HELP! circle mill..no name. Backwards?

StoneCreek · January 05, 2018, 11:49:11 PM

I come from a large family who operated a community saw mill for 3/4 of the 20th century. I was too young to actually be around it when it became obsolete, shut down, sold off, and long gone. I am a builder and have always had a wood shop and made things.. I had a band saw briefly years ago. Wasn't impressed..really! I have always wanted a circle mill. I think it's just in my blood.
So. Last Saturday, I bought a decent setup at an auction. But was not present. Haha. Looked good in pic. Long story short. Somebody threw some John Deere green and yellow on it and well. Let's say, it needs a little TLC. But I'm in no hurry.
What I know about it...It has the letter "V" in the casting. There are no other markings or identifications. It's PTO SHAFT driven. The sawyer position and the whole direction of the feed of the saw seems to be backward of EVERYTHING I've watched, seen pics of, or read about.
Can someone help me out?

JB Griffin · January 06, 2018, 12:13:50 AM

What you have is a left hand mill. Somewhat common, not unheard of. Other than that I can tell you nothing, good luck.

longtime lurker · January 06, 2018, 05:38:09 AM

Nothing wrong with a lefty. Your PTO hookup, does it have a gear box or twist belt or similar? Standard tractor PTO's turn the wrong way to drive a left hand mill and you need to be able to reverse the rotation, most left hand mills tend to be run off stationary motors.

Bad information about rotation direction. I knew that a mill was easily configured for PTO on one hand and required a rotational direction change for the other. I just got them wrong. Easy to tell I'm not used to PTO drives huh? Thanks to those who corrected me.

Rigg · January 06, 2018, 05:51:07 AM

Looks like a JA Vance setworks. I'm sure someone will know for sure.

Chuck White · January 06, 2018, 06:55:44 AM

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, StoneCreek!

StoneCreek · January 06, 2018, 10:57:49 AM

Thank you for the comments and welcoming. Despite single digit temps, I went out to the farm and took some better pics. I will post those. I was coming to the conclusion it was a "lefty". How much work would it take to change it to a right hand. What do you all think of the carriage and the way it's set up otherwise, other than the logs taken out from under it and put on it to saw! lol Any and all help very much appreciated. I know nothing so...

StoneCreek · January 06, 2018, 11:02:47 AM

https://forestryforum.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=lastup&cat=48281&pid=238948#top_display_media
https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/48281/thumb_IMG_2313.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1515253636

StoneCreek · January 06, 2018, 11:09:37 AM

StoneCreek · January 06, 2018, 11:12:01 AM

It has a 42" blade and I would really like to know more about it specifically if anyone can help there. Maybe a place I could take it within 100 miles of Knoxville to have it hammered and buy the correct teeth.

StoneCreek · January 06, 2018, 11:16:06 AM

Corley5 · January 06, 2018, 11:39:47 AM

Quote from: longtime lurker on January 06, 2018, 05:38:09 AM
Nothing wrong with a lefty. Your PTO hookup, does it have a gear box or twist belt or similar? Standard tractor PTO's turn the wrong way to drive a left hand mill and you need to be able to reverse the rotation, most left hand mills tend to be run off stationary motors.

Right hand mills turn the wrong direction to be powered directly from a tractor PTO. Left hand mills can have the PTO shaft hooked directly to the mandrel.

StoneCreek · January 06, 2018, 12:01:12 PM

CORLEY5. Oh I see. Is that your tractor driving a mill? Do you have pics of the mill?

Ron Wenrich · January 06, 2018, 12:05:14 PM

Nothing wrong with a left handed mill. I sawed on one for 25 yrs. To switch over, you would probably have to reverse your pulley system, and that would be a job.

What are you intending to saw on the mill? How much? Your maximum depth of cut on that blade would be around 16-17".

Corley5 · January 06, 2018, 12:08:42 PM

That's mine

It's been disassembled, moved and is in storage awaiting reassembly. There's pics in my gallery https://forestryforum.com/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=246&page=1 I have a second left hand Corley 5 that we hauled home from south central Missouri.

StoneCreek · January 06, 2018, 12:35:11 PM

Ron, yeah its a small blade. I probably will look into a larger diameter. I have a 70 horse 282 Massey I am going to pull it with. What came on it, so I may saw some smaller soft wood until then

moodnacreek · January 06, 2018, 05:43:36 PM

Somewhere I'v seen the 2 reach rods before, maybe in C.H.Wendell,s book 'circular sawmills. Your saw looks like a style 3. That mill being a l\h could be tractor pto driven like in the post with the IH tractor. The saw would have to be happy at 500rpm.

Corley5 · January 06, 2018, 07:14:13 PM

Style 3s have two holes in the shank for the wrench pins. I think you may have a 2 1/2.

http://www.simondsint.com/circularsaws/Pages/products.aspx?SITerm=701b714f-be4e-42d7-8db7-6d196e8fc8c9

dgdrls · January 06, 2018, 07:41:00 PM

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=87292.0

similar thread and..

D

moodnacreek · January 06, 2018, 08:43:28 PM

Sorry about that style 3 comment. That would be 2 1/2. When Simonds made style 3 super shanks they only had 1 hole but these are seldom seen.

StoneCreek · January 06, 2018, 09:02:23 PM

I'm thinking 3 style with a regular bit..

StoneCreek · January 06, 2018, 09:06:15 PM

OH! I see the hole is kinda centered in the apex of the arch.
So am I going to be able to replace these things or no?

Corley5 · January 06, 2018, 11:26:22 PM

Menominee Saw, a forum sponsor over on the left, will set you right up

8)

Ron Wenrich · January 07, 2018, 07:01:12 AM

You'll need a saw wrench to take out the shanks. I always sprayed mine down with a penetrating oil like Rust Reaper and let it sit for a while. Makes it easier to take them out. I also always had extra pins handy for the wrench. They break at inopportune times.

StoneCreek · January 07, 2018, 01:25:17 PM

Okay...UPDATE! I've found MORE numbers! AND letters! So, in other words, the "V" I referenced in the first few posts was NOT an initial for a name.. The "v" is on the head blocks. There is a "B 40" on the mandrel. There is an "N 289" on one side of the head block adjustment lever and an "N 290" on the other side of the same lever. SO.. My thoughts are, this was a kit. All the pieces were labeled and it was put together. I still can't find and names. I did find numbers on the bits, and shanks. IT IS a 2 1/2 shank regular. However, there are several sizes of bits in the shanks. I found #8's, #9's, and atleast one #10 bit in it. Pretty sure that wont work...well. It has 44 teeth and is 42" in diameter. I also found numbers near the eye of the saw.

dgdrls · January 07, 2018, 03:01:07 PM

2-1/2 pattern is the smallest gullet, thus more teeth. You'll want to
get set-up with a matched set of bits and shanks.

What was the number at the saw eye?.

Best

D

Ron Wenrich · January 07, 2018, 04:30:21 PM

Numbers on the saw should give you how the saw was originally manufactured. They usually include a L or R to indicate how it was originally hammered. Also will have a RPM number, and a serial number.

The numbers on the carriage and the like may be that you have parts of a bunch of mills that are put together to make a mill. Nothing wrong with that, as most mills function the same. Usually a mfg had all their parts start with a letter that signifies the company. I don't know where you would find that listing.

StoneCreek · January 07, 2018, 09:16:13 PM

Numbers on the saw

doghunter · January 07, 2018, 09:35:37 PM

That's actually a really good mill to drive directly from a tractor pto. just hook the pto shaft directly to the mandrel.The saw is a 2&1/2 pattern it's a pine saw perfect for sawing medium sized pine logs. bits and shanks are readily available If you change saws the new saw will have to be hammered for a left hand mill.Good luck.

JB Griffin · January 07, 2018, 11:00:04 PM

From what I can make out thats a 8/9 gauge saw. I don't know what the other number is.

Darrel · January 08, 2018, 11:06:56 AM

Welcome to the forum StoneCreek! Looks like you have a very nice mill!

StoneCreek · January 08, 2018, 08:12:07 PM

What's the difference in regular and long tip saw bits?

StoneCreek · January 08, 2018, 08:22:23 PM

And chrome?

Ron Wenrich · January 09, 2018, 05:56:48 AM

There is a bit more steel on the long bit over the regular bit. I went with a long bit right after they first came out. They lasted a few more sharpenings, and they didn't need to be swaged. They also stood up better to debris without breaking off corners.

Chrome is coated on the bits and they stay sharper for a longer time. The problem with them is you when you need to sharpen, you will have to grind the plating off on the first sharpening. After that, you'll be able to use a hand file. But, the chrome will be hard on the files. It sounds nice, but I'm not sure it is cost effective, especially for a small mill. I used chrome on my edger saws. I flipped back and forth with using chrome on my head saw. But, I had a grinder to help in saw maintenance.

On your saw numbers, the 8 and 9 are the gauge of the saw. The 9 is at the eye, and the 8 is on the rim, if I'm not mistaken. I would think the other numbers are probably some sort of serial number.

moodnacreek · January 09, 2018, 08:10:39 AM

The problem with long bits is the manufacturing. They are some times distorted off to one side and not repairable. Chrome is my favorite [in regular] used with super shanks. I file with a diamond file mounted in a hack saw frame and use the Dexter file guide. Although I have several electric grinders and use them also, the file guide is more accurate. When the chrome bits get narrow I swage and side file, otherwise it wouldn't pay. Your 2 1/2 saw may need stand all bits to get started. Does your mandrel have babit bearings?