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How would you do it?

Started by CabinCreations, February 06, 2019, 11:08:35 AM

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CabinCreations

After clearing the site and pondering all the options for the new building, I had an idea - however I am not sure it is a good idea (or even practical) so I thought all of you may be able to chime in again!

So the site is on a slope (approximately 1-1/8" to 1' or a drop of 3' over the 32' anticipated length of the building). After reading more threads on here and pondering the construction of the old circle mill on the property, I thought I may be able to use the natural slope to my advantage for a portable mill by building flooring above grade instead of leveling and building on grade. 

My thought on advantages:
1. Not walking on concrete
2. No drainage issues
3. Downhill offloading of slabs and boards
4. Easy sawdust cleanup and potential storage under the building

My though on disadvantages:
1. Longevity/Stability of the mill + log suspended on the flooring
2. Would require a log deck
3. Would require a ramp for the mill

Is this a terrible idea, am I overlooking a fatal flaw, or is this a possibility? I can't say I have seen a mill shed elevated above ground but maybe one of you have. 

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated!

Thanks!
- Kody
2011 LT35HD

doc henderson

a wood floor will be damaged by dropped heavy timbers, and may need footers or pilings under the supports for the mill.  to many pounds per square inch for a wood floor but could be done;  if you are doing footings and a stem wall, you could split the diff. and have the uphill end floor be 1.5 feet below grade and the lower 1.5 feet above. you will want to have it level at the area where you bring wood to the mill.  I assume the mill is oriented the long way and you don't want to travel sideways on a slope with a lot of weight in the air.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

doc henderson

you could also go down 3 feet into ground at the top of the hill and flush with the ground at the bottom.  you can just back the mill in on the bottom side.  If you then did retaining walls out perpendicular to the long length of the building, the dirt from you excavation could give a level flat area to bring logs to and boards from the mill.  also it would facilitate a log deck on the ground that span from the wall to the mill.  can put some rubber belting or a tarp on the sawdust side and pull out, or on concrete not to hard to sweep up at the end of the day.  so now you sunk 3 feet below grade and water will roll around your building.  There are worse things to stand on all day, need good shoes with inserts.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

CabinCreations

Great point - I didn't consider all the impact loads that the wood flooring would have to endure. 

Both options you pointed out seem reasonable, but at the same time if I am going to have someone come out to level an area, it may just be easier to have the entire site leveled for the building and adjust the grading of the existing trail/road to tie into the leveled area. 

Plenty to keep thinking about but I appreciate the feedback!  thumbs-up
2011 LT35HD

PAmizerman

Woodmizer lt40 super remote 42hp Kubota diesel. Accuset II
Hydraulics everywhere
Woodmizer edger 26hp cat diesel
Traverse 6035 telehandler
Case 95xt skidloader
http://byrnemillwork.com/
WM bms250 sharpener
WM bmt250 setter
and a lot of back breaking work!!

btulloh

You'll be way ahead of the game if you level out as much as practical.  I need to do the same thing.  Looking forward to see how it turns out.  
HM126

CabinCreations

Thanks, guys. I think sticking with the original plan and leveling the site is going to be the best long term solution. I'll be having someone come out soon to take a look and get me a quote. The total area that I will have leveled will mostly depend on that quote. 
2011 LT35HD

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