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046 won't crank

Started by moodnacreek, February 21, 2018, 07:46:37 PM

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moodnacreek

Low hour stihl  won't pull over,sometimes, like hydraulic locked but not flooded.  Dealer says timing is advancing. Comments please.                                             Thanks, Doug      

starmac

Pull the plug and try it, that will eliminate the timing if it still doesn't pull freely.
It could be the rope itself too.
Old LT40HD, old log truck, old MM forklift, and several huskies.

ehp

pull the sparkplug out , make sure saw is off and ground plug out , pull it over , if everything is ok then if its acting like the timing is advanced then most likely the flywheel has spun on the crank OR some one has switched the coil  , Most of those saws had to timing slots in the flywheel and if you get the wrong coil matched up with the wrong key way on the flywheel it will pretty much take your hand off trying to start it

moodnacreek

EHP, Thanks for reply. I doubt it spun the fly wheel but we will check the key. The saw will run fine if it starts but if it's in a bad mood you can't pull it. Our former sthil dealer says this has happened to others and to increase the air gap [coil to flywheel] and this might help. I thought it might be a known problem on this model as they age.

ehp

Like I said , make sure the coil is correct to the flywheel timing slot ,, if you get them wrong it makes the saw a bear to start but once running it runs very well

moodnacreek

EHP, sorry but don't understand timing slot you mention.       The coil was replaced a few years ago with o.e.m. and worked fine for awhile. The way I understand it there is no timing adjustment except the air gap. I'am missing something here.

joe_indi

Play on the connecting rod could cause this.
Some easy solutions are to increase the spark plug gap or air gap of the coil.
A slightly difficult solution is to decrease compression by adding an extra cylinder gasket or by filing the mounting holes of the coil and moving it a little downwards.

moodnacreek

Joe, I had wondered about the spark plug gap, stihl  wants .020, I will open it along with the air gap. The saw has not seen much use but has become a mean kicker.             Thanks for the advice  .

joe_indi

moodnacreek
The simplest way to avoid the backfire while starting is to flood the engine before starting.
The move lever to Start (not I)
And pull till the engine recovers from the flooding and starts up a bit 'tamely'

ZeroJunk

Quote from: joe_indi on March 08, 2018, 07:41:09 AM
moodnacreek
The simplest way to avoid the backfire while starting is to flood the engine before starting.
The move lever to Start (not I)
And pull till the engine recovers from the flooding and starts up a bit 'tamely'
I have a flat top 066 that has a kick back that is just awful . Take the meat off your fingers. I'll try that.

moodnacreek

Joe, Tried flooding and it seems to work good. This may be the answer, thanks everybody.

HolmenTree

I had a 044 that developed a bar oil leak through the crankcase gasket into the crankcase. Only noticed the hydraulic lock in the spring when first started after sitting all winter, would smoke like crazy until warmed up.

This 046 even though it's claimed to be lower hour can still have enough carbon build up in the P/C to tighten it up more in compression. 

But like said if the ignition model was changed earlier I'd check the air gap between the flywheel.
Making a living with a saw since age 16.

Al_Smith

The easiest solution for a kicker is a D-Handle .That way it doesn't snap your fingers although it might try to dislocate your shoulder . ;D

moodnacreek

Holman, we thought about carbon but never pursued  it. Should keep it in mind, thanks, enjoy your posts.                           
Smith, never thought of a closed pull start handle, like some snow blowers have, thanks.
Right now we are flooding it a little and it starts easy that way. 

Al_Smith

In my opinion the D-handle for a Stihl 460 rescue is the best I've found .Fairly  cheap too,about 8-9 bucks .Another thing on a kicker ,don't baby it .Pull it over like you mean it .Good ole"Stihl Boy",Fred was checking the compression on one my souped up saws by pulling it over .He forgot the mag was hot and even with a D-handle it tried to pull him through the recoil assembly.

Al_Smith

Here's another thing nobody mentioned .Often times on an older saw the starter drum either wears the bushing out or wears the drum out causing it run eccentric which will bind them up about like a bulls behind in fly time .On a high compression saw this will cause some problems .
This is exactly what I found on a 2100 Husqvarna which is not only high compression but also uses a starter drum that is way undersized in my opinion for that large of a saw .I made a brass bushing for the drum on my lathe which cured that problem and I'll bet it never wears out like the original plastic one did .BTW it also wears a D-handle .

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