Severely neglected Central Boiler 5036

[monkeyratmom]

I don't want to get into the reasons why, but our boiler is in need of intensive care. Mostly because when I let my husband take over loading it etc, because he wouldn't cut/split the wood so I could actually pick it up (less than 30 pounds please), he completely ignored my instructions on how to care for it. We have fought for years over it. Because of time and health issues I let him get away with it. Now I have to rescue it.

Creosote is horrendous. We do use Anti-Creosoot but it was a battle to get him to use it consistently. Now he actually tells me before we run out. But because of poor seal, etc. no real improvement, just running in place.

I have ordered a new damper, solenoid, door rope, some fuses, etc., but have not had energy to deal with it. I am severely depressed because this was such a big purchase and I love having heat and hot water virtually free. (Labor only)

Approximately 7 years of abuse. I want to get it back to the best it can be at this point. My husband is having some cognitive decline and joint issues, possibly due to being Airborne infantry with many hard landings and also directly under the toxic plumes in the first Gulf War. Once it is fixed and a fixed routine established, he will be fine.

I have another issue of a severe tilt starting after Hurricane Florence and exacerbated by weekly hard, or soaking, or drenching rain ever since then (September). A couple of 10-day periods without rain since the first of the year. My husband overdid it last month because he cut and hauled wood two days in a row when it was dry enough to get it out of the woods. So I am buying him a 2004 Mule today. Literally 8 months behind cutting and moving it.

He's a police office in a tiny town and I am on Social Security, so yeah, funds. Looking at a possible HELOC to take care of some home improvements and repairs. Switch to a gas hot water heater so it can be shut down in the summer. IDK, stuff to think about.

Going to go look at that Mule now.

Thanks for listening

[E Yoder]

Sounds like a new door gasket and a roaring fire might do wonders for the creosote. ?

[monkeyratmom]

The trick will be getting the door rope off. It's pretty much welded in place by the creosote.    :(

[Jeff]

Well, I know little to nothing about outdoor wood boilers, but just wanted to say, I'm rooting for you!

[albirk]

Clean out all of the ashes start a small fire cut up 8 to 10 pallets and start feeding the stove with dry pallets. It will burn the creosote out keep adding the pallets till the inside is cleaned up. Let the fire burn out and clean the ashes again to get the nails out then change out the door rope and other parts. After the ashes with the nails cool of you can you can collect the nails and have clean ashes to disposes of. I do this a couple of times a year and it cleans up nice. 

[monkeyratmom]

That sounds great. Thank you!

[maple flats]

That is good advice. I was a dealer back in the 80's and 90's of a competitive brand.
Once the firebox and all are cleaned up, let it cool, then change the gasket. You will likely find the gasket is pop riveted in place. Use a drill to drill the rivets, then a punch to push that rivet part still in the holes. Then use a hammer and chisel to remove the old gasket.  Then before putting the new gasket on, shut off the power to it, close the valves to keep the water in the pipes, and drain the unit so you can re-level it. The brand I carried wanted the back 1" higher than the firebox end, ask a dealer what  tilt if any yours should have. Then level it side to side and put enough support under so the unit does not settle again. Then fill the unit with water or whatever it should have. Also ask the dealer if any specific chemicals should be added.
After filling the jacket, pop rivet the new gasket on and turn the power on for the blower.
Then light a fire. While these types of units can burn any wood, dry is best. For summer use just use enough for a quick fire and let it burn out, then shut the blower off. During the heating season keep it filled with wood on a schedule, usually 12 hrs, sometimes in a real cold spell 8 hrs.
You will do best with dry wood, especially in regards to creosote build up. Any time you notice a creosote build up, cut up a few pallets made of hardwood and burn them to get rid of the creosote.
I never had much use for any creosote product in this type of unit, they do however help in a fireplace or indoor wood stove to get rid of creosote buildup. These units need an intense fire using real dry wood to reduce the creosote. Being outside the intense fire is not a hazard it would be indoors.

[albirk]

The gasket will have some silicone holding it in place. That stove will have a cast iron door. When you install the new door rope go easy on the silicone. A little dab here and there close the door for a couple hour to let it set.

[Gearbox]

Order a rope for the stove and do not cut it off . Put lots of hi temp silicone in the U feed the rope in keeping it pushed to shorten so all the rope is used . Close the door but do not latch it tight until the silicone sets up .  This is how a Classic dealer told me to do it .

[monkeyratmom]

Starting to feel better, thanks y'all. 

[buckgrunt]

Sorry for your predicament.  I have a Central Boiler Eclassic 2300 gasser.  Probably much different than yours, but all wood burning appliances operated on the same premise:  Air + Fuel = Heat.  Make sure air gets into the firebox. With mine, there is a fan that blows air into the firebox through air holes.  Make sure these holes are not obstructed.   Creosote is an issue for all of of us, but as long as it is not clogging anything up to prevent good air flow, you should be all set.  Burning dry wood is also a very big plus, but I have burnt wood that is not ideal with no issues.   Also, make sure the water in your furnace is properly treated to avoid corrosion.  

[Rebarb]

I've had my CB 5036 for 7 years also, never replaced a single thing on it.
Just remember the basics.

1. Burned seasoned wood
2. Rake the coals each day.
3. Use the appropriate rust inhibitor
4. Check water level
5. Scrape the sides periodically and clean ashes
6. After burn season, clean thoroughly and coat the inside with oil.
To simplify, just use a garden sprayer with synthetic motor oil thinned with mineral spirits and spray away.

[monkeyratmom]

If it was just me, there would be no problem. It never would have gotten this way. *sigh*

There shall be a strict new regime from now on lol.  My way or the highway.

[petefrom bearswamp]

What rebarb said.
14th season on my 4036 with only one minor leak at a stay pin weld and controller for about 65 bucks.
All nice dry wood, no creosote build up just the shiny stuff on the sides and topof the fire box.