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Machinebuilder, beenthere, hedgerow, 47sawdust, Joe Hillmann, JD Guy, repmma, Andries, Crusarius, CCCLLC, longtime lurker, sprucebunny, TroyC, JJ
Machinebuilder, beenthere, hedgerow, 47sawdust, Joe Hillmann, JD Guy, repmma, Andries, Crusarius, CCCLLC, longtime lurker, sprucebunny, TroyC, JJ
Recent posts
#1
General Board / Re: What are Osage good size (...
Last post by beenthere - Today at 04:39:12 PMPlease elaborate a bit about your question. 
Truck load? Quality? ??
Truck load? Quality? ??
#2
The Outdoor Board / Re: BIRDS
Last post by Old saw fixer - Today at 04:26:05 PMI miss hearing the Bob White quail and the whippoorwills.... been a few years since they've been around.
#3
Sawmills and Milling / Power up down mechanism best o...
Last post by Bcwill250 - Today at 04:08:02 PMGood day folks.
I'm hoping some of you who have done this in various ways will chime in with what works best and what hasn't.
I have a range road 36 mill and have replaced my cable crank with a 12v winch which has made life much easier. However I'm finding there is still a lot of variability in the travel speeds and I spend a lot of time trying to make tiny movements to get the mill head where I want it.
I'm planning on upgrading the up down motion and am struggling with the best way to do it.
I'm considering large ballscrews on both sides and think this would eliminate the issue when on cables of having to go down past the cut and come back up to ensure the cables are tight.
Alternatively to that I was considering putting a shaft through the top of the millhead with a sprocket on each side that would raise and lower the head on chains instead of cable. This would smooth things out and eliminate cable wear. (Also making it easier to integrate computer artworks)
Accurate repeatability is important to me and a minimal amount of messing around to get to the right cut level.
Any input appreciated.
Cheers
I'm hoping some of you who have done this in various ways will chime in with what works best and what hasn't.
I have a range road 36 mill and have replaced my cable crank with a 12v winch which has made life much easier. However I'm finding there is still a lot of variability in the travel speeds and I spend a lot of time trying to make tiny movements to get the mill head where I want it.
I'm planning on upgrading the up down motion and am struggling with the best way to do it.
I'm considering large ballscrews on both sides and think this would eliminate the issue when on cables of having to go down past the cut and come back up to ensure the cables are tight.
Alternatively to that I was considering putting a shaft through the top of the millhead with a sprocket on each side that would raise and lower the head on chains instead of cable. This would smooth things out and eliminate cable wear. (Also making it easier to integrate computer artworks)
Accurate repeatability is important to me and a minimal amount of messing around to get to the right cut level.
Any input appreciated.
Cheers
#4
Drying and Processing / Re: Air Drying vs Kiln Drying
Last post by taylorsmissbeehaven - Today at 03:57:47 PMMan this has been a great topic! Really fun to see how others are doing what they do. Now to get Mary to read all this so she understands how little my wants are 
Thanks you all for sharing!
Thanks you all for sharing! #5
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Did something dumb today.
Last post by SawyerTed - Today at 03:44:26 PM576 square feet. 
#6
Chainsaws / Re: MS170 Chain Spinning at I...
Last post by mitchstockdale - Today at 03:40:49 PM@Keepfixin , I think you are right about the air leak. I was in the parts store and the guy working the counter said they see 170's with leaks quite often. So its looking like a tear down.
Thanks everybody who commented, very helpful. I will report back what i find when i dig into it.
Thanks again
Thanks everybody who commented, very helpful. I will report back what i find when i dig into it.
Thanks again
#7
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Band blade drag sharpener
Last post by jpassardi - Today at 03:03:53 PMSame here: 7/39's, the leftover 10's I have I reground to 7's.
Have only ever used WM and no plans to try others.
Have only ever used WM and no plans to try others.
#8
General Woodworking / Re: Watcha Makin'?
Last post by aigheadish - Today at 02:14:58 PMFor my putter, I request some assistance from all you brilliant minds...
I just bought a kit with a bunch of threaded inserts, that I'd like to use, to attach the shaft of the putter to the putter head. I've never used these kinds of inserts, so I'm pressing my luck a bit (20 bucks worth!).
My initial thought was to bury an insert into the putter head, through the bottom where it will eventually be hidden under a brass plate. Next, I wanted to try to tap some threads onto the putter shaft, but I have a feeling my measurements didn't work out the way I expected. The putter shaft is .370" (presumably give or take and I can sand a bit of material off it). The insert is 3/8" or .375". I don't seem to have a tap that is appropriate in my HF tap kit. I may be able to get close and while I'm not terribly opposed to ruining the shaft in a failed attempt I figured maybe I should ask you guys before I try.
I also can't find any threaded rod that comes close enough, size-wise, to epoxy into the inside of the shaft, so that seems like it's out of the question too...
Maybe I'm missing something? Any good thoughts from you pros? I'm not opposed to scrapping the threaded insert idea, and I like the sturdiness of the set screw but I'd rather not see that from the outside of the club. Maybe I could bury that in the hole in the bottom of the putter too? I'm afraid that glue or epoxy may not be the right solution, though I imagine that's how they get them to stick on a lot of factory made putters.
I just bought a kit with a bunch of threaded inserts, that I'd like to use, to attach the shaft of the putter to the putter head. I've never used these kinds of inserts, so I'm pressing my luck a bit (20 bucks worth!).
My initial thought was to bury an insert into the putter head, through the bottom where it will eventually be hidden under a brass plate. Next, I wanted to try to tap some threads onto the putter shaft, but I have a feeling my measurements didn't work out the way I expected. The putter shaft is .370" (presumably give or take and I can sand a bit of material off it). The insert is 3/8" or .375". I don't seem to have a tap that is appropriate in my HF tap kit. I may be able to get close and while I'm not terribly opposed to ruining the shaft in a failed attempt I figured maybe I should ask you guys before I try.
I also can't find any threaded rod that comes close enough, size-wise, to epoxy into the inside of the shaft, so that seems like it's out of the question too...
Maybe I'm missing something? Any good thoughts from you pros? I'm not opposed to scrapping the threaded insert idea, and I like the sturdiness of the set screw but I'd rather not see that from the outside of the club. Maybe I could bury that in the hole in the bottom of the putter too? I'm afraid that glue or epoxy may not be the right solution, though I imagine that's how they get them to stick on a lot of factory made putters.
#9
Timber Framing/Log construction / Re: have question about timber...
Last post by platinumphoenix - Today at 01:57:23 PMOk. So I'll fill it concrete and stone to reduce concrete use. Can I just fill in the trench once the bottom is leveled out? It seems unnecessary to use a form for the underground portion. Is large stones vs small stone matter?
#10
The Outdoor Board / Re: BIRDS
Last post by aigheadish - Today at 01:51:29 PMWhen we RV'd last year we saw what I think was an Oriole in a campground near Niagara Falls, it was cool and I'd never seen one before. Too cool. I'll have to see if I can find a picture. What neat colors!
