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Product review, Bounty Hunter Tracker IV

Started by brdmkr, April 05, 2009, 11:18:31 PM

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brdmkr

From time to time, someone requests input on metal detectors.  I have a Bounty Hunter Tracker IV.  I have had it about 2 years and gave around 120 bucks for it.  I have not hit metal with my mill on any log that I have scanned since I got it.  I have found plenty of metal and I have hit metal in logs that I forgot to scan for one reason or another >:( 

Yesterday, I was cutting a pretty large slash pine that came from someone's yard.  The log was a 16 footer and 24" on the small end.  I am needing some beams and this was a great log to get them from.  When I scanned the log, I picked up metal but it was not a very strong signal, but it was distinct.  I often find bullets and bullets tend to set of the detector when the discrimination is turned on.  Iron tends not to set it off if discrimination is on.  So, I turned discrimination on, hoping for a signal (meaning it was likely lead and I could cut right through).  I got no signal.  So I knew I had iron :(  .  I also knew it was deep.  I needed those beams, and I just had some blades retipped, so I figured it was worth it to sacrifice some tips on a well used blade.  I did hit the metal.  It was a finish nail and did not harm a tooth 8).  What is most important is that the detector found a finish nail over 9 " into the log.  Now I know that it can pick up things that are smaller and deeper than I had previously thought.  I do take my time when scanning and I try to be very thorough.   I have never found anything this deep.   All my previous metal finds have been within an inch or two of the bark.  So I never really had any idea how deep it would go. 

Just thought I would post this so folks might know what to expect.  I know I was both surprised and pleased with its performance.
Lucas 618  Mahindra 4110, FEL and pallet forks, some cant hooks, and a dose of want-to

okie

Justs curious, what do you normally do when you detect metal? Do you chuck the log to the side for fire wood, or saw slower than normal or what? I have yet to cut a yard tree. Most of the trees I have cut thus far and have to still cut are from deep woods so I have'nt felt the need for a detector just yet, but I will get one eventually. I did hit something the other day, do'nt know what, could'nt find anything, but there was a fairly loud pop and my saw stopped cutting worth a DanG, I was missing 4 tips off my saw.
Striving to create a self sustaining homestead and lifestyle for my family and myself.

Dan_Shade

i use a chainsaw and make a series of plunge cuts until I hear it hit, then I start using a Crescent nail extractor, or a crowbar, or whatever to pull it out. or break out the big chunk of wood around the metal.

often there will be nails in the bark if you can find them.
Woodmizer LT40HDG25 / Stihl 066 alaskan
lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

Bibbyman

Quote from: okie on April 06, 2009, 11:46:58 PM
Justs curious, what do you normally do when you detect metal? Do you chuck the log to the side for fire wood, or saw slower than normal or what? I have yet to cut a yard tree. Most of the trees I have cut thus far and have to still cut are from deep woods so I have'nt felt the need for a detector just yet, but I will get one eventually. I did hit something the other day, do'nt know what, could'nt find anything, but there was a fairly loud pop and my saw stopped cutting worth a DanG, I was missing 4 tips off my saw.

It depends on how many of what you find and if the value of what you can recover from the log is worth the effort to recover it.  At least half the time the nails can be located and pulled but may require a little digging.  Sometimes you can butt the log back and save most of it. 

Sometimes knowing where the metal is, you can "saw around it".  In these cases,  I generally use an old blade.

We hit a lot of metal in trees that didn't come from yards.  Seems trees are good for fence posts and deer stands.

P.S. We have a White metal detector.  Can't tell you much about it.  I don't even remember the model.  I've picked up heavy spikes 8" deep and small nails a couple of inches deep. 
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

brdmkr

For me, it depends.  If I think the metal is near the surface, I chop, chisel, and driill until I find it and pull it out.  If it is deep, I will saw a little off the top and scan again.  If a log has lots of metal, I will trash it unless I can tell that I can easily remove the metal or if the log is particularly valuable to me.  In the case that prompted me to start this thread, I needed a 6x12.  So, I took my chances. 
Lucas 618  Mahindra 4110, FEL and pallet forks, some cant hooks, and a dose of want-to

okie

Quote from: brdmkr on April 07, 2009, 08:08:14 AM
For me, it depends.  If I think the metal is near the surface, I chop, chisel, and driill until I find it and pull it out.  If it is deep, I will saw a little off the top and scan again.  If a log has lots of metal, I will trash it unless I can tell that I can easily remove the metal or if the log is particularly valuable to me.  In the case that prompted me to start this thread, I needed a 6x12.  So, I took my chances. 
Brdmkr, Gotta know how you handle double cutting on your mill. I have'nt figgured out a feasible way to do so, but I have rolled the log after I got a wide enough flat on top for a 6x whatever beam and adjusted the mill so everything is square and cut from the top till I was down to 6'' and then just rip the beam out. Kinda a lot of  trouble but you can get some pretty good beams like that.
Striving to create a self sustaining homestead and lifestyle for my family and myself.

brdmkr

Okie,

It is a real pain to do by yourself, but not so bad if you have someone helping.  If you want a 6x12, square off the top of the log such that you have at least a 12" top face.  Then drop 6 inches and make a vertical cut.  So now you have a 6" deep cut on the left and a flat top that is over 12".  Now cut 6" in the horizontal.   Without adjusting your rails, pick the saw head up and turn it 180 degrees.  Establish a vertical face on the other side of the log.  Now cut 6" horizontal such that your horizontal cuts meet in the middle.  Be sure to use wedges when making the cuts meet up as the weight of the beam can really provide some pressure on the blade and make for some tough pushing. 

You can do this by yourself, but it requires that you put put your wheels on the carriage and readjust your rails to the exact spot they were in when you completed the first horizontal cut.  I have seen where some have installed pulleys above the ends of the mill to pick up the carriage and turn it.  If I ever get under a roof, I may try that.  The other swing blades have the advantage when it comes to double cutting.  They don't have to turn the carriage.  If the engine didn't set down so low on the Lucas, it would be a simple matter to remove the bottom blade guard and double cut without turning the carriage.  Someone posted sometime back of doing that with an 8" Lucas.  I think they were able to cut 2 x 16s without having to turn the carriage.  I think you MIGHT could get a 1 x 12 with a 6" mill.  Just not worth the effort in my opinion.

Let me know if the double cutting instructions don't make since and I'll see if I can figure out how to post a drawing.

Take care.

Mike
Lucas 618  Mahindra 4110, FEL and pallet forks, some cant hooks, and a dose of want-to

okie

Makes sense to me Mike. I usually work solo so the help is kinda out of the picture. I kinda thought about making a A frame set up with a hoist to turn the head but I really do'nt see needing that many wide beams to make the trouble worthwhile. Appologies for hi-jacking your thread. I really appreciate you letting me in on the stuff you have already figgured out, you have from the get go.
Thanks
Morgan
Striving to create a self sustaining homestead and lifestyle for my family and myself.

brdmkr

It is a pain to double cut by yourself and some sort of frame with a pulley system would really help.  The pics I saw of this had eye-bolts in each cormer that ropes attached to.  The whole head was picked up and turned w/o much effort at all.


Lucas 618  Mahindra 4110, FEL and pallet forks, some cant hooks, and a dose of want-to

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