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Best wood for homemade TF pegs

Started by Thehardway, April 27, 2005, 09:51:53 PM

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Thehardway

I've read many views on the virtues of different types of pegs.  Round Vs. Octagonal Vs. Square etc.  I have not however seen a poll of those involved in TF that takes all the following factors into consideration. I would like those who vote to vote for the wood based on the following criteria in order of importance:

1.  Assume pegs will be made not purchased
2.  Strength
3.  Stability
4.  Ease of Workability/use
5.  Beauty of finish
Norwood LM2000 24HP w/28' bed, Hudson Oscar 18" 32' bed, Woodmaster 718 planer,  Kubota L185D, Stihl 029, Husqvarna 550XP

Thehardway

Thanks to  all who voted!  Interesting results. ;D
Norwood LM2000 24HP w/28' bed, Hudson Oscar 18" 32' bed, Woodmaster 718 planer,  Kubota L185D, Stihl 029, Husqvarna 550XP

ARKANSAWYER

Hickory, ash and persimmion would be prone to PPB's so thus would not be a good choice in areas where they are common.   White oak is my choice above all others.  Now having said that I have used cherry and walnut pegs more for looks then any thing else.  This is just for info and I liked the poll.
ARKANSAWYER

hawby

Hey Arky,

I was told that the PPB's don't like Hemlock. Any truth to that? I don't have any, but sure would be nice to have something they don't like.
Hawby

Missin' loggin', but luvin' the steady check...

Thehardway

Arky,

Interesting info.  I have heard/read of all of the above being used and therefore included them.  I would like to hear what the "other" votes were for.  Maybe Osage Orange?
Norwood LM2000 24HP w/28' bed, Hudson Oscar 18" 32' bed, Woodmaster 718 planer,  Kubota L185D, Stihl 029, Husqvarna 550XP

clif

The only green hardwoods I have available are aspen, cottonwood, and birch.  I guess we do have alder, but it would be a real challenge to clamp something that small and saw it.  Is birch my best bet or should I use dried oak?  Any sugestions would be appreciated.  Thank you!
Mighty Myte Mark IV Band Saw Mill .  " Don't let the past hold you back"

ARKANSAWYER

  We do not have Hemlock this far south so I can tell you nothing about it.  I would not know a hemlock tree if it fell on my foot.

Clif,  I always use dry wood for pegs.  Wedges and pegs are best if they are dry.  Air dried is fine as they are going to settle to what area moisture is any way.

  Osage orange, locust (black and honey) as well as cypress have been used.  I have even pulled old heart pine pegs out of frames that were being taken down.
   A good solid dense wood is all that is required of a peg.  The grain should run straight down the peg and no knots of any size in it.  I use only woods that have 12 or more growth rings per inch.  This is where you get into the jawing about round pegs vs octagon pegs.  I do not like turned (dowel) pegs but it was the way I was raised and trained by the "old" school
  The way I have learned the most about timberframing is taking old buildings down.  What the framer did right is why the building stood so long.  If you look at old photos of Japan after the dropping of the atomic bombs most of the only buildings left standing were old timber frames.  Some burnt from the blast but were not knocked down.  It would have been great if someone could have gone in and did a survey of the buildings and noted how they were constructed.  But like the Bible says you can not build your house on sand.  A good footing and tight roof has alot to do with how long a building will last.
  If the joint is tight and right for the load and shear then peg failure is very rare.
ARKY
ARKANSAWYER

mike_van

Some old-timers  said Locust would last 2 years longer than stone.
I was the smartest 16 year old I ever knew.

Thehardway

Clif,

I would go for seasoned white oak like Arky says.  Definitely not Aspen, or Cottonwood which have little strength, little rot or insect resistance and tend to be soft.  Birch is plenty strong but also has little rot resistance.  It has always been a curious thing to me how you will find birch bark laying on the woods floor and it looks almost alive but the wood inside will be completely rotted out.  I think a birch branch starts rotting as it falls through the air.  Try for white oak.  If you get a headache pounding the Oak pegs you can chew on the Aspen.  LOL
Norwood LM2000 24HP w/28' bed, Hudson Oscar 18" 32' bed, Woodmaster 718 planer,  Kubota L185D, Stihl 029, Husqvarna 550XP

Don P

QuoteSome old-timers said Locust would last 2 years longer than stone.

:D :D
I've heard that around here too, I think it's a conservative estimate.

Any of you use a router table to make pegs? Seems like a roundover or chamfer bit would do the trick quickly.

I was trying to knock apart a newel post/ railing attachment a few years ago. I was driving me nuts and strong as could be. When I finally got the paint scraped back I got the offending peg out, heart pine and despite the hard use that a railing sees was still quite strong. The framers on that house had even done pegged mortise and tenon door casings.

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