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Portable drill press?

Started by thechknhwk, September 09, 2014, 09:36:11 PM

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thechknhwk

Anyone know of a portable drill press stand that I can attach a drill to like the one linked below?  I already bought this one and broke it.  I don't want to spend a mint, but would like something more robust.  It's for drilling through hardwood timbers.  Thanks for any advice.

http://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525404-Attachment-4-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410312838&sr=8-1&keywords=portable+drill+press

Brad_bb

I have and use that Wolfcraft, but I removed the springs.  I liked it better without them.  Not sure what you did to break it?  You're not using it for timberframing, are you?  Too light duty for that.  Only meant for a 3/8 or 1/2 drill and not boring bits- too much torque.
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thechknhwk

Yes, I was using it to drill my timbers.  It was doing ok, til I had to redrill a hole kinda close to another hole, and it wasn't clearing the chips and bound up.  It snapped the shaft going to the chuck on the wolfcraft.

Al_Smith

Old trick .Put a dowel rod in the previous hole .Gives it something to back up the chip flow ._ junk yard dawg 101 . ;D

thechknhwk


firecord

Search core drill  on ebay or Amazon. They make several you can attach a large drill to

thechknhwk

Just went through about 10 pages of amazon results with no luck.

firecord


thechknhwk

Thanks that looks viable, if tomorrow's attempt fails I might give it a go.

witterbound

Timberwolf tools sells a protool drill guide.  Pricy, but works great.  I used one for my frame.

Al_Smith

Not to be a kill joy but the problem with using a core drill is it has no chuck .It's made to take core bits and drilling concrete .

Likewise a number of magnetic base drills use "slugger bits' ,a combination of a hole saw and a normal twist drill .That won't work either .

They do make a mag drill with a normal Jacobs type chuck .That would work .You'd just need to clamp it in place .The magnet doesn't work so good on wood . :D

thechknhwk

Quote from: witterbound on September 10, 2014, 09:33:32 PM
Timberwolf tools sells a protool drill guide.  Pricy, but works great.  I used one for my frame.

Want to sell or rent?

PC-Urban-Sawyer

Quote from: Al_Smith on September 10, 2014, 10:27:12 PM
... The magnet doesn't work so good on wood . :D

Al,

Maybe if they was using ironwood???

:D :D :D :D :D

Herb

Hilltop366

I used the head off my drill press and made a frame to mount it on the beam. Used a saw tooth bit so I could overlap the holes if needed. I used it for hogging out a mortise.

The downfall is the travel of the drill press was not enough for some holes so I would have to lower the bit in the chuck to finish the deeper ones. I'm going to the shop soon and will try to get a picture.

Al_Smith

As an idea perhaps I have a small Walker-Turner table top colume drill press made the thirtys .The base can be rotated and most likley work in an application such as this .

My father had a table mounted drill press adaptor you clamped a 1/2" drill in which would have probably worked better.That thing had a lot of travel and was heavy duty .

Many ideas on this just depends on what a person can find .

Al_Smith

Now I've only seen one of these in my lifetime .Years ago as a teenager I spent most of my summer traveling around country working on a sheep dipping rig .

Once near Lancaster Pa we chanced upon a group of Amish framing out a barn for raising .They were using a "boring machine" to rough out the motises .Of course since they were Amish it was "armstrong " powered .You could probabley Google it .

firecord

The core drill I used had a an adjustable 1/2 chuck if I remember it had a Milwaukee drill attached.

firecord

I called the owner he told me that he bought it at a pawn shop not working and replaced the motor with a 1/2 inch hammer drill he called it his poor man drill press 

Brian_Weekley

e aho laula

Dave Shepard

That high speed on the Boss really speeds things up.  8)
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Hilltop366

Quote from: Hilltop366 on September 11, 2014, 10:05:41 AM
I used the head off my drill press and made a frame to mount it on the beam. Used a saw tooth bit so I could overlap the holes if needed. I used it for hogging out a mortise.

The downfall is the travel of the drill press was not enough for some holes so I would have to lower the bit in the chuck to finish the deeper ones. I'm going to the shop soon and will try to get a picture.

I set it on a board to show how it sits on a beam, I found that it was heavy enough with the drill press on it that I did not have to use the holder that goes under the beam unless I was trying to over lap the holes a lot or drilling next to a knot. The chuck on the drill press goes to the left and is past the cross piece so I can drill right to the end of a beam if needed.


 

Al_Smith

Those old hand crank boring machines are nothing but arm strong work .They certainly can still get-er-done though .Those are exactly what I saw some 50 years ago in Pa.FWIW there are places that sell them if anybody wanted to go that route .

Ha not being much into that manual stuff if conditions allowed it I'd be tempted to use a plunge router with a templete guide of some sort .I have nothing against the Amish,hard workers and good at that type stuff .I admire them I'm just not one of them . ;)

thechknhwk

thanks for all the suggestions.  I'm stopping at a machine shop up town tomorrow to see what we can come up with.   I'll post a picture if it's anything good, haha.

RavensWood

I just finished my first frame and used a drill guide that I made out of full extension drawer slides and a 1/2 inch drill. It worked very well and cost about $15 (without the drill). I was only drilling pine but it was accurate and could go through a 10" beam at exactly 90 degrees with almost no wander. I will take a photo and post it later if I have time (this Monday is crane day for the trusses so things are a little hectic right now).

thechknhwk

I had a fixture made that has a 6" sleeve mounted to a plate to guide an 18" bit through the timber, and it seems to work well on a single plane, but when I tried to make my holes in 4 joining timbers to bring them together it was not happening...  I'm using plates for the joints.

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