Mighty Mite 4B Owners and modifications made

[LaserZX]

I am wondering if there are any Mighty Mite 4B Owners on here?

I am looking for pictures and diagrams  or such of any modifications or improvements members have made.

[woodbill2]

I used to own one. The only modification I made to it was sawing off the log dog. That's probably not what you had in mind. Member sgschwend had one also and made many modifications to his. Perhaps he will chime in. Or you could use the search feature  and probably find some of the threads that he started.

[LaserZX]

I need the log dog too much.  The previous owners tried to do the same but did not succeed.   I placed a orange marker under the measurement guide as a reminder not to saw below 4 inches without checking it.   I have found very little info on the Mighty Mite.  I did see the member's modification and his saw on u tube.    My next project will be changing the B 57 belts soon.

[sgschwend]

I did do a few improvements:
As to the drive belts, I modified the clutch so it had twice the throw, in doing so I could remove or greatly simplify the clutch setup (all those pins) and adjustments.  I also switch to motor shims that have through holes, adding a hard rubber part to reduce vibration.  These two changes really make the clutch work easier and stay in adjustment even as the belts changes, due to normal wear.

Removed the brake lever that interfered with the log, didn't really see any use for it.

Switched the drawback arm from a bolt to a quick release pin, then I could drop the arm to obtain a deeper cut.

Replaced the iron housing on the self centering bearing on the tension wheel to a steel one, the factory has done this too, but if you have an older machine you will likely have an iron housing.  The iron is too brittle for the job, so a shock (such as knocking the saw off) will crack it, a bad thing.

Remove the factory feed speed flow control valve and placed another one where it belongs after the hydraulic motor.

Added flow control valves to the setwork cylinder, so that the up and down setwork speed can be independently adjusted.

Wrapped the vent with aluminum tap so that when towing the mill the hydraulic oil would not be sucked out.

Built my own saw guides from off the self parts, using larger diameter bearings which can handle larger loads, giving better stability to the saw.

Added a remote feed speed function to the wired remote.

I very much enjoyed using that mill, it is a big heavy machine that really put the work out!

[LaserZX]

I did do a few improvements:  That might be a big understatement.  Maybe some redesigns would be accurate.
As to the drive belts, I modified the clutch so it had twice the throw, in doing so I could remove or greatly simplify the clutch setup (all those pins) and adjustments.  I also switch to motor shims that have through holes, adding a hard rubber part to reduce vibration.  These two changes really make the clutch work easier and stay in adjustment even as the belts changes, due to normal wear.
I have to check mine out to know enough to ask any questions on that one.

Removed the brake lever that interfered with the log, didn't really see any use for it.
I will do that since you had not use for it and I never found any either.

Switched the drawback arm from a bolt to a quick release pin, then I could drop the arm to obtain a deeper cut.
I have to find that location.
Replaced the iron housing on the self centering bearing on the tension wheel to a steel one, the factory has done this too, but if you have an older machine you will likely have an iron housing.  The iron is too brittle for the job, so a shock (such as knocking the saw off) will crack it, a bad thing.
My saw is about 2001 or 2002     IS this a wheel where the blade rides and turns. 
Remove the factory feed speed flow control valve and placed another one where it belongs after the hydraulic motor.
Do you have a pic or where and how I find that one.
Added flow control valves to the setwork cylinder, so that the up and down setwork speed can be independently adjusted.
I believe I saw your pic on that.  That would be a good plus.      Do you have a parts list needed for this mod.
Wrapped the vent with aluminum tap so that when towing the mill the hydraulic oil would not be sucked out.

Built my own saw guides from off the self parts, using larger diameter bearings which can handle larger loads, giving better stability to the saw.

Added a remote feed speed function to the wired remote. 
I have 6 wires into my remote that looks like your except there is no toggle switch for Forward and Reverse.     I could install the new switch but would I have to run a new wire or is there some way to jump inside the box.

I very much enjoyed using that mill, it is a big heavy machine that really put the work out!

I like this mill and it is more than enough for me to do about anything I want to do.     The lack of info and the poorly organized manual does not help much.    Hopefully there are more owners on here to add more.

[sgschwend]

The two self aligning bearing are on the follower wheel, not the drive wheel, yes it is the 19" wheel that the saw runs on.  The bearing are on a slide.  Only the front one needs to be changed (the one closets to the wheel).

the hydraulic motor is where the flow control valve is placed.  Just removed the line (I think it is the rear one of the two) and plumb the valve to the motor and re-attach the hydraulic line. 

You can test to make sure you have the correct line by removing the rear line setting the speed to minimum and momentarily putting the sawhead in forward feed.  The oil should come out of the motor not the line.  If so then you have the right line.

I added a additional cable, vinyl tapped to the existing line.  An extension cord makes a good cable for this.  But there is other hardware need too, since you are remoting the turning of the knob on flow control valve.