mud saw debarker

[jdunmyer]

I've seen what I believe are called "mud saws" on stationary circle-type sawmills; they're a hinged frame with a wide-toothed saw blade that the sawyer pulls down to clean a dirty log. Now, I've also noticed that most of them appear to be relatively unused. Are they useful? If so, where do I get a suitable blade and bits? Building the device shouldn't be a big problem.

[Bibbyman]

Are you sure you're not seeing a top saw?

[jdunmyer]

Not even close. The device I'm talking about amounts to a hinged frame, generally attached to the building structure above and ahead of the saw. It has a motor, a small arbor mounted in a couple of pillow block bearings, and a smallish saw blade, maybe 10" diameter, with inserted teeth. The bits are about 3/4" wide, IIRC. They have some sort of automatic switch, so when the operator lowers the saw by grabbing the handle, the motor starts. The idea is that the "saw" cuts off the bark and mud just ahead of the main saw, thus saving it from abuse and keeping it sharp longer. I believe that WoodMizer sells something similar for their rigs.

Again, my questions: are these things actually useful; if so, where do I get a blade?

[Jeff]

There was one listed in our for sale area for awhile. I deleted the ad after it was sold. I'll see if I can find the old ad.

[Jeff]

I took it out of our recycle bin and put it back in for sale so you could see it. I think this is what you were referring to Jim? I have never saw one in use so I cant answer your questions. maybe the photos will stir some ones memory. 

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=18442.0


from that thread:

Sawed with one, it throwed a lot of bark . But made clean spot for the headsaw to run. If there were stones in the bark and it hit one en the edge it could gothe lenght of the mill fast. That stuff stung when it hit. Themill I was working in had no debarker before Art got that rig we spent a lot of time cleaning logs with an axe. This was faster and easier and saved a lot on inserts.
                            Junkyard

[jdunmyer]

Jeff,
That's exactly what I'm talking about. Too bad it's already sold.  :(

We're sawing some muddy logs lately, and it seems like I'm dragging out the ol' Jockey grinder about every other log. One of these things might be just the ticket.

[Jeff]

Contact the buyer Jim. He might never have used it.

[dlrfarms]

Hi ;Regarding the mudsaw that was listed on here for sale. I now own it,didn't get it installed yet ;but its about next on the list of things to do at the mill. Therefore it is not for sale.   Thanks ... Don

[Fla._Deadheader]

Lookin at the photo, can't be all that hard to build.  Need a Plasma cutter to make the blade ???  :

[jdunmyer]

I agree that it shouldn't be too hard to build, all I need is the blade. Of course, that might well be more expensive than the whole project is worth.  :(

Don,
I'd like to know how that works out when you get it going.

[Fla._Deadheader]

Any decent welding shop with a Plasma cutter should whip one out pretty quickly.

  Use tool steel for cutters, brazed on ??

  They could build the collar and drill for bolts all at the same time.

[Jeff]

Jim, I see the blade pictured is an insert. I would think that would be the only way to go as the thing will get some real abuse.  I'll send the photo to Peach at Menominee Saw and see if they have anything like it.

[Bibbyman]

Sawed with one, it throwed a lot of bark . But made clean spot for the headsaw to run. If there were stones in the bark and it hit one en the edge it could gothe lenght of the mill fast. That stuff stung when it hit. Themill I was working in had no debarker before Art got that rig we spent a lot of time cleaning logs with an axe. This was faster and easier and saved a lot on inserts.
                            Junkyard

This was a comment made on the for sale thread Jeff linked.

I've noted this to be a problem with debarkers used on band mills. 

We had a Jones debaker on our old Wood-Mizer that was set up with a blade with pretty aggressive teeth.  It would throw chips and junk hard enough to leave mark or even break skin. It would make you want to wear a face shield.



The blades used on the Wood-Mizer debarker have the carbide teeth set at a negative rake and have no gullet.  They can't cut very deep – thus they can't not make large chips.

The Baker debarker uses a circle blade with a chainsaw chain.  It seems to work well.  Tom Stout commented it even works better when the teeth are dull.

I've seen other debarkers used on band mills that use a stack of inexpensive carbide tipped skill saw blades.   

Also,  I've seen one set up with a skill saw type blade that was mounted on the arbor at a slight angle so it would wobble when it cut – thus made a wider path.  Another way would be to set it up so the arbor is at an angle to the cutting path so the blade would cut a wider path.

I've also seen debakers set up with the carbide tipped blade sandwiched between a couple of disks of steel a little smaller in diameter than the blade – thus limiting the depth the blade would cut. 

[JimBuis]

It sounds to me that a guy could use a dado set from a table saw in lieu of having some sort of expensive one made.  Just a thought.

Jim

[customsawyer]

I use the debarker blade that WM sends with the mill and I have a extra blade for it. Every time I send my edger blades off I switch blades on the debarker and they retip it for $16.00 with a wider tip than WM used to start with and it works very well but it will send some stuff back at you like Bibbyman said that will make you run for cover.