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Started by max3dlee, March 02, 2016, 06:17:36 PM

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max3dlee

Just wanted to introduce myself.

My name is Lee Cox and I live in Huntsville, AL.

Late last year I became obsessed with timber framing. I've been watching videos and purchased both "The Timber Framing Book"
by Stewart Elliott and A Timber Framer's Workshop by Steve Chappell.

Depending on tax return I plan on attending Fox Maple's Intro to Timber Framing class in May/June. If not this year, hopefully next.

I taught 3D Imaging and Animation (and a little AutoCAD) for a local college for 14 years and now I'm a 3D artist for a gov't contractor.

I've been a hobbyist woodworker for many years.

This website was recommended to me by the owner of Hobby Hardwood - a local mill that sells hardwoods by the board foot. (a helluva nice guy and nice prices, too!)

I wasnt going to introduce myself until after I attended a class somewhere, but curiosity and excitement has gotten the better of me.

My mother has some leftover 8x8's at her place and it is my intention to grab a few and practice some layout and cuts.

Any advice or recommendations as far as books or schools / classes closer to me in the Tennessee valley?

Thanks!
Stealth Genius - even I dont know how smart I am!

drobertson

I know nothing of timber framing but like you love this type of construction, there is much to learn, and this forum has much to share,, look forward to seeing your progress,
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

Dave Shepard

Welcome to the Forum! Steer clear of the Elliot book. I don't have any experience with Chappel, but have heard good things about him. Anything from Jack Sobon would be a great choice as well. I don't know of anything that's a lot closer offhand, but there are workshops periodically that are closer. I think Grigg Mullen is doing another one this summer at or near the Virginia Military Acadamy. The Heartwood School in Washington, MA, has many different workshops, from intro to Cruck framing. I've taken several, including Cruck twice.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Magicman

Hello max3dlee and Welcome to the Forestry Forum.  Adding your location to your profile will help us to remember.   :)
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

PaAnkerbalken

Hey there. The grand oaks timber framing school is in Tennessee. I attended that one as well as heartwood. Both are great schools.
Scott at grand oaks is a great teacher...very patient and thorough.  He uses lots of power tools whereas heartwood is more traditional. For me, old school combined with the newer ways was a win win. Great to be able to use both kinds of building ways. Wherever you choose to go you'll have a great time. Good luck.
logosol M7

max3dlee

Thanks!

I'm looking at them both now.

Looks like Grand Oaks is booked for April, and its driving distance! :(
Stealth Genius - even I dont know how smart I am!

WV Sawmiller

Lee,

   Welcome to the FF. My wife was from Cullman. I worked for a Lee Cox in Iraq and Haiti but he lived in Fla as I remember so I assume you are not the same one.

   Plenty of info here so I'd browse the posts and if you don't see the answer to your specific question post it in the appropriate heading. Good luck.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

Brad_bb

I took Steve Chappell's workshop in 2007.  Good workshop.  He taught mill rule and used power tools.  Good first experience.  I later took a workshop that used square rule and all hand tools.  Both were worth it.  I learned different things in each.  A few years ago I helped teach a workshop, and I learned a few new things there too.  Each time I've worked around other timberframers I learned something new.  You never stop learning new tricks and techniques.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

max3dlee

I'm currently reading Chappell's book. I love the quote from John Ruskin: "This our father made for us."

Also gathering tools. Its kinda tough finding full tang chisels (outside of ebay). I've subscribed to the Super Tools mailing list and have been watching that.

Bought a worm gear saw (in front of my wife who decided that meant she could buy new shoes - wont make that mistake again ;))

My basic / fundamental tool list is as follows:

Worm gear saw
hand saw
3" chisel / slick
2" full tang chisel
hammer drill
auger
mallet

Cost wise it looks like Fox Maple is out of my reach. You can stay on the grounds at Fox Maple, but I'd still have to double the tuition for travel etc. I would dearly love to attend one of their Costa Rica classes.

Heartwood is better on the pocketbook but lodging would put it out of reach.

Grand Oaks is booked for April and there's no way I'll have vacation time by October (work is slow now and I'm burning through vacation time). I may just have to bite the bullet and wait anyway if I cant find something else on this side of the Mason Dixon line.

In the mean time I'll just tear up some 8x8's practicing!

Thanks for the advice!
Stealth Genius - even I dont know how smart I am!

Jim_Rogers

You really don't want to use a tang chisel for timber framing. We normally use socket chisels.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

Dave Shepard

I was about to add the same advice. We have a couple of Sorby chisels at work. The handles don't even stand up to beginners. I'd ruin one in minutes in a tough knot. Socket all the way for me.
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

max3dlee

Thank you so much for the advice! I'll be buying chisels shortly!

I was under the impression full tang would stand up better. Glad I reached out!
Stealth Genius - even I dont know how smart I am!

Dave Shepard

The wood has to be shaped so that neither the socket, nor the ring "bottom out". I might have pics somewhere. If they contact, it will split the handle. If they are correct, they will last a very long time, even being beaten by a No. 3 Garland mallet in a most severe manner. :D
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

max3dlee

Its details like that I'm only going to get from an education or experience. I could spend weeks reading about timber framing and never catch that.  :-\

I taught for a long time - theres only so much a book is going to teach you.

Thanks again!

(I'd like to see those pics if you find them)
Stealth Genius - even I dont know how smart I am!

Brian_Weekley

Quote from: max3dlee on March 08, 2016, 04:21:20 PM
Bought a worm gear saw (in front of my wife who decided that meant she could buy new shoes - wont make that mistake again ;))

My wife has a lot of shoes--many for that very reason.  However, my response is always the same, "you only have two feet, how many shoes do you really need?". LOL
e aho laula

Dave Shepard

Second try for this post. I must not have hit post. :D

First pic you can see the socket bring driven into the wood. Second pic, you can see where I've trimmed it back. If you keep the socket and the ring from bottoming out, the handle will last a very long time.



  



 
Wood-Mizer LT40HDD51-WR Wireless, Kubota L48, Honda Rincon 650, TJ208 G-S, and a 60"LogRite!

Howdy

Well Howdy back at ya,   bon_fire   

With all the shouting of my name, I guess I need to welcome you myself.     smiley_old_guy 

Good luck with your project and learning a worthy skill.   smiley_swinging_board

Brad_bb

Welcome Max3dlee! 
The basics to start are a decent framing square (I use the stainless one from Lee Valley, but you can use and aluminum Empire brand).
A hardwood mallet which you can make.
A 1.5 inch socket chisel (Jim Rogers sells good antique tools).  You can get a 2 inch later.  Don't bother with a Slick right off until you are really into it.  Be proficient with the chisel first.
You can use a lot of things to hog material out of a mortise- an Auger bit and drill.  You'll learn the importance of proper spurs on the auger to prevent tear out.  Scoring the mortise  lines with a knife helps prevent tear out from the auger bit too.
You don't necessarily need a worm drive saw.  You can start with a regular circ saw.  The important thing is, depending on if you are right handed or left handed, being able to see the blade on your line.  You do not rely on the zero marking on the base of the saw.  You watch the blade as it cuts along your line.
A good handsaw like a Stanley sharptooth saw.  They are pretty low cost at box stores, $25-$30 I think.  I believe Irwin now has an equivalent.  These saws have fine teeth and are not made to be sharpened.  They do last a good while though.
A good 25' tape is needed also. 
I have a good pocket knife that I use to mark with, a tile knife/razor knife can be used too for scoring lines.  Some timberframers don't like to use pencil because the pencil line is too fat.  Knife is more precise, but is not erasable. You'll start out with pencil, but keep in mine you may transition to knife.  Steve Chappell teaches to use razor knife.
Have fun!
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

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