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Help with Timberjack 450 dead wheel "3 wheel drive"

Started by Spartan, September 02, 2015, 11:51:32 PM

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coxy

Quote from: treeslayer2003 on September 04, 2015, 10:49:14 PM
Quote from: Spartan on September 04, 2015, 09:39:26 PM
yeah no kidding.  the axle housing would have to come off the machine...  no room.

I pulled the drain plug on the diff, no chunks, nice smooth turning and not much play.  I think its good to go.  Little drip from the pinion seal.

BTW I was quoted $1200 for a used diff if they had one in good condition, and $3250 for a rebuilt one from General Truck.  At least good to know that you can find some.  I wasn't having much luck.

does not look as heavy duty of a unit as the 518 though, but then again we lost 3 planetaries in 3 years on that machine, some were original and that's a 40 yr old machine.  the axle shafts themselves seem about the same size though.
i herd cat was hard on planetary s
I think it depends on the driver :) friend of mine had a 86 518 25 years never did a planetary

bushmechanic

Spartan just curious if your planetary ends are the ones with the brass pins or the ones with the steel pins and needle bearings?

kiko

Glad you found the problem.  For future reference,  you do not have to remove the entire axle housing to get the third member out.  Remove the axles, remove the drive shaft from pinion yolk, remove bolts that hold axle assembly to frame.  Lift rear of machine , axle will rotate so that pinion is facing straight down . Set machine back on axle housing. Put a floor jack under pinion yolk and remove third member bolt and slowly let down with the floor jack.  I made an adapter that bolted to the yolk and had a stud that went into the jack where the the round pad is.

Spartan

Quote from: kiko on September 05, 2015, 09:18:13 PM
Glad you found the problem.  For future reference,  you do not have to remove the entire axle housing to get the third member out.  Remove the axles, remove the drive shaft from pinion yolk, remove bolts that hold axle assembly to frame.  Lift rear of machine , axle will rotate so that pinion is facing straight down . Set machine back on axle housing. Put a floor jack under pinion yolk and remove third member bolt and slowly let down with the floor jack.  I made an adapter that bolted to the yolk and had a stud that went into the jack where the the round pad is.

LOL I guess I don't see how that's NOT removing the axle housing...
That does seem like an efficient way to do it though.  Thanks.

Brass pins btw with oil channels in them.

bushmechanic

Ahh yes I got a buddie with those planetary ends in a TJ 230D forwarder and come to think of it he has had that same problem twice. It broke right next to the bearing and the wheel could still turn no problem. We had the steel pin ones and never had an issue with those. Funney kiko we used to do the exact same thing to remove the front axle in the TJ only I didn't have the floor jack and I used a oil pail to catch the diff, good idea on the adapter plate though.

coxy

I have a milk crate with a 1x12 on the bottom for the jack and 2 holes cut in the sides big enough for my hand to put in 2 bolts    the 3rd member fits in it great

Spartan

So hopefully someone reads this that knows...

The planetary housing and backing plate holes for the pins that go through the planetary gears are egged a little and wallowed out...
so I am going to have them machined with a bushing inserted.

Are the planetary gear pins the same diameter on the ends as in the middle? 

They look like they are grooved for oil on the ends.
I have new pins on the way but I am headed to the machine shop in the morning to get them started on it.  the middle of my pins look fine and fit the gears fine so I was going to go off the measurements on those in the middle.

If anyone knows that would be a great help.   

coxy

pr 75s are bigger in the middle  the brass pin is about an inch on each end and maybe 2-21/2 in the center

Spartan

I know that these are not that model.

Axle is W5128

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