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Winching Logs

Started by Rhodemont, February 27, 2018, 04:24:22 PM

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Rhodemont

I have a Norse 350 winch on my JD 4720 for pulling logs out of wet areas where I do not want to create ruts or get stuck.  I added a snatch block to strap to other trees allowing change of the path of travel rather than straight line to winch in order to get around rocks, roots, and stumps the log may get hung up on. Still it never fails that a log  and usually the last one of the day, gets hung up on something requiring me to manually maneuver it around the obstacle in order to get the winch going again.  What does everybody use to put on the lead end of the log to prevent it from getting jammed up against things.  I saw an add for a plastic sled looking thing at one time but it looked like it would last about one pull. Signed "frustrated and covered with mud!"
Woodmizer LT35HD    JD4720 with Norse350 winch
Stihl 362, 039, Echo CS-2511T,  CS-361P and now a CSA 300 C-O

Quebecnewf

Skidding cone . Google it 

Quebecnewf 

mike_belben

You can make em pretty easy out of a propane tank, well tank etc.  cut one end off, cut some slits and flare it out like a badminton birdie then hole in center.  
Praise The Lord

CX3

I was just gonna say make one. I would definitely put a good bushing in it to protect my cable.
John 3:16
You Better Believe It!

g_man

This isn't a very good picture but some times you can do this to pick your log up and move it over a tad. That's a choker on the tree hooked into a slider used as a pulley.  Just to get that butt out from behind the stump. That tree is going to be cut so choker damage isn't an issue. As a warning only do very short pulls this way if the cable is at a sharp angle or you could damage your cable.



After a while you will get very good at recognizing good winch paths but it takes going thru some frustrations first.

gg

CX3

That's a good idea with the choker. What if a guy tightened the cable fairly snug. And then used a come along in the same manner to bump the log out. That's only one trip back to the tractor in my eyes ??
John 3:16
You Better Believe It!

47sawdust

If I'm paying attention I will rig my snatch block to change direction,otherwise I just cuss.
Mick
1997 WM Lt30 1999 WM twin blade edger Kubota L3750 Tajfun winchGood Health Work is my hobby.

thecfarm

I don't have a snatch block.
I just hook onto another tree with my chocker. I have moved some good size logs doing this. Most times only a foot or two will get me out of the mess.
No easy way to do,if there is alot in the way. When I was cutting the bog off,no trees to hook to. Than I had to move the tractor.
Wait until you drag 100 feet of cable through the woods to hook onto a log.  Than you will realize how hard it is to walk a straight line in the woods.
I've never seen those cones in person. One member made one out of some thin steel.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

teakwood

cut all the sharp edges of the butt. make it round like a finger so the log does't get caught up on obstacles 
National Stihl Timbersports Champion Costa Rica 2018

Ed_K

 I move my pulley back to a tree past the butt to back it up some. Don't do this with a slider it'll break your cable in short order >:(.
Ed K

Rhodemont

The Skidding cone is the unit I have seen advertised.  Thought $150 is a lot when concerned it will not hold up, but I suppose plastics can be some tough forgiving material.  Main issue with the cone is it sized at 20 inch, most of my oak butt logs will not fit and guess what, they are the heavy ones most likely to get hung up.  Like the sound of making one.  A propane tank is kinda small diameter. I do have an old galvanized water tank sitting out near the barn that may be perfect.  It is old so built thick and may be heavy to lug around.  Going to take a look at it.  
Woodmizer LT35HD    JD4720 with Norse350 winch
Stihl 362, 039, Echo CS-2511T,  CS-361P and now a CSA 300 C-O

John Mc

I've never used a cone, but I know a lot of people have with good success (oth store bought and homemade).

If your snatch block is not the self-releasing variety, consider looking in to one of those. It can save you a trip back to from the tractor to unhook the block once you've nudged the log sideways. A self-releasing snatch block is also a handy too to have if your twitching path needs to have a dogleg in it, or if you want to pull logs out to your main trail and then line them up alongside the trail (pull into the trail via the S-R snatch block set up on the far side of the trail, when it releases, you continue pulling to your tractor parked several yards down the trail). They aren't cheap, but once you've worked with one when thinning a dense stand, you'll wonder how you got by without one

Other options:

A peavey to roll the log out from behind the stump.

Hook your cable over a nearby stump to get the sideways pull. The stump acts like a snatchblock. If you set the stump height right, maybe shape it a bit (taper it low on the side the log is approaching from), you can get the stump to act like a self-releasing snatch block - though it takes a bit of luck to get it to act that way reliably. I do this if I found a problem and I only have a log or two to get past the obstacle. If I have a lot of things to pull out by that path, I'll set up th eself-releasing snatch block.

EDIT: almost forgot my favorite option: have my son standing by a safe distance away with the peavey to roll the log to the side if I get hung up (release the tension on the winch first).
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Stephen Alford

Just a couple thoughts you may find help full.

 

If the hitch point (where the chain runs through the D link) is moved to the left , the tree will roll to the right.  When the hitch point is moved to the right the tree will roll to the left. This would require removing the chain and reversing it.  By placing a sticker on the ground prior to felling , then putting the chain on is easier and the tree will start better.

 

When making your back cut , take your time. If you slow down the back cut getting the tree to stay on the stump is do able especially if you are laying it into the canopy. If I am hammering wedges I keep my free hand on the tree. You will feel movement long before you ever see it. Filing your saw for the type of wood you are cutting makes a difference as well.    :)    Good luck..stay safe.

logon

thecfarm

Stephen.I do the rolling hitch on any good size tree and when I limb the tree out,I shove the limbs under the tree to keep the tree off the ground. Put the saw into the dirt on mine land,you won't hit much dirt,but there will be a rock there.  :(
I have some blown down pine that I have been working on. The rolling hitch helps to break them free from the snow.
Mine stumps are low. And I do mean low. Hard on the chain,but would rather be hard on the chain than hard on my tractor to go over them.  My Father may not be here,but I don't need him to ask me,who taught you to cut wood? My brother cut down some trees for firewood. WOW and I do mean WOW. I almost thought my Father was going to cut the stumps again. They did look bad. My Father told me,I don't want someone to think that I cut stumps like that. And he meant it too.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

teakwood

i totally agree with you father, i hate high stumps!
National Stihl Timbersports Champion Costa Rica 2018

mike_belben

Gotta keep your stumps away from those magic mushrooms.
Praise The Lord

Rhodemont

Darn, the old water tank is only 18 inch diameter and therefore too small unless I try to flare it like a birdie as suggested by Quebecnewf.  I thought for sure it was 2 feet or more.  My snatch block is not self release, it was hard to justify the high cost at the time but when I am stuck it seems cheap.  Going to try some of the good felling and rigging techniques suggested in the thread.  Two issues I still foresee are thinking ahead that far to get the roll or the pivot to avoid the rock or stump and not even knowing that darn root is hiding in the forest mat until the log hits it. 
Woodmizer LT35HD    JD4720 with Norse350 winch
Stihl 362, 039, Echo CS-2511T,  CS-361P and now a CSA 300 C-O

mike_belben

Actually, i patented the propane tank birdie.  $1 royalty charge do not pass go, skip a turn.   ;)


 you can nudge a pretty heavy press, mill or lathe with a 7ft riggers bar.  And theyre not even log shaped.   I have reshuffled some pretty hefty, wedged in oaks on my trailer with mine

Real easy to mount a ATV rifle holster on the roof of the skidder or tractor to hold the bar too.  
Praise The Lord

Skipper11A

I just watched a Youtube video where a guy made a skidding cone out of an old wheel barrow.  .  If you have access to an old pickup bed liner, you might cut the front corner of the bed liner out, call it a skidding triangle.  I'm going to try both of those ideas and see how they work.

mike_belben

A bed liner is a pretty good idea. That would give you 4 of em and theyd nest pretty well.  A C clamp vise grip or two could hold em to the roof.  
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John Mc

Old VW beetle hoods used to be a popular skidding sled. I think there was an old pickup truck hood that was used as well, but I can't remember the model (it would likely be considered an antique now anyway).

If you are handy with metal fabrication (or know someone who is), the attached article includes a sidebar on making your own self-releasing snatch block. (I posted this here several years ago, with permission of the author.) I have not tried it, but was once in communication with someone who did and said it worked fairly well. The main article includes some basic winching tips.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Pat Del Monte

How do you get the log out of one of those cones and get the choker off the log. I made one out of a 30 gallon heavyweight plastic barrel but it was so much work to try to unhook it I don't use it anymore 

Rhodemont

I made a a nose sled from a plastic drum and had the same problem.  So I cut a section out to allow acces to take the choker off and the first try the cone crumpled .  I found an old steel rock sled, cut the back lip off.  Worked pretty good banging through rocky areas but plowed soft/mud.  Still do not have this figured out.
Woodmizer LT35HD    JD4720 with Norse350 winch
Stihl 362, 039, Echo CS-2511T,  CS-361P and now a CSA 300 C-O

mike_belben

If you need a skiddin cone your machine is too small, you aint getting the butts up high enough, or both.   An arch will outperform a cone. 
Praise The Lord

John Mc

Quote from: mike_belben on June 28, 2018, 04:45:51 PM
If you need a skiddin cone your machine is too small...
Possibly, but a skidding cone is a whole lot less expensive than a new, larger tractor.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

PA_Walnut

Great topic. I'm aiming to use my RTV for some winch/skidding action. Just got a 9000# winch for it and a snatch block.

I haven't seen anyone talk about a line dampner/blanket. An offload dude I know says to not even THINK about winching with a cable unless you have one...a snapped cable can take someone out.  :o
I own my own small piece of the world on an 8 acre plot on the side of a mountain with walnut, hickory, ash and spruce.
LT40HD Wide 35HP Diesel
Peterson Dedicated Wide Slabber
Kubota M62 Tractor/Backhoe
WoodMizer KD250 Kiln
Northland 800 Kiln

mike_belben

Youll notice just about everything with a forestry winch has a cable catcher screen.  Cut up a shopping cart and make you one.
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