Woodmizer LT40 Questions

jpgreen · August 29, 2006, 12:25:36 PM

Made my first cut into some wood yesterday with my LT40. Being that I basically don't know much on how the beast operates I had a few questions:

Is the forward and reverse drive supposed to "free wheel"?

Because mine does as I found that if the mill is not level, (end to end) the mast will roll with no gear or motor braking whatsoever. So if I was tilted a little in either direction it was either hard to feed, or wanted to roll back accordingly. If it's level, the power feed and return works fine.

Could this be warn motors? Thought that chain drive would lock her in.

Are the blade wheel belts supposed to fit tight?

Mines got slop with new belts. Blade seems to be tracking nicely though.

I was attempting to mill a 6" diameter short log as just for a test, and I can see where the log clamp (1995 model) needs some help. I'm gonna make a quick release mount for a steel gripperdog on that clamp, and then I will be able to hold a real small log in place.

Did make a few cuts, and the looked pretty good with an old blade. Then the hydraulics quit and I quit after a long day with the beast. Gotta see what's up this morning.

I think the sliding of the mill head with the slightest of gravity bothered me more than anything, cause weez in the mountains and flat ground can take some work to find sometimes.

I'd appreciate any thoughts.

Tom · August 29, 2006, 12:58:59 PM

The V belts on the bandwheels fit "sloppily", normally. Give them no mind. Check the grooves, on occassion for sawdust packed in the wheels. You will generally hear this.

The head should roll effortlessly in either direction. It makes it easier on the motors to not have to overcome drag on the track. You will be happiest, and so will your mill, if it is set up in as level a position as you can get it. I have run mine uphill and downhill and had plenty of motor to carry the mill. To set up with the mill unlevel will still work, it's just that you have to understand that the mill isn't in a proper configuration.

It won't take you too long to realize that a 6" log isn't really a sawlog. Most of us have a cutoff of about a 9" top and consider the smaller logs a counter-productive effort. That doesn't mean that you won't be cutting the smaller logs, but you will find that you will cull them as gain experience. Most of those small logs are nothing but immature wood anyway. It takes a tree, usually, 3 to 8 years to begin producing mature wood. That's not the age of the tree, but the distance from the pith. The pith is the track that was layed down by the vertical growth bud as it reached for the sky. The first few growth rings on either side are considered immature wood and will move, be brittle, and cause lots of problems in some species. When quarter sawing, these first rings, along with the pith, are usually removed.

jpgreen · August 29, 2006, 01:12:02 PM

Thanks Tom.. 8)

I think there may be some wear issues with my motors, cause as it is now, I can't mill on an incline.

Battery is kinda low, and that is prolly part of the problem also.

beenthere · August 29, 2006, 01:13:34 PM

jp
You have to 'set' the mill up one way or the other, and level sounds like the best of the two.

jpgreen · August 29, 2006, 01:17:03 PM

I bought some box tubing to make leg extensions, to get her level on an incline, so I better get to weldin' those up... :D

Tom · August 29, 2006, 03:31:42 PM

I used to carry dunnage in the truck to put under some legs and a shovel to dig a hole for the others. There are ways of leveling the mill without having to change its construction.

Check the brushes on your motor and fill up the battery.

If you feel uncomfortable doing it, an auto electric shop can check the brushes. Don't let them be to quick about replacing them though. The composition is different than most that they use. Get some new ones from Wood Mizer. They are good spare parts to have on hand whether you need them now or not. Also stock brushes for your up-down motor and hydraulic motor. (unless you can afford to be down for awhile)

jpgreen · August 29, 2006, 04:02:22 PM

Thanks for the tips Tom.

I've got rebuild kits for all the motors. I thought that maybe I would be able to work the machine for awhile without having to start on that stuff, but noooooo never happen with me.. :

;D

Could you and Beenthere fly out and help me get my WM sharpener and setter set up?

My brain is taxed, and I'm tired of trying to figure everything out lately.. ;D :D

Tom · August 29, 2006, 04:12:41 PM

Work on it in real time? You don't want that. :D

There is a joke about a monkey and football that I would remind you of.

If you haven't tried the setting and sharpening yet, you have an experience ahead of you. Make sure that you have Woodmizer's owner manual. It is invaluable.

jpgreen · August 29, 2006, 10:03:37 PM

Champagne wishes and caviar dreams Tom. I'll send you a first class ticket.. :D

I got her to mill a 4x4 out of one of them skinny logs. Pics on my other thread:

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=17276.100

Lots of more stuff to do. I just gotta keep pluggin'.. 8) 8) 8)

sparks · August 30, 2006, 08:27:55 AM

If I'm reading correctly the mill is a 1995? There is no braking on the power feed motor. If you are not level it will continue to roll after you put the drum switch in neutral. If it is slightly off level it will drift a bit. There is nothing wrong with the motor. The only mills that have braking are the super mills. We use solenoids for motor control and they create the braking effect. Thanks

jpgreen · August 30, 2006, 08:34:50 AM

Thanks Sparks.

It is a 1995.

ONe thing... I seems my feed is rather weak. The return goes like gangbusters, but I had the feed cranked wide open cutting a 5" log, and I could see it really bog down on a large log.

What would cause this?

tcsmpsi · August 30, 2006, 09:38:18 AM

Didn't you mention it was an old blade? Not sure about the speed of your hydrualic feed rigs, but on this 1hp (human power) feed I have, you can certainly tell when the blade begins to dull.

It was just a matter of pure stubborness and a massive thunderstorm rolling quickly in that I got the last 5 2X10s cut Sunday with that last blade.

jpgreen · August 30, 2006, 09:45:03 AM

Good point.. :P

LeeB · August 30, 2006, 02:22:35 PM

use some old not too good blades when you start your sharpener training. I toasted several before I started get the hang of it. :D LeeB

jpgreen · August 30, 2006, 03:51:06 PM

That's why I've got an old blade on my mill... :D

pineywoods · August 30, 2006, 09:34:02 PM

re: slow feed check the contacts on the drum switch. I had the same problem on my 95 LT40. found the contacts for forward motion were barely touching. These contacts carry a good bit of current. They get burned when the operator uses the feed switch as a throttle. Another possible is the potentiometer that adjusts forward or feed speed is worn. Try lifting up gently on the control knob while the carriage is moving forward. If it speeds up, the wiper arm is worn and loose. Any good electronics type can fix it.

logwalker · August 30, 2006, 10:07:36 PM

I go down one size on the v-belts and run them tight. Just seems better to me and it does work great.
I think your forward progress is faulty. If it goes backward like gangbusters it should go almost the same in forward. Try to level and check it without a log. It should go both ways about the same speed if set on full.
Are you aware that there is a clamp attachment that came with the mill? I didn't get one with mine and I just substituted a 1/4" angle iron about 5" long. I slips in the space under the flap clamp and you can get a couple sizes to cover those 4" logs. Again it works well. LW

bseago · August 30, 2006, 10:38:30 PM

On a 1995 mill you will have no breaking with the motors in 1996 there is a little and in 2000 the mill stops on a dime.

jpgreen · August 31, 2006, 12:34:38 AM

Thanks guys. All good points.

It definitely is WAY slower in the feed motion position with no log and the mill level. I knoew something had to be wrong. I've got a new pot for that feed and I'll replace it and it's probaly warn. The drum switches are brand new, but I'll check the contacts.

I have to turn that feed pot all the way up to get movement right at the very last of the turn.

These are the things you don't know about when never running an LT40 before. I may look into the drive system on the new LT40's down the line, cause I will need braking, but for now, the old KawaMizer has got to go to work.

I'm setting up my setter and sharpener tomorrow, and will be figuring that stuff out.

sparks · August 31, 2006, 08:16:45 AM

I would start by testing the variable feed switch. I have attached the test procedure. This is a WORD document. Thanks

jpgreen · August 31, 2006, 10:20:11 AM

Quote from: logwalker on August 30, 2006, 10:07:36 PM
I go down one size on the v-belts and run them tight. Just seems better to me and it does work great.
I think your forward progress is faulty. If it goes backward like gangbusters it should go almost the same in forward. Try to level and check it without a log. It should go both ways about the same speed if set on full.
Are you aware that there is a clamp attachment that came with the mill? I didn't get one with mine and I just substituted a 1/4" angle iron about 5" long. I slips in the space under the flap clamp and you can get a couple sizes to cover those 4" logs. Again it works well. LW

Didn't know that Joe..

Thanks for the instructions Sparks.. :P

Minnesota_boy · September 01, 2006, 09:44:42 AM

Check all the cam follower bearings on the head too. I've had them jam up and slide while going forward and roll free in reverse. Remove the guards on the bearings on top and watch them to see that they roll free on the forward feed.

The same has happened with sawdust buildup on the track wiper too. Clean and lubricate the felt in the wiper.