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welding cast iron

Started by LeeB, January 14, 2005, 10:18:11 PM

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LeeB

Need some advice from some of you weldng experts. i need to make a new drive shaft for my hydraulic pump on my tractor(front mount for my fel). Can't seem to find on factory built. I managed to scrounge up a sline and gear but nee to weld it to my old shaft and coupler. The coupler is cast and the spline gear is steel. How do I go about welding them so it will stay together? LeeB
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

etat

Ouch. If I understand you correctly  you are talking about having to  to weld  a cast iron coupler onto a steel shaft.   Cast iron to steel is not a good combination.  Cast iron is notorious for breaking at the weld. I would imagine that the vibration and stress between the motor and the pump would compound this problem.  Would it be feasable to drill a hole through the shaft and coupler and pin them together with a hardened bolt and nut?
Old Age and Treachery will outperform Youth and Inexperence. The thing is, getting older is starting to be painful.

Fla._Deadheader


  Charles is correct, so far. Need more info. ::) ;D
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

woodhick

 Can you give more details.  What type of pump, number of splines.  I know of a place where you can get steel couplings for different spline pumps but I don't know if the rules allow me to post this info.  E-mail me direct and I will let you know or if one of the administrators say's it's ok I'll post here. :P :P
Woodmizer LT40 Super 42hp Kubota, and more heavy iron woodworking equipment than I have room for.

Bro. Noble

Use nickel rod,  pre-heat everything,  weld as cool as possible(low amperage,  short beads,  weld a little in one place and then skip to another),  after welding a short bead,  peen the weld and the area around it to relieve stress,  when finished,  insulate the whole thing and let it cool very slowly.
milking and logging and sawing and milking

Tom

I'm no welder, so this is a suggestion to look into not one to just do.   Fellows that are joining dissimilar metals around here braze them.  I've seen brass all over sawmills and even large broken parts of old planers, trim saws and stuff like that.  I took a broken piece from my sawmill to a welding shop a few years ago expecting to get it welded on the spot but he wouldn't do it.  He said that brazing would be stronger and I'd have to come back after lunch to get it.  I think he wanted the time to cool the joint properly ( or wanted to go eat lunch :D )    Anyway, the joint has held. :)

Greenskeeper

Lee,all good segestions.I would per heat as hot as you can get it, and braze myslef.

LeeB

sounds like this is outa my league :D guess I'll find a machine shop to make me a new shaft. LeeB
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

etat

I was hoping that would be an option. I believe it takes a lot of torque to turn a hydraulic pump.  The least amount of misalignment or vibration would be a bad thing.  While I do agree with the information about preheating to both weld, or braze, I just can't see it holding up.

The hydraulic pump that connects to the front of my tractor utilizes a bolt on coupling and rubber bushings to allow some leway for the vibration between the two.
Old Age and Treachery will outperform Youth and Inexperence. The thing is, getting older is starting to be painful.

Frank_Pender

The rubber bushing along with a jackshaft coupler should do the trick?
Frank Pender

Al_Smith

A little piece of cast iron,is not normaly a problem to weld,because it won't usualy crack due to irregular heat transfer.You should have,however,a flex type coupling of some sort installed .A "moreflex"type,is a good option.As far as welding,pure nickle is the best choice.If you can find a steel coupler,it would be better than cast iron.On a little piece of iron,you don't need any pre heat,but peen the weld,as this stress releaves it,after each pass.

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