the o-ring groove when I went to remove it. So I converted it to use a 1/4" S-series Parker live swivel. Easily rebuildable and only $25 on e-bay. Drilled out the thick gland plate and threaded it internally 1" NPT, then screwed in a 1" x 1/4" bushing and the swivel. Works great, but I did have to make a bump-out in the gland cover because it stick out a little further. I sealed the gland plate and shim (I only have one) to the shaft end with Locktite 518 before torquing it down.