What features to get when buying a Log Splitter?

[Oliver1655]

I have had been very happy with the engines I have purchased from Harbor Freight.  Greyhound which was fazed out & replaced by the Predator brand.

What type of wood are you splitting?  If mostly straight grained & are of a size you can pick the rounds up without straining your back, the kinetic / flywheel splitters such as a Super Splitter are hard to beat.

If you have mostly stringy/gnarly wood, a hydraulic would be my preference.

As far as tonage,  it varies with cylinder bore size & what the pressure relief valve is set at.  So instead I will suggest according to bore size.  I have a 4" bore by 24" stroke cylinder with the pressure relief set at 2,500 psi. Using a single edged wedge with a sharp edge it will split anything I want, elm, cottonwood, hedge, ...  with the 4 way wedge I stay away from elm larger than 18" diameter unless I have noodled the round in half first.  Cycle time is 8.8 sec.  A 4 or 4.5" bore cylinder will provide you with splitting power while still having good cycle times.

The standard valve on wood splitters require you to hold the handle while splitting & have a detente which will hold the handle on the return stroke which will automatically release when the pressure builds up as it is completely retracted.

If you are planning to have a horizontal/vertical splitter, you can normally find a 22 ton (4" bore cylinder) on sale for around $1,000.  Hard to build one for that price unless you have materials already on hand. You can easily upgrade the pump/engine latter if you want more speed.

If you want a vertical you can work at while standing up, you could easily take one of the horizontal/vertical splitters & set it up on a trailer frame.  If you can go a step further & cut your logs over a trailer then you would be able to just roll the rounds to the splitter.

I am too old to work off the ground so, I started with a dedicated horizontal splitter with out-feed tables made with pipes to let the debris fall through then added a log lift & later a 4 way wedge.  I have a tractor with forks so I made my bucking stand to set on a trailer.  This allows me to work standing up with minimal bending over.  Can work all day without stressing my back.


 

The larger rounds can be rolled directly onto the log lift.  I will pile the log lift full of rounds then start the splitter.  This saves fuel & steps.

At the end of the splitter I can either have pallets/crates staged to pile the firewood into or use my elevator.

[jdonovan]

Given that you want to handle up to 24" logs, I'd suggest a powered log lifter vs a horiz/vertical convertible.

My vote for splitters is timberwolf. To use a quote from another forum... Buy once cry once. You will find almost no one with complaints about TW's quality, splitting power etc.. the only thing you hear complaints on is price.

The bigger TW's will run a 4-way or some will even run a 6-way, and I've found they make a huge difference in production rates. I started with a 4, and recently added a 6-way. Big difference, 14-16" rounds + a 6-way, means single pass, no resplitting.

I find I can run a cord (128 cu-ft) in about an hour on my TW3 if I'm pushing hard, about 1/2 that if I'm running more leisurely pace, or smaller wood. I'm splitting about 20-30 cords a year between me and neighbors.

[32vld]

What type of wood are you splitting?  If mostly straight grained & are of a size you can pick the rounds up without straining your back, the kinetic / flywheel splitters such as a Super Splitter are hard to beat.

If you have mostly stringy/gnarly wood, a hydraulic would be my preference.

As far as tonage,  it varies with cylinder bore size & what the pressure relief valve is set at.  So instead I will suggest according to bore size.  I have a 4" bore by 24" stroke cylinder with the pressure relief set at 2,500 psi. Using a single edged wedge with a sharp edge it will split anything I want, elm, cottonwood, hedge, ...  with the 4 way wedge I stay away from elm larger than 18" diameter unless I have noodled the round in half first.  Cycle time is 8.8 sec.  A 4 or 4.5" bore cylinder will provide you with splitting power while still having good cycle times.

I split rounds that I can not pick up. A lot of good info that I had not read before. Thanks.

[32vld]

Given that you want to handle up to 24" logs, I'd suggest a powered log lifter vs a horiz/vertical convertible.

My vote for splitters is timberwolf. To use a quote from another forum... Buy once cry once. You will find almost no one with complaints about TW's quality, splitting power etc.. the only thing you hear complaints on is price.

The bigger TW's will run a 4-way or some will even run a 6-way, and I've found they make a huge difference in production rates. I started with a 4, and recently added a 6-way. Big difference, 14-16" rounds + a 6-way, means single pass, no resplitting.

I find I can run a cord (128 cu-ft) in about an hour on my TW3 if I'm pushing hard, about 1/2 that if I'm running more leisurely pace, or smaller wood. I'm splitting about 20-30 cords a year between me and neighbors.

Good points.

I am leaning towards a horizontal with a power lift and table. I want to eliminate picking up splits off the ground. Just grab the splits off of the table and toss them into a wheel barrow.

[jaygtree]

goose63-  thanks for the great pic. now i know how i'll be lifting the big ones next year. 

i started with a 6 pound mall in 1976. put the 5th handle on it two years ago.  last year i bought a pro model DR flywheel splitter that i should have gotten years ago. had to replace the muffler on the suburu engine. DR sent me a different style muffler at no charge. i had some cracks in the tires and they replaced those too at no charge rims and all.  you definitely want a work table.  i've split about 15 cords(128 cubic feet) and would find it hard not to have an anxiety attack if i had to wait for a typical hydraulic splitter. just thinking about it makes me want to take a lorazapam. the flywheel splitters are really fast even at 1/2 throttle which splits almost all of my red oak. on the really tuff ones i step it up to full throttle. i pull the splitter thru the woods with my 4 wheeler from tree to tree. a hydraulic lift would be real nice if you get a hydraulic splitter. those 24 inchers get heavier each year.  jayg

[coxy]

does any one make a 36in splitter  don't have the time to make one and it would not look vary safe if I did  ;D

[jdonovan]

does any one make a 36in splitter  don't have the time to make one and it would not look vary safe if I did

Timberwolf has several 36" models. I've got one, tractor 3-pt mount, with a 20 GPM pto pump.

[John Mc]

My vote for splitters is timberwolf. To use a quote from another forum... Buy once cry once. You will find almost no one with complaints about TW's quality, splitting power etc.. the only thing you hear complaints on is price.

Timberwolf is also one of the very few splitter manufacturers who puts honest tonnage ratings on their splitters. If the splitter is rated for 25 tons, it actually puts out 25 tons of splitting force.

Most manufacturers cite specifications that are severely optimistic. For example, a splitter advertised as "20 Ton" with a 4" cylinder operated at the manufacturer's specified 2250 PSI actually puts out just a little over 14 tons, if you do the math (and ignore losses to friction). On the other hand, ig it splits what you need it to split, who cares what the sticker says?

[jdonovan]

On the other hand, if it splits what you need it to split, who cares what the sticker says?

If I think I need 15T and buy a tool with a 15T sticker, and it really only puts out 10T; I care a lot about what the sticker says, because I can no longer use it to compare products if the advertised capacity is a bald face lie.

The Tonnage game is also being played by having a 3000, or 4000 or more PSI capable cylinder on a pump that puts out less PSI. The 'cylinder' might be a 15T, but on the brand X splitter it can't ever produce 15T because the pump can't make the pressure needed to get the full rating.

[sawguy21]

I just found out about flywheel splitters. Youtube showed a wide range of flywheel designs. I liked the old machine that used a belt driven flywheel to operate a crankshaft with a wedge mounted on the end of a connecting rod to drive a wedge down into a log to split it.

I also heard about new flywheel splitter that uses a rack and pinion gears. Yes the cycle time is fast. Though you can not have a 4 way splitter. Thing is I see gears coming together and apart will eventually lead to excessive gear clearance causing the gears to shear or strip.

So who is for hydraulic or rack and pinion splitters? Why?

I have  tried both and prefer the hydraulic. The Gripo (Canadian Super Split) was faster as long as everything was working properly but at my age I can't keep up so who cares. The big problem was the return. The beam got coated with pitch and the ram hung up, Pam or WD40 helped to a point but it needed to be kept clean so the ram would retract completely. Stronger return springs stalled the ram on the forward stroke. The small bearings between the ram and the beam didn't stand up well either.

[John Mc]

On the other hand, if it splits what you need it to split, who cares what the sticker says?

If I think I need 15T and buy a tool with a 15T sticker, and it really only puts out 10T; I care a lot about what the sticker says, because I can no longer use it to compare products if the advertised capacity is a bald face lie.

The question is, how do you know you need a 15 ton splitter? So far, I've only found one splitter company with honest ratings. If you are basing your need for 15T on the rating of other splitters you were using, odds are, you are basing that perceived need on a manufacturer's lie.

[jdonovan]

The question is, how do you know you need a 15 ton splitter? So far, I've only found one splitter company with honest ratings. If you are basing your need for 15T on the rating of other splitters you were using, odds are, you are basing that perceived need on a manufacturer's lie.

If everyone lies but one company, then when you look at everything else, how do you know who is lying and how much?

I think we generally agree that it is hard/impossible to compare spliter ratings without doing your own homework and figuring pump pressure, cylinder bore on extend and return, flow rate etc... to truly make comparisons.

Honestly given the recent lawsuits and success against the air compressor makers for over rating their products, I'm surprised some opportunistic lawyer hasn't tried to establish a class, and suit against the chi-com product vendors about mis-rated hydraulic products.

[DMcCoy]

I looked around before making my decision a couple of years ago.  I considered making my own but the 4 main parts alone were almost as much as buying new.  I ended up with a Troy Built 28T.  Horz/vert 2 stage pump, honda engine, auto retract valve, tires, 2" ball hitch, hyd oil -> ready to use.  Starts quick, runs well, splits good.  Has plates to remove wedge from wood on retracting. 

Firewood has so much handling involved.  I looked at every step from tree to wood stove.  I built a firewood 'chopsaw' using a chainsaw and a 14" blade, roller conveyor and a 10" wide x 12' powered belt conveyor to haul off the chunks.  Works great for up to 12" short logs and the bigger stuff I just cut on the ground.  The conveyor I also use next to the splitter.  The conveyor is the best helper I have.

[John Mc]

[quote author=jdonovan link=topic=77399.msg1190523#msg1190523 ...I'm surprised some opportunistic lawyer hasn't tried to establish a class, and suit against the chi-com product vendors about mis-rated hydraulic products.
[/quote]

It' not just Chinese product vendors. The US manufacturers do it as well.

[32vld]

[quote author=jdonovan link=topic=77399.msg1190523#msg1190523 ...I'm surprised some opportunistic lawyer hasn't tried to establish a class, and suit against the chi-com product vendors about mis-rated hydraulic products.

It' not just Chinese product vendors. The US manufacturers do it as well.
[/quote]

There was a big law suit with small engine horse power ratings being exaggerated. Notice how small engine's for a while where being labeled by Displacement instead of HP?

[NEPAGUNNER]

I have had my share of log splitters... What works for me might not be best for you but anyways... I had a 12 ton, Earthquake brand, gas powered(okay but bent the hell out of the blade, sold it) next I had a 22 ton Airens(from Home Depot, returned it) horz/vertical, the splitter was a bit slow at times with just a 6HP Subaru motor, but would split the knottiest oak you have ever seen, but the problem was some of the bigger oak logs had a 60"- 80" inch diameter and were well over 200 pounds... I'm 29 years old and had my 33 year old brother help roll the logs near the splitter and the logs were just too heavy, even though they had to be lifted a few inches to sit on the foot of splitter to split in the vertical position... Still too heavy, crushed fingers underneath trying to log get into position... Before I had any of these splitters my dad had a Rayco... Similar to Timberwolf TW/7 actually so similar that timberwolf sued rayco and now rayco no longer offers any log splitters... It had Log lift, hyd adj 4-way splitter... And that was fun to use... No heavy lifting no BS... It got the job done... But costs 8k... And he has since sold it... That being said I just pre ordered a RuggedMade Splitter, due to ship October 30th. I need a log lift for the heavy logs and the lift also acts as table to stack and normal size logs you want split...  The 4-way splitter is a must for me!!! It negates the need for me to run my normal 12-16 inch diameter logs thru the splitter many times... I need a once and done...  It also has a 30" stroke, elec and pull start, 37 Ton rating, 15HP motor, 22GPM pump, Fixed Blade, Push Through Log Splitter - Includes Log Lift  and Log Catcher Tray... For 3k it seems like a great deal... Any comparable unit is 5k and up... Some people claim that the 37 ton rating is BS... I will have to see... I know what the Airens did as a 22 ton, and I think the Rayco was a 35 ton so I will compare it to them for now... Just some food for thought... When I get this splitter in my hands, or in my yard rather, I'll write a review, until then, Happy Splitting!

[beenthere]

A previous thread on this one maybe.
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=71301.0

[sawguy21]

Those 4 way splitters look impressive but need a stout machine to make them work. We made one for a 5 hp unit, probably around 20 ton rating. It wouldn't do the job so we upgraded to an 8 hp and cranked down the relief valve. Bent the ram.
Conventional splitters work for home use but are too labor intensive for high production. Want volume? Step up to a processor.

[NEPAGUNNER]

The rugged made splitter I just ordered has a 37 Ton rating, 15 Horsepower Motor... Should be stout enough to split a few logs

[thecfarm]

NEPAGUNNER,welcome to the forum.

[Hilltop366]

I have never used one but 25 years ago some people around here were building vertical splitters, the splitter has a table at about waste height and ran off a tractor pto while mounted on the 3 point hitch. To me this layout looked like the most comfortable setup I have seen. Kind of like this only different.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xMTbD2B9VgE

[36 coupe]

I have used hydraulic splitters but find a small 5 ton electric splitter works fine.One hand operation..Speeco  cost 300 bucks, have seen it for 250.00 on sale.You can use it on the tailgate of a pickup.Most go nuts splitting wood.Friend just told me he split less and used less wood.

[NEPAGUNNER]

NEPAGUNNER,welcome to the forum.

Thank You, it's been great so far

[Just Me]

 I split this years wood by hand, and was starting on next years when I hit three stubborn logs in a row. My left shoulder is shot, and it just seemed stupid to be hurrying my demise, so I drove to the store and bought a splitter. I was actually going to pick up an Areins because I liked the layout, but they had a 22 Dirty Hands with a Kohler for *$899. I made a tray out of 1/4" diamond plate for one side, on the side of the motor so it is protected, and it has been all smiles. Mostly because my wife loves to run it! We put up next years wood in two weekends and the Fiskers never got picked up. Has been good so far.

My shoulder still hurts, but I wonder how bad it would hurt if I had split by hand?........

A little PS: I am that old guy that was real proud of how I could split wood. I'm 58 with a lot of hard miles and continuing to split by hand when I could afford to buy a splitter was just plain stupid! I am now looking at a shoulder replacement as my next option.

Just buy the darn splitter guys, save your body for more important things..........

[gimpy]

Spent 15 years in a wheelchair. Limited stamina. 2 shoulder surgeries on each shoulder. Two total knee replacements on the same day. Need to heat my home with wood. Decided to buy a DR Power Rapid Fire (more expensive) to split as much wood as possible with my limited stamina. I load my pickup bed with rounds at the tree and bring them home. I roll the rounds off my tailgate onto the splitter's table. Very little secondary lifting effort. My 5' 100# wife and I can really produce firewood for ourselves in no time at all. In fact, I have helped out neighbors with their winter needs because it take so little time and effort. This machine is put up against a 34 ton hydraulic splitter with impressive results.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pG7Ytb3M-B4&spfreload=10

One of the best investments I made when I move to a rural home.