Blade height adjustment?

sawyerkirk · November 27, 2003, 08:42:42 AM

I've noticed my cants are not coming out square, square, but at an angle (for lack of a better description) when not turning, say the left side (outbound side) is at 5" where should the other side be? I know it is not supposed to be perfectly level. when I saw a 10x10, one side will be 10" while the other is 10 and an 1/8" normally I only saw 1.5" lumber all the way down, and the last board comes out heavy on the right side. any thoughts? Kirk

Fla._Deadheader · November 27, 2003, 09:23:05 AM

QuoteI know it is not supposed to be perfectly level. Kirk

??? ??? ???
  Why would it not be level??? ??? That's whatcher strivin for ??? We have to re-level our bunks. We are knocking them down with these wet logs. First time to adjust since we started sawin the wet logs.
  If the cant is not dogged tight enough it may be "lifting" on the clamp side. Same if it is clamped too tight, it will "lift".
  Dull blades will pull harder and may "rock" the cant a little???

Kevin · November 27, 2003, 10:17:17 AM

The band must be even with the bed cross members on my lt-15 and if the dogs aren't square to the bed you will see this ...

D._Frederick · November 27, 2003, 10:17:46 AM

Sawyerkirk,
If your last board cut is not flat, your sawblade is not parallel to the log rests. Most mills, you can either adjust the log rests or adjust the sawhead. Then adjust squaring post so that they are 90 degrees vertical from the log rests. After that it is all luck or experience how square your timbers come out. I am having the same problem on squaring 8 X 8.

sawyerkirk · November 27, 2003, 12:57:08 PM

I believe (it's been along time) woodmizer told me that when you engage the blade, it causes the lead to raise on the non supported side. I may have dreamed that though. I checked the height on the bed rails, and they are all the same height from the bladebut about 1/8" different from side to side. I am going to try and level that up and see what happens. over the next few wweks I am gouing to be sawing a bunch of small logs and need that last board to be right. I was wrong ion my original message, the board comes out heavy on the left side. Thanks, Kirk

Steve_M · November 27, 2003, 07:55:27 PM

Sounds like you need to get the manual out and go through the alignment procedures. I think your blade should be higher off the bed on one side than the other. I would guess you will find the problem in the dogs not being square to the bed rails.

With proper adjustments you should get perfectly square cants and lumber---unless you have crazy things going on with your logs.

Steve

ronwood · November 27, 2003, 08:47:26 PM

sawyerkirk,

On my LT40 I open the guide arm to 1/2 inch from fully open and position the sawhead head over a bed rail. The measurement of the blade to the bed rail (next to the outer blade guide) should be 1/16 in higher at the height of the blade next to the inner blade guide. When the engines revs up and the blade enters the log the head will drop slightly.

The woodmizer manual details the alignments that may help you. I have found with my mill being hydralic that if I clamp the log to tight the side support will be pushed out of alignment. Hope this helps. I wouldn't hesitate to call Woodmizer support if you have problems.

VA-Sawyer · November 27, 2003, 09:06:14 PM

Pulled out my WoodMizer manuals :P ( I have one for my '88 mill and one for the current production LT40HD). Woodmizer says that the outside ( unsupported side ) of the head will pull down slightly as the blade enters a wide log or cant.
If you follow the complete Alignment Procedures, early on, they have you level the head to the frame.( no blade guides ) Then later, they adjust the rails level with the blade. The last step in the '88 manual is to tilt the outside of the head up about 1/16". (They do it in an earlier step in the current manual.)
I suspect you may have leaning dogs and a head tilt problem. :-/ They are both easy to check.
If you find either one out of wack, then I would suggest doing the complete alignment in the order given by your manual.
P.S. If you have an outside mill, I suggest a liberal appication of anti-seize on all adjustable nuts and bolts so they stay adjustable. ;D
Rick

Fla._Deadheader · November 28, 2003, 05:23:54 AM

Hmmmmmmmmm. Never heard that one about the head tilting. Gotta check that out :

;D

sawyerkirk · November 28, 2003, 06:08:00 AM

Started shortly after 3 this morn, leveled everything levelable to as exact as I could get it. then started on the head adjustment, finally I got the blade to 1/8 difference on each side, sawed a cant and it came out 99% square which is FINE with me !! Thanks for all the help!! oh yeah, and a can of WD40 later!! I really like using vegetable oil as blade lube, but it sure makes a mess after a couple hundered thousand board feet!!

Fla._Deadheader · November 28, 2003, 06:17:56 AM

Sounds like ya got it fixed. 8) Which side is higher off the bunks, idle side or drive side??? What breed of wood ya sawin???

ronwood · November 28, 2003, 06:25:58 AM

Fla._Deadheader,

The idle side will be higher. From past post you built a mill like the design of the Woodmizer. Do you keep the blade parallel to the bunks on your mill?

Fla._Deadheader · November 28, 2003, 07:14:04 AM

We try to keep the blade as close to parallel as possible and ALWAYS watch the log stops, when we clamp. We used 2" square, solid steel for the stops. They are 22" high and we can see them move, flex, if we clamp too hard.
Our cants don't seem to be out of square by very much??? Right now, the 16 foot length is 1/8th inch out from end to end.
Being as how we need to adjust the bunks, I have some new info to be aware of, due to this thread. ;D ;D

Neil_B · November 29, 2003, 05:22:22 AM

Not trying to start a battle of the mills or anything ;), but that is one, probably the only, advantage of a 4 poster. If the mills level, all I have to do is pull over a bunk and tweak a head lift chain and the blade is square to the rest of the mill. A few less steps than the cantilever I would think ;D
Also no movement of the head when the engine is gunned.

Fla._Deadheader · November 29, 2003, 05:41:43 AM

As far as WM, you are probably correct. When we built, we used trailer tires and wheels, that measure 24" dia. We do NOT stop the blade from spinning between cuts. Only time I stop the blade, is when I am using the loader to get a log up on the bunks. I hafta reach under the blade, so to speak, and it is easier to converse with my son about where to stop rolling the log and how much to shim the log for level. I don't believe the start-stop blade thing is a good idea, after every cut. May be needed with the smaller wheels on WM's.
I finally can get a rhythm when sawing, and by the time the blade gets through the cut, and I bump up for clearance, the head gets started back and the next cut is planned, the head is in place for the next cut AND spinning. Works for me ;)

solidwoods · November 29, 2003, 07:22:05 AM

JIM

Fla._Deadheader · November 29, 2003, 10:09:36 AM

????????????????????

solidwoods · November 30, 2003, 05:34:33 AM

Daaaang Fl D what happened to my text above?
Your gator been snacking on text?
I got to get a larger keyboard.

I didn't know your mill doesn't have a Q Star Onboard auto wheel disengagement deceleration braking system now with Anti-skid technology.

If you can put in blade disengaguement and blade braking you will get way more life out of the blades. And prob. better over-all performance, since when you use the blade (spin it) it will be newer durring it's use-life as compaired to a short life by spinning with out use.
I'd bet you would get at least 2 times the life out of a blade.
(yea I hear ya,,"that's all I need,, One more thing to create)

Any luck $$$ on the slabs for table tops sanding/smoothing idea. I had suggested a stroke sander (not a pun,,,real machine,,ultra simple).
JIM

Fla._Deadheader · November 30, 2003, 06:17:20 AM

I wuz wonderin about that message also.???

Yer "spot on" about a blade trackin, wheel brakin, mis alignment checkin, multi function, doo-dickey, thing-a-ma-jig. I'll just buy an extra blade, occasionally. Besides, when I get you sharpenin my blades, I will get MUCH more blade life. I think I wuz butcherin my old blades, actually gettin too coarse a grind in the gullet. :

:

??? ??? Haven't shipped the blades yet, cash is in short supply and BIG demand. :D :D :D

Still have the Sander Drum sittin right where I set it a couple months ago. Been sellin the slab tops un-sanded. What about the cracks??? THAT, my good man or madam, is "CHARACTER". THAT'S whatcher payin for.

OOOOOOOOooooooooooooooooooooooohhhhhhh ;D ;D :D