New Guy with my Sawmill Build

[SawyerTed]

Jeff, I wondered about that guy.... I saw a couple of posts in other threads.  They just didn't seem right.  So much for blending in.

Jimmysmill13, you've done an awesome job with this build!  It is nice to see a home built machine that looks so finished and professional!  I hope you get some custom logos for your machine.  That will take it up one more notch!

[Magicman]

Yup, that is the guy that I have been watching since he first joined.  He just was not right with his comments.

[SawyerTed]

I'm afraid that's an indication of how gullible spammers think people are.  Glad Jeff is vigilant!

[Jimmysmill13]

Jeff, I wondered about that guy.... I saw a couple of posts in other threads.  They just didn't seem right.  So much for blending in.

Jimmysmill13, you've done an awesome job with this build!  It is nice to see a home built machine that looks so finished and professional!  I hope you get some custom logos for your machine.  That will take it up one more notch!

Thanks! I like the logo idea.

[Jimmysmill13]

Just finished adding some log bunks. 10' Birch log loaded on the new log bunks.
 

 


 
 

 


 

[Jimmysmill13]

Added a log winch and ramps. Ramps are 5" channel. The winch is 3500lbs ATV winch. 

https://youtu.be/FSGmkRdE9UI

[charles mann]

Excellent build and documentation of the build. I'm tech-ignorant, so posting pics of my build will be about as challenging as the build its self, especially with the editing you did on the pics, with description blocks in the pics. hopefully it doesn't take me but 3-4 months to get mine built. Again, excellent build sir. 

question for ya on your winch you used for your raise/lower.
can you post a few more close up shots of the set up please?
i think (99% sure) i will be doing the same, but will probably go to a 3500# is i can find 1 with the gb on the same side as the motor, so i condo what you did, weld on a sprocket to the cable drum.

[Jimmysmill13]

Excellent build and documentation of the build. I'm tech-ignorant, so posting pics of my build will be about as challenging as the build its self, especially with the editing you did on the pics, with description blocks in the pics. hopefully it doesn't take me but 3-4 months to get mine built. Again, excellent build sir.

question for ya on your winch you used for your raise/lower.
can you post a few more close up shots of the set up please?
i think (99% sure) i will be doing the same, but will probably go to a 3500# is i can find 1 with the gb on the same side as the motor, so i condo what you did, weld on a sprocket to the cable drum.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Crusarius]

you've got to have some crazy tension on that chain. I tried that little engagement on the drive sprocket and I couldn't keep it from skipping teeth

[Jimmysmill13]

you've got to have some crazy tension on that chain. I tried that little engagement on the drive sprocket and I couldn't keep it from skipping teeth

The tension on the chain is ajusted by the center urathane guide block. It's just enough tension to take any slack out of the chain. I haven't had any issues. The mill head runs up and down very smooth.

[Crusarius]

yours is definitely better balanced than mine.

[charles mann]

did a machine shop build you a new cable drum or was the factory drum diameter small enough, you found a sprocket bushing that would fit over it? 

im wanting to go the same method, but drive a cross shaft with sprockets on the cross shaft that will raise/lower the saw beam, using either double roller #40 on each side, or maybe a single #50 per side.

[Hilltop366]

Wondering if the winch could go directly on the shaft, then you would only need two sprockets. 

[Jimmysmill13]

did a machine shop build you a new cable drum or was the factory drum diameter small enough, you found a sprocket bushing that would fit over it?

im wanting to go the same method, but drive a cross shaft with sprockets on the cross shaft that will raise/lower the saw beam, using either double roller #40 on each side, or maybe a single #50 per side.

I removed the drum from winch and used a cut off wheel to remove the drum flange. I then cleaned the drum shaft up with a grinder. The Sprocket fit the drum shaft size. I also used a keyed sprocket and cut a groove for the key. If you use a new grinding wheel it is the same size as the key. 

[thinwater]

Awesome build and I am glad I found it since I am starting on a similar build. I was about to make some of the same mistakes you made and fixed. Now I can start with your fixes from the beginning. 

How far apart are your v groove wheels on each side? I made mine 24" and want to make sure it is long enough before welding the uprights to them. 

[Jimmysmill13]

Awesome build and I am glad I found it since I am starting on a similar build. I was about to make some of the same mistakes you made and fixed. Now I can start with your fixes from the beginning.

How far apart are your v groove wheels on each side? I made mine 24" and want to make sure it is long enough before welding the uprights to them.

I am happy the tread is helping.

My mill is not using V Groove wheels. I am currently using 4" steel single flange wheels. I removed the wheels from a Harbor Freight 2 ton push beam trolley. I did replace the bearings in the wheels. They came with non-sealed bearings. I replaced them with sealed ones.

The mill runs on crane rails. The only reason for this is, I had it and it was free. The mill base is 24" long and I placed  safety guide wheels under the lip of the crane rail. This was done to keep the mill from accidental tipping front or back with such a short base. Surprisingly without those wheels the mill is well balanced. This also allowed me to keep the base at 24" and maximize my short 13' Log bed. The longest log I can cut is 11' with this mill. This is more than enough length for my use.

The down side to using the crane rails is the saw dust can build up on the rails and needs to be scraped of occasionally. I will come up with a fix so they are self cleaning as the mill rolls down the rail.



 

 

[Ljohnsaw]

I will come up with a fix so they are self cleaning as the mill rolls down the rail.

Cut some plastic from a barrel (can get them at car wash places for free).  Mount it with a bit of down pressure so it scrapes your rail both coming and going.  It will wear down to a matching profile.

[longframe200]

Maybe like this http://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/47626/CIMG3982.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1516316570

More to be seen here My DIY bandsaw mill in Sawmills and Milling

[thinwater]

Thank you for the reply. I made two V groove wheels on my lathe to fit on the corner of a peice of angle iron sitting with the bend up. I wanted to make sure I went wide enough with the base for a small build. 

[charles mann]

did a machine shop build you a new cable drum or was the factory drum diameter small enough, you found a sprocket bushing that would fit over it?

im wanting to go the same method, but drive a cross shaft with sprockets on the cross shaft that will raise/lower the saw beam, using either double roller #40 on each side, or maybe a single #50 per side.

I removed the drum from winch and used a cut off wheel to remove the drum flange. I then cleaned the drum shaft up with a grinder. The Sprocket fit the drum shaft size. I also used a keyed sprocket and cut a groove for the key. If you use a new grinding wheel it is the same size as the key.

Copy. Iv got 2500# tsc traveler winch that i will tactically dismantle and see what i can find for sprocket bushings that will fit over the drum. Thank you for sharing your info. 

[Jimmysmill13]

did a machine shop build you a new cable drum or was the factory drum diameter small enough, you found a sprocket bushing that would fit over it?

im wanting to go the same method, but drive a cross shaft with sprockets on the cross shaft that will raise/lower the saw beam, using either double roller #40 on each side, or maybe a single #50 per side.

I removed the drum from winch and used a cut off wheel to remove the drum flange. I then cleaned the drum shaft up with a grinder. The Sprocket fit the drum shaft size. I also used a keyed sprocket and cut a groove for the key. If you use a new grinding wheel it is the same size as the key.

Copy. Iv got 2500# tsc traveler winch that i will tactically dismantle and see what i can find for sprocket bushings that will fit over the drum. Thank you for sharing your info.

I used the Surplus Center for my sprockets. Tractor supply is another good place. 
Surplus Center

[charles mann]

did a machine shop build you a new cable drum or was the factory drum diameter small enough, you found a sprocket bushing that would fit over it?

im wanting to go the same method, but drive a cross shaft with sprockets on the cross shaft that will raise/lower the saw beam, using either double roller #40 on each side, or maybe a single #50 per side.

I removed the drum from winch and used a cut off wheel to remove the drum flange. I then cleaned the drum shaft up with a grinder. The Sprocket fit the drum shaft size. I also used a keyed sprocket and cut a groove for the key. If you use a new grinding wheel it is the same size as the key.

Copy. Iv got 2500# tsc traveler winch that i will tactically dismantle and see what i can find for sprocket bushings that will fit over the drum. Thank you for sharing your info.

I used the Surplus Center for my sprockets. Tractor supply is another good place.
Surplus Center

That they are. Iv been eyeballing their weld-on sprockets and hubs, and they are local, dont have to order online and wait for what could be the wrong part, then have to mess with returning and ordering the right part. Plus im tax exempt, which help a lil bit. 

[Kwill]

Thanks for the pics of your chain raising system. I was stumped on how I wanted to do mine. I saw your post last night and looked through the pics and got some ideas. I just put a handle on mine like your original was. I have one of those winches in my log arch. It works great. Only thing is I noticed is it moves a little more when you let off the remote. does yours do the same? Do you have to stop it a little sooner than where you want to stop?

[Jimmysmill13]

Thanks for the pics of your chain raising system. I was stumped on how I wanted to do mine. I saw your post last night and looked through the pics and got some ideas. I just put a handle on mine like your original was. I have one of those winches in my log arch. It works great. Only thing is I noticed is it moves a little more when you let off the remote. does yours do the same? Do you have to stop it a little sooner than where you want to stop?

No Problem, Happy to help.
This winch has not had that issue. Are you using the wireless winch remote that came with the winch or the plug and play one you can buy separately?
The Badland wireless remote will do what you are referring to. Picture below.



 

[Kwill]

Yes I use the wireless remote