air drying wood - suggestions

[rebocardo]

I tried using keyword searches here, but, came up with nothing usable.

I am cutting down a Water Oak Monday and instead of turning its 72"h x 36"w trunk into firewood, I want to save the wood for SOMETHING. I am thinking 36" rounds for tables or slabs.

Q1: What is the best way to air dry the wood.

Q2: I figure this section of trunk probably weighs about 4,000 pounds. Is this about right?

Q3: If I split the trunk into quarters, so I can get the wood into my truck bed, and air dry them, will they be good for anything later (say three months)?
  
I plan on getting end checker stuff eventually, but, at $50 a bucket from Bailey's I simply can not afford it. At least not for this small amount of stuff.

Eventually I want to build a kiln and get a mill, but, right now I have a tree to take down and I want to save the wood for a minimum of money without turning it into cord wood.

One thing I have noticed about the limbs I have taken off so far, the rings indicate the branches are 33 years old and the wood is a nice light red color on the inside. I assume it will have a nice red tint later too.

[Frank_Pender]

If you purchase Anchor Seal it is not anywhere near that kind of money.   Keep a good air space under the rounds, at least a couple inches and use a sticker that is as narrow as possible; like 3 pieces 1 1/2"  x 1 1/2" . I would suggst that they be kept outdoors to let them dry slowly.  If you begin to push it they will surely crack or check more drastically.

[Larry]

Frank,
Just got a 5-gallon bucket of AnchorSeal last month and it was something like $50.  First time users can call up and get some for free.  They used to send out a 2-1/2 gallon bucket free but the last guy I referred said he only got a gallon.

[fencerowphil (Phil L.)]

Hey Rebo

I have seen some wood species which had been cut into "rounds" which were dried successfully, but never any of the oaks.   Water oak is not one of the most cooperative ones, either. There is a technique, however, which may make it possible. :P

Using a thin kerf saw (hand saw), cut a slit from the outer edge to the center.  This will form a tension release gap.  When the round has dried, the slit will open into a pie-slice shaped opening.   You cut a section from a round cut from the log in the position right next to this round and custom fit that into the tension relief gap to fill it.  On a wood like Water Oak, you may want to do two slits, perhaps 120 degrees apart.

If you are good, you may even be able to make some "round-to-its". ;)

P.S.  As we have discussed before,  don't try to dry Oak in big chunks - not thicker than 2" or so.   If you dry the quarters long at all, you will have checks and cracks, especially on the outer circumference (bark side) of each quarter.  In the winter you could get away with completely wrapping each quarter in poly, then saw them later, but they must not be allowed to dry.  If you must do without end seal, you can always sticker a board pile, then staple poly or thick corrugated cardboard on the ends of the lumber pile.   It will last long enough to prevent checking during the early weeks of drying time - the time which creates the most serious checking.  
Phil L.

[fencerowphil (Phil L.)]

OOps. :

6' Water Oak at 36" diameter should weigh about 2600lbs.
Phil L.

[rebocardo]

Thanks for the replies!

My plan now is to skip quarters because of the checking and spilting, cut the trunk into 3 pieces (about 900 pounds each ) to remove it from the site and then cut it into 2 inch wide rounds at my house. Then do the slice thing with a cross cut hand saw or a skill saw. I do have some spare pressure treated ballisters and such for spacers.