Live edge siding

Bruno of NH · March 06, 2016, 05:16:32 PM

I have a job coming up that the owner wants live edge siding .
Any sawing tips on this kind of siding ?
Thanks Bruno

Ox · March 06, 2016, 05:49:03 PM

What a sweet job that'll be! No edging! Flat saw and flip the cant accordingly for tension is all I can think of. Basic as basic can be.

Chuck White · March 06, 2016, 07:14:25 PM

I don't get the chance to saw Adirondack Siding very often, but it goes pretty quick.

Makes for a nice sawjob!

VTwoodworker · March 06, 2016, 07:16:29 PM

I assume this will be horizontal lap siding. This type of siding installs much better if there is one wild edge and one straight edge with a relatively consistent width. Then the question is how "wild" the customer wants the edge. If the logs are not limbed tight or they are not straight then the wild edge will have more character. Once you decide on the look turn the log to use the most desirable edge. Sounds like a fun project. Good luck.

bkaimwood · March 06, 2016, 07:36:23 PM

X2...one edged side and one live edge is best for install AND sawing...flat flitch sawing is tougher on blades, and is higher risk for some slight inconsistencies due to "bark sawing". I recommend opening 3 faces, and putting the bark side on the exit side of the cut...much less blade wear, nicer lumber...

fishfighter · March 06, 2016, 07:39:28 PM

Quote from: bkaimwood on March 06, 2016, 07:36:23 PM
X2...one edged side and one live edge is best for install AND sawing...flat flitch sawing is tougher on blades, and is higher risk for some slight inconsistencies due to "bark sawing". I recommend opening 3 faces, and putting the bark side on the exit side of the cut...much less blade wear, nicer lumber...

Good tip. ;D

WV Sawmiller · March 06, 2016, 07:44:46 PM

Quote from: bkaimwood on March 06, 2016, 07:36:23 PM
X2...one edged side and one live edge is best for install AND sawing...flat flitch sawing is tougher on blades, and is higher risk for some slight inconsistencies due to "bark sawing". I recommend opening 3 faces, and putting the bark side on the exit side of the cut...much less blade wear, nicer lumber...

BK,

I understand the saw 3 concept but looks to me like it would be much better to put the sawed side against the side rails and clamp the live/bark side. I know on my mill it would clamp tighter with the sawed side on the exit side. Of course I'd still need to run the debarker. May have to test the bark against the side on mine in the near future to confirm how that works.

bkaimwood · March 06, 2016, 07:50:01 PM

No doubt you'll have to watch it when it gets down to 2 or 3"... But on at 12" or better cant, you should be able to saw 75% of it as mentioned... 75% is alot when it comes to blade life and quality sawn products...Let us know how it works out for you...

GAB · March 06, 2016, 08:03:01 PM

Does anyone have a video of sawing siding as described?
I'm trying to envision how to saw it.
Gerald

Peter Drouin · March 07, 2016, 06:55:38 AM

I cut them ¾" and cut 3 faces off, put the ruff face out on the clamp side and cut to the bed. With accuset 2 it's easy. I give the customer a ¾"x2" starter strip to kick out the first one. All the trim is 2"

I tell the customer to nail the top of the thing to hang the board, then give them time to dry and just before they start to cup nail the bottom edge. That way they won't split.
Use galvanized nails or SS.

47sawdust · March 07, 2016, 07:06:26 AM

Peter,
Nice shed.Good idea on the nailing sequence too.Just remember to go back and nail the bottom edge or you will have scalloped siding.A Darwin candidate here sided his whole house with spruce clapboards,only nailing the top edge,he didn't want to see any fasteners,the results were not good.

Bruno of NH · March 07, 2016, 07:29:09 AM

I don't have good luck with the spruce clapboards . The grade is never that good .
Bruno

Bruno of NH · March 07, 2016, 07:35:07 AM

I'm going to saw the siding this spring then sticker and stack it .
Building the owner a new house in spring of 2017 . 36 x 40 salt box with 13x16 bump out . It's some kind of timber frame kit . I will sub framing out and do the siding and interior finish .
Bruno

47sawdust · March 07, 2016, 08:01:08 AM

Quote from: Bruno of NH on March 07, 2016, 07:29:09 AM
I don't have good luck with the spruce clapboards . The grade is never that good .
Bruno

Try ¼ sawn spruce,very stable,expensive,traditional N.E. product.Ward's clapboard mill Maine and Vermont.There may be other's but I am familiar with these.I know the product you are talking about and they can be frustrating to use.

terrifictimbersllc · March 07, 2016, 08:13:36 AM

Good advice above. I'll add that the exercise is one of picking the best natural edge, putting that face down, sawing off the opposite edge, then sawing the boards. You will want to discuss how wide the boards should be, reveal plus hidden, beforehand so you can pick the best range of widths. All the wavy edge siding I've cut was hemlock and it was a lot of fun.

Ox · March 07, 2016, 10:00:15 AM

:D I guess live edge means a little bit more in other areas than it does here! Here, it'll just be flat sawing through and through and "here's your live edge boards!"