new splitter build

stumpjumper83 · July 29, 2015, 10:03:15 PM

Some pics of a new splitter Ive built. Its designed for producing bundling wood, but its tough enough to handle the gnarley stuff. It was a new 22 ton splitter before I torched the wedge and plat off it, reversed them and made a box wedge for it. Intending on selling them eventually, whats everyones thoughts.

beenthere · July 29, 2015, 10:23:14 PM

Let's see how it works with a video or three. Then we can see the improvements.

stumpjumper83 · July 30, 2015, 02:56:54 PM

here is a video of the splitter in action. Ran an ash log thru it. If it seems a little slow its a 22 ton commercial unit that I added the box wedge to, it has a 11 gpm pump, powered by an 11 hp Kohler, its no timberwolf. If you go to about the 2:30 mark things start stepping up in speed, dunno if the wedge has to wear in or what.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zb8ffrwNA4o

beenthere · July 30, 2015, 03:13:05 PM

The "slow" is the 2nd stage of the pump kicking in because it is having a very tough time pushing the ash bolts past the wedge combination. You are actually compressing the wood, or squeezing it as evidence by the looks of the ash splits (and the need for the pump to kick down into the 2nd stage).

Best go back to the drawing board. I hope that is not too discouraging to your endeavor.

Ash is about the easiest wood there is to split, and your blocks were pretty free of crotch wood and other gnarly grain so should spit (and split) through with ease.

Thanks for the video, as it was what I expected to be happening by the still pic posted.

justallan1 · July 31, 2015, 04:51:09 PM

I can't see if you added more bracing material for your wedges, but it surely needs more than the stock version.
I feel by the sounds of it, you are really going to be shortening the life of your engine, pump and cylinder.
I'd keep messing with your splitting wedges, possibly make a cross and just quarter the rounds. I think you are using to much power trying to force it through squares rather than your wedges somewhat following the grain.
Keep messing with it, you'll get it.

jwilly3879 · July 31, 2015, 08:41:12 PM

Looks like the outside wedges should be flat on the inside and angled to match the center wedge so as the wood opens up with the center wedge it doesn't bind. Same with the top on, flat on the bottom side.

My four way is built with the center wedge ahead of the side wings and they are only sharpened on the top edge.

stumpjumper83 · July 31, 2015, 08:56:57 PM

the center wedge is the original wedge shortened 2", and re welded on the opposite end. There is 3/4" taper in the side wedges from straight, and they are only sharpened on the outside edge. After thinking about it, I failed to taper the top wedge, the front and the back are the same height, that along with a narrow wedge profile I believe is where the problem lies. I'm thinking of cutting the top wedge off, angling it a little and moving a ahead a little more so everything isn't trying to split all at once.

Oliver1655 · July 31, 2015, 09:06:02 PM

Making a horizontal slice before allowing the vertical as you photo shows makes sense to me. However, to prevent pinching, the horizontal wedge should have the front edge 1/2" lower than the back side. It looks like only the top edge of the horizontal wedge is beveled. Good plan, this will also help keep the lower split from being pushed down which whould have caused binding.

Now for the vertical wedges:
- All splits should be done in steps/stages. This decreased the amount of tonnage needed & the over all stress on the splitter & wedge system.
- Middle wedge should be staged around 2" behind the horizontal edge & beveled on both sides.
- The outer wedges should be staged around 2 inches behind the middle wedge, beveled only on the outside & angled slightly with the back edge again around 1/2" wider then the front edge.

By staging the wedges, in addition to decreasing stress, you are also allowing the splits to angle slightly away from the last wedge they made contact with which helps to prevent binding/pinching of the splits.

You plan has a good start but needs to be refined. If you look closely at the Tempest splitters, you will see one which is basically doing what you are hoping to do.

Please keep us posted on you progress.

Oliver1655 · July 31, 2015, 09:07:26 PM

Looks like you are already addressing some of what I suggested.

Hermio · August 23, 2015, 06:17:12 PM

Has anyone adapted a truck crane to lift heavy logs up to a splitter?

Warped · August 23, 2015, 10:03:07 PM

If the center vertical was out front of the horizontal it may eliminate the need to run the top again?
As Beenthere seemed to say, it seems when the center vertical splits it you're now shoving two pieces 7" wide through a 6" or so hole on each side. Maybe angle the tail end of the two outside verts out an inch or so. That would not do much for the mouth though...it seems the two outsides would have to slide out a little and then spring back to position, a feat of engineering indeed.
It's also going to have to push straight through knots (may wedge in there pretty good with no hydraulics to pull it back). Keep working at, if all else fails, throw more hp at it! :D

sam-tip · August 27, 2015, 08:54:33 AM

Is the top wedge a plow shear bottom or a bucket cutting edge. Good choice either way it is most likely equal to AR200 steel. (abrasion resistant steel)

Oliver1655 · August 28, 2015, 07:40:02 PM

One reason to split the horizontal before the verticals is you only have one chunk to keep splitting, (the top piece.) This is really handy if you are using a crane/davit to position large pieces on the splitter.

If you add another piece of flat to the back of the horizontal wedge to make it 16-20" deep, it will act as a table to support the top piece you want to keep splitting so you will only have to slide it back onto the beam after the cylinder has retracted.

WV Mountaineer · September 05, 2015, 11:03:22 PM

I'm not going to comment on the top angle as the reason you are having problems is due to the fact you have got way to much splitting going on for a 22 ton splitter. I agree you bout got the splitters right but, you need a bigger splitter to run that rig.

It would be awesome to have that thing on a 35 ton splitter. As is, it would do great. Improved, even faster. I just don't think you are ever going to sell that rig to many guys running a 22 ton splitter in hardwood timber. Out west or, somewhere pine dominates firewood consumption, maybe. But, guys who have spent time splitting eastern hardwoods with a 22 ton splitter will know their machine might not be up to par with the demand that thing will put on it.

Full cycle time for that splitter is 11 seconds, according to the owners manual I received with my identical splitter. Believe what beendare said. The reason it was slow is because the machine has just about got more than it can handle. BTW, the motor on that machine is 6.5 HP. Not 11. God Bless

robson1015 · October 05, 2015, 10:21:51 AM

Too slow and underpowered.

stumpjumper83 · November 16, 2015, 09:19:37 PM

Well I looked at it again and welded the rest of the plow share to the top wedge and it fixed a lot of the issues I was having. Its faster now and spits better, I've ran it in a little hard maple and it did well. In theory the flat wedge takes less bite than a centered verticle one... in theory...

I agree a 22 ton is a little light for what I'm asking it to do but its just the test bed for a full blown processor.

Al_Smith · November 19, 2015, 06:27:23 PM

I'm not trying to be a smart alec but seldom if ever do the tonnage ratings in most instances equate to the actual power produced .--They lie .

As far as I know Timberwolf is the only honest builder when it comes to that .At any rate in casual observation that splitter would be best served in it's original design ,with a single wedge .Usual in multi wedge situations they use at least a 5" cylinder. That thing looks like a 3.5" if that. Not nearly enough .