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wannabe lumber miller/Husq 353/lumber jigs/log arches and spruce

Started by jimbarry, August 22, 2013, 12:27:51 PM

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jimbarry

Hi,
Looking for comments, suggestions,advice. I've got about 20 acres of mix spruce and balsam fir (former christmas tree lot). It needs thinning, some small and some large have to come down. It would be a shame to block up the larger stuff. While I have experience in the woods and using chainsaws (number of years cutting firewood for self), I've always wanted cut some lumber to build a shed.

I've got a couple smaller Stihl saws and largest is an older Husq 353, which I think is 50 cc.

I've put some thought into building a sled/jig to mill the logs to get 2x8 lumber and smaller. Mostly looking for 2x6 and some 2x4 at 10ft (or 12ft if available). This certainly will not be a production operation. I'm just looking to get a few logs, slab them up and set them aside until I need them. Going to have a local welder build the jig, and probably a log arch too. I salvaged the rear end off a ride on mower so looking to take the wheels and stub axels to make something (if the wheels can hold the weight of a 12" diameter x 10ft long tree stem.

So some questions;


  • Am I ill equipped for such a small operation regarding the Husq saw?
  • Using fresh cut timber (spruce or fir), what's the largest bar/type chain I can use on the Husq?
  • Does it matter if the logs are fresh cut or not? Assuming easier to cut fresh cut logs.
  • Should I surface 4 sides of the timber and stack/sticker? Or could I cut cut the slabs and stack /sticker?
  • Would I get/make a 10deg ripping chain or can a 30deg get the job done? Not too worried about surface finish, its only a shed.

dgdrls

Hi Jimbarry,

sounds like a fun project.  At first glance I suspect you are set for felling
and with a little creative welding you could have an arch.

I would look for small trailer wheels and hubs for the arch build.

I do not have experience with a CS mill, however I suspect slabbing
with the 353 is beyond its capabilities. It probably can, but it would be difficult.
I've recall reading other posts where
folks indicated a minimum of a 75cc power-head was highly recommended.

have you investigated having a mobile sawyer come on site to saw your logs?

best
DGD

mad murdock

be careful, milling can be addictive! (you have had fair warning :)).  I have don a bit of milling with a chainsaw, it is more work than a band mill but the results are very nice, and the initial cost is quite easy to absorb.  For a shed or some other construction, you will be able to fare well with a CSM, I would suggest you spend some time on Bailey's (forum sponsor) website, and look at the Granberg Alaskan, or small mill, and the "mini" then look at Logoso's Big Mill System Timberjig.  I have the Alaskan MkIII, a home made version of the "mini" mill and a Timberjig.  I like the timberjig best for dimension milling with the chainsaw, and milling small to medium dia logs.  Less setup, and quicker changeover to different board sizes.  The MkIII is great for slabbing and live edge boards.  I mill mostly with 70cc+ saws, I would not try it with at least 55-60cc.  Anything smaller would be a major frustration.  If you mill Balsam Fir when green, it should mill fairly easy.  If it is dry, it will be slower going.  Bailey's has videos or links to videos of the different milling attachments in action, so you can get a good idea of what to expect.  If youi are building a shed, you can even throw it up with the green milled lumber with minimal issues.  I have done a lot of construction around our home place with green milled boards and have not had an issue.  I have Douglas Fir and Western Red Cedar to work with mostly.  Good luck, and don't let the sawdust bug bite too hard ;) 
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

jimbarry

thanks for the replies. I'm sure it would be easy to find somebody with a portable mill, but I'm not in a hurry. If I could fell one tree, limb it, clean up the area, drag the log to the CSM and slab it on a Saturday, I'd call that a very good day.

I've bought from Baileys before and am quite familiar with their jigs. The big hurdle would be obtaining a 75 cc powerhead. I just don't have $1,000 to spend on one.


mad murdock

Look on Craigslist, or ask around to your friends and accquaintances.  Used cc's are a lot cheaper to buy than new.  Most of my saws I got used, and paid very little $$ or they were given to me as freebies.  Some of the free stuff includes McCulloch PM700(70cc), Stihl 075 (111 cc's), and several McC 10-10's of various styles, oh, and a couple SP81E's so far (82cc's).  Most of the saws just require a good cleaning and lookover, maybe a bar and chain, new fuel line, spark plug, carb kit, and new starter rope.  maybe 40-50 bucks worth of parts for the powerhead (worst case), and the cost of a bar and chain.  I have several great runners!  Maybe you can scrounge up a few nice old Pioneers?  them were some great saws. and for milling, if it is a little heftier than the new plastic fantastic saws, no worry there.  I have really been amazed at the increased feed speeds of the Stihl PMX milling chain, and if you have a saw 80cc or less in size to mill with, would recommend setting it up with the proper Bar and chain and going with the picco chain, you will not be disappointed. The milled surface is as smooth or better than anything I have seen come off a bandmill, and the 1/4' kerf cuts back on sawdust, gives you a little more recovery, and as stated, the cutting speed is increased, as less power is required to pull the skinnier chain through the cut.  Baileys can fix you up with the best value on any and all the equipment you will need to gear up a saw for milling.
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

Nomad

     I second Mad Murdock.  Alaskan mills are not particularly expensive, especially if you can find a used one.  And I also agree with him about the saw too.  Yours sounds a bit small to me for milling; a lot of difference between that and crosscutting. 
     But your idea of an arch is a good one.  It'll come in real handy.
     With an Alaskan you don't need to worry about bringing the log to the mill.  It'll be a lot easier to bring the mill to the log, and tote out the boards.
     On some of the smaller stuff, think outside the box.  Not big enough for lumber, but maybe sized right for rustic furniture?  Just a thought.
     Oh, Yeah.  Welcome to the FF! :)
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
WoodMizer LT50HDD51-WR
Lucas DSM23-19

Ianab

Third the advice of buying a big old saw. Something like the 075 he mentions is a great milling saw. No sane person want to lug one of those beasts around the woods all day, but bolt one too an Alaskan mill and you have something useful  :)

Sponsor "ChainsawR" over on the left would be able to sell you most any parts you needed to get it running. Most likely fuel line and a carb kit if the saws been sitting for a few years.

I can understand not have $1,000 to blow on a new saw. But if that's the case, you probably don't want to melt your existing 50cc saw either?

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

customsawyer

Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

jimbarry

Thanks for the welcome folks, although I've been here since 2009 :) Just flying under the radar. :)  We keep busy working from home and maintaining property for ourselves and others. I blog a bit at my site on some of the forestry stuff if you're interested http://woodchuckcanuck.com/work/work-portfolio/outdoors-work-portfolio/

jimbarry

Quote from: Ianab on August 22, 2013, 06:37:38 PM
I can understand not have $1,000 to blow on a new saw. But if that's the case, you probably don't want to melt your existing 50cc saw either?

I melted a Husq 353XPG (I think that's right) that was given to me :( Bad gas I suspect melted the cyl. That's what brought me to the 353 which was also a hand me down. The ms230 was a small one I bought for limbing. The ms260 was also given to me when my father-in-law passed a couple years ago.

Most of the spruce on the property is not really that mature. I'll actually have to search for trees to get 2x6 out of it. So I dunno if an Alaskan type mill would be the ticket for such smalll trees? There are larger trees (+18 dia) but they line the property and are not to be touched... at least for now :)

jimbarry


EZland

I started with CSM, mine too was under powered.  (was using a husky 455) I did saw some slab benches and table tops and such.  I did not melt the saw.  Just hot and dusty..... So I also could not justify a $1000 for another saw.  So I bought a manual saw mill, EZ Boardwalk Jr.   Much better.  In the first weekend I had sawn in one weekend what I had done with a CSM  in six months. the mill was 4x the cost of a CSM, but  worth every cent  CSM have their purpose, but not for me. 

EZ Boardwalk Jr. 30", Husky 455, Kioti 5010 w, FEL , And I just moved to Ohio.and still looking for logs.

God is great!  I will never be as good as the "Carpenter's Son"

dgdrls

JB,

http://www.linnlumber.com/index.html

here is an avenue to build your own mill across time
and save some $.

Not trying to dissuade you from a CSM just pointing other option available.

Best
DGD

jimbarry


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