Newbie needs help drying logs

jawallaby · June 11, 2008, 12:15:22 PM

Hello, I am trying to build a Wing Chun dummy.

I am trying to figure out how I go about drying or preparing the wood for the center post. I am planning on using Oak from trees that have been knocked down by recent storms. Can anyone give me advice on the following:
A. Tips for selecting the tree.
B. Can I figure out precise or rough MC myself?
C. How long should I cut the peice in order to end up with a 5.5ft center post that is about 8" across after trimming/sanding
D. How to dry the wood to reduce damage?

I appreciate any suggestions you might have.

Jason

http://www.wle.com/media/MW8.jpg

Brad_bb · June 11, 2008, 05:54:42 PM

Grasshopper(If you're too young it's from the TV show Kung Fu),
to get some enlightenment, first read this recent post from the timberframe/log page:
https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,31750.0.html
Get your log to the diameter you need or pretty close, make it longer than your finished length by at least a foot on each end I think. Seal the ends and let it seaon in the shade or in a barn. Keep it out of the sun, and heat, keep it off the ground with room or airflow around it and let it season(no bark on it). Kill any mold/mildew with a 10 percent bleach solution the first couple weeks if needed. I'd also keep beetles awaywith a light fog of Sevin or boric acid mix every couple of weeks until it's dry enough that the beetle larvae cannot bore into it. I'd let it season at least a year or so before shaping it. You may not want to apply a finish for a few years so it can dry enough to not trap moisture inside. Unfortuneatly you probably don't want to wait that long.

Den Socling · June 12, 2008, 05:39:41 PM

I would suggest a straight log which would have no stressed green wood.

If you're going to turn it while green, I would make the pith off center. The side closest to the pith will crack and relieve the drying stress.

To see if it is dry enough, toss a sample into a microwave. If it deforms, it is still too wet. Cut samples at least 4" from the end. You may want to dry a second piece for destructive testing.

Coat the ends with a wax emulsion end-sealer.

My first guesses. ;)

jawallaby · June 13, 2008, 08:13:06 AM

Thanks to both of you. Not too young, grew up on Kung Fu, won't tell how long I thought Carradine was actually part chinese..

When you say to keep them away from the heat, what temp are you thinking is the highest I would want them in? Do you think my attic would be too hot/dry? I live in NC so it gets fairly toasty up there. I was thinking about building a very small drying 'shed' in my back yard which would be just large enough to hold the two logs I want to use. I was going to do something similar to the solar kiln plans from VA Tech (much smaller though) with solar powered DC fans on each end to keep air moving. I understand that I don't want them to dry too fast but I would love to get them dry sooner than a year.

Brad_bb · June 14, 2008, 08:21:45 PM

By heat, the heat of the sun. You don't want the sun heating it up in the day and cooling at night. You want a constant moderate temperature. No I wouldn't put it in the attic. Outside is fine in the shade and sheltered from rain. Or in a shed. You can't tell a mountain to hurry up, and you can't tell a log to either. If you need it in such a hurry, then find someone that has a smaller sized log that is seasoned already that is not heavily checked. Don't know where you live, but if you could find someone local with one that could trim it up for you too...
Whether you are building a house, a boat, or a Wing Chun dummy... of shortest time, lowest cost, and high quality, you can have two out of the three, never all three.

bck · June 17, 2008, 04:50:05 AM

You could cut the log into 4/4 so it would dry quicker then glue it back up after dry. A piece glued up from 4/4 boards would be stronger anyway ( if done right ). Oak is going to take longer than most anything else to dry.