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Framing Doors against Posts (Pre-Hung or Slab Doors)

Started by jb9, June 21, 2017, 08:20:26 AM

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jb9

Hello,

I have done a fairly exhaustive search on framing doors within a timber frame and I still have questions.  In the realm of door framing, it seems that one can either select a "pre-hung door" or a "slab door."  The pre-hung doors are of course favored as modern and can be installed quickly.  The slab door requires more skill and attention to detail.  My question is related to timber frames.  I am going to have several of my interior partition (non load-bearing) walls "break" on a bent and am curious to know how one might approach a door frame against a timber.  Are any of the following options possible?

-Hinge Jamb mounted on the timber
-Hinge Jamb mounted on Jack Stud mounted on the timber
-Strike Jamb mounted on the timber
-Strike Jamb mounted on Jack Stud mounted on the timber
-Strike plate on the timber (it will definitely be plumb but of course will shrink over time)

I am asking these questions because I am working with a constrained door space and want to understand what a master carpenter might advise.  I am also considering a sliding door so that is a possibility.

Here is a picture of what I have drawn:



 


I would be curious to hear how other folks have approached this problem.

Thanks in advance.

Brian_Weekley

If it was me, even if I bought a slab door, I would make my own jambs and mount the door to the jambs (hinges and strike plate).  I don't think I'd try to flat nail either side of a jamb directly to a post.  I always use shims on both sides of the jamb when I install a door.  Large posts are going to shrink and check much more than studs and I'm not sure the best way to account for that.  I'd be interested to hear how big of a problem that might cause and how others account for that.
e aho laula

Ljohnsaw

My vote: -Hinge Jamb mounted on Jack Stud mounted on the timber

I'm assuming there will be a wall coming toward the viewer off that post. 

You want the hinge in the corner so you have easier access out the door.  Then, you know the beam will be shrinking.  When it becomes an issue (door won't latch), you pull off the trim piece covering the jack and full studs.  Back off the screws (use screws, not nails) holding the jack to the full stud, insert some shims and tighten back up.  Replace the trim pieces (or make new, wider ones if needed).
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Brad_bb

What ljohnsaw said! You want to be able to re-shim the door jamb if needed.

Another important thing to keep in mind is your brace locations for interior walls.  If you're building a stud wall within a bent, you don't want to end up covering up your braces.  You spent all that money or time on them, you want to see them.  So offset them to one side or the other so that they will end up being visible in one room or the other. I don't like to put them totally flush on one side of the bent.  I keep 1/4 inch reveal-that is put them 1/4 inch off of one face for a good look when it's done.  You have to do the math by adding up the stud width, and drywall to make sure they won't get covered up.  If you want the brace visible on both sides, make wider braces- maybe even 7.5 inches on an 8 inch wide bent.  Something to think about.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

jb9

Thanks for these helpful recommendations Brad_bb and ljohnsaw.  I think that makes a lot of sense.  I will redraw and post what I think will work.

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