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Central boiler 1400 air channels

Started by overclocking, September 10, 2017, 12:41:52 PM

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overclocking

Starting to cut apart the air channels on the 1400 today and replace them with something that allows me to get in there and clean them. I'm not a proffesional fabricator so I am looking for something I can just bolt in and remove. Stay tuned as I will add pics and update on my progress. My hopes are to see if I can find an affordable work around to the 1400 problems since they don't make the replacement kits for them.

overclocking


Roger2561

I'll be following this for I too have the 1400.  I have a welder/fabricator coming by, hopefully sooner rather than later to cut out the old channel and make removable panels for mine.  We'll have to compare notes/pictures to see what you guys come up with.  Roger 
Roger

overclocking

Well after trying multiple cutting wheels and grinders it turns out a sawzall with a 3 inch blade at an angle and a bimetal blade is the best way to go.

I got the right channels exposed and they were 100% clogged.

I see why CB does not offer a kit to do this, its pretty risky as the water jacket is behind the channel and the channel is only about 1 inch deep in the center. Its basically a 2 inch pipe they ripped down the center and welded in there. I was under the impression the air channel would have more volume and was square shaped, but it is not very deep at all... which is why it clogs over time.

I have some more material to remove and clean up my cuts so it looks really rough at the moment, but just seeing how much was in there was shocking, there's no way it was ever coming out... it was like coal, and I bent a few sawzall blades. I'm going to grind it back to the welds on each channel. 

The corner was completely and I mean 100% blocked, so even if I got the channels cleaned there was no way to get the corner clean. I cut it back far enough to where I can now get in there with the coal rake and clean the corner out. 

  

  

  

 

Logging logginglogging

wow that looks like a lot of work. should work out well though.

Roger2561

Quote from: overclocking on September 11, 2017, 08:29:22 AM
Well after trying multiple cutting wheels and grinders it turns out a sawzall with a 3 inch blade at an angle and a bimetal blade is the best way to go.

I got the right channels exposed and they were 100% clogged.

I see why CB does not offer a kit to do this, its pretty risky as the water jacket is behind the channel and the channel is only about 1 inch deep in the center. Its basically a 2 inch pipe they ripped down the center and welded in there. I was under the impression the air channel would have more volume and was square shaped, but it is not very deep at all... which is why it clogs over time.

I have some more material to remove and clean up my cuts so it looks really rough at the moment, but just seeing how much was in there was shocking, there's no way it was ever coming out... it was like coal, and I bent a few sawzall blades. I'm going to grind it back to the welds on each channel. 

The corner was completely and I mean 100% blocked, so even if I got the channels cleaned there was no way to get the corner clean. I cut it back far enough to where I can now get in there with the coal rake and clean the corner out. 

  

  

  

 

The old air channel on mine looks a lot like yours but a couple of them are so warped that the end of it has turned out into fire box.   That reminds me, I have to call the welder to see if I can get a time frame of when he's stopping by to do the job.   Keep the pics coming, they are very helpful.  Roger 
Roger

Roger2561

One more thing; I have a diamond tipped cutoff wheel, do you think it'll do okay or is that what you used?  Roger
Roger

DeerMeadowFarm

I'm going through this as well myself with my E-Classic 2400. I've managed to cut a couple of sections out and they have been completely 100% clogged. I am using a chisel to chip all the solidified creosote out. It took me 4 cut-off wheels to complete what I did and some of the panels I cut were already warped and pulling away. I don't know if it's the metal or the creosote but I am eating up cut-off wheels faster than anything I've used them on before. It's a lousy, dirty job.



 



 

Panels so far:


 

Mask number 1:


 

Roger2561

Quote from: DeerMeadowFarm on September 11, 2017, 03:37:02 PM
I'm going through this as well myself with my E-Classic 2400. I've managed to cut a couple of sections out and they have been completely 100% clogged. I am using a chisel to chip all the solidified creosote out. It took me 4 cut-off wheels to complete what I did and some of the panels I cut were already warped and pulling away. I don't know if it's the metal or the creosote but I am eating up cut-off wheels faster than anything I've used them on before. It's a lousy, dirty job.



 



 

Panels so far:


 

Mask number 1:


 

I'm wondering if a pneumatic powered chisel would be too aggressive on that creosote?  Roger
Roger

DeerMeadowFarm


overclocking

Yea, those 2400 pics looks very similar to what I'm dealing with. There's really nothing an owner can do sadly. I thought I kept mine clean, thought I babied it, but it hits a point where you just can't get Anymore out then it clogs. 

I wouldn't recommend a cut off wheel. Not only do they kick up dust, they take forever. The bottom channel was removed in 5 minutes with the bi metal blade where as it took several hours to get a small section out of the top because I started with a cut off wheel. I basically am now using the cut off just to start my cuts.

As far as a air chisel I would be very carful not to crack a weld. The steel for the tank is much thinner than it should be and the factory welds aren't the best either. Once it's exposed it can be chipped out pretty easy, it's just getting to it that's the problem.

I will post more pictures tonight when I come in from cutting.

DeerMeadowFarm

How do you get any stroke out of the sawzall? Doesn't it hit either the packed in creosote and or the back wall of the air channel?

Roger2561

I was wondering about the same thing regarding the sawzal.  I wonder if a plasma cutter will do a better job removing the channel.  Have you tried burning out the creaosote?  I wonder if map gas would do any good?  Heat it up until it reaches a gooey consistency then try a putty knife to remove the stuff.  Only suggestions I can think of to try.  Roger
Roger

overclocking

Quote from: DeerMeadowFarm on September 11, 2017, 07:02:02 PM
How do you get any stroke out of the sawzall? Doesn't it hit either the packed in creosote and or the back wall of the air channel?

In all honesty its pretty tricky! You have to use 3 inch bi-metal blades and just the right angle so the blade doesn't hit the back wall. It kicks out of the groove a lot and if you don't have patients it can be very frustrating. Its so much faster though once you get it moving. It zips right through the sheet metal. you have to angle it toward the center, and yes sometimes the creosote will make it pop out, but the bi-metal blade eats most of it. I attempted it with a regular blade for a few minutes today and it was much slower. I have to go tomorrow and get some more, as I broke two. When they pop out they bend and you can only bend them back so many times before they fatigue. Once you find the correct angle its worth it.

plasma cutter would be another good option, although I was hesitant to try one since its so close to the water jacket and its so thin.

overclocking

Quote from: DeerMeadowFarm on September 11, 2017, 03:37:02 PM
I'm going through this as well myself with my E-Classic 2400. I've managed to cut a couple of sections out and they have been completely 100% clogged. I am using a chisel to chip all the solidified creosote out. It took me 4 cut-off wheels to complete what I did and some of the panels I cut were already warped and pulling away. I don't know if it's the metal or the creosote but I am eating up cut-off wheels faster than anything I've used them on before. It's a lousy, dirty job.


I was looking closer at your channels and they look to be C channel? They look much deeper than mine.

DeerMeadowFarm

Quote from: overclocking on September 10, 2017, 12:41:52 PM
Starting to cut apart the air channels on the 1400 today and replace them with something that allows me to get in there and clean them. I'm not a proffesional fabricator so I am looking for something I can just bolt in and remove. Stay tuned as I will add pics and update on my progress. My hopes are to see if I can find an affordable work around to the 1400 problems since they don't make the replacement kits for them.
Are you sure they don't make a kit? I went to my dealer last week and they had a kit on the shelf, for (I thought) a 1400 but not one for mine. He did download and print a copy of the instructions for the kit they make for the 2400. Between the kit he had on the shelf and the directions he printed I have a pretty good idea what I am going to do for mine. I could scan and e-mail them to you if that helps? I'd post them here but I don't know:
1. If that's within the site rules
2. How to post a scanned document.

Quote from: overclocking on September 11, 2017, 10:20:02 PM
I was looking closer at your channels and they look to be C channel? They look much deeper than mine.
Yes they are kind of like a C-channel but the opening of the "C" is wider than the back of the "C" if you get what I mean. Also, there is a rib in the middle that the CB directions tell you to cut out so it's really kind of an "E"-channel.

overclocking

Quote from: DeerMeadowFarm on September 12, 2017, 08:07:37 AM
Quote from: overclocking on September 10, 2017, 12:41:52 PM
Starting to cut apart the air channels on the 1400 today and replace them with something that allows me to get in there and clean them. I'm not a proffesional fabricator so I am looking for something I can just bolt in and remove. Stay tuned as I will add pics and update on my progress. My hopes are to see if I can find an affordable work around to the 1400 problems since they don't make the replacement kits for them.
Are you sure they don't make a kit? I went to my dealer last week and they had a kit on the shelf, for (I thought) a 1400 but not one for mine. He did download and print a copy of the instructions for the kit they make for the 2400. Between the kit he had on the shelf and the directions he printed I have a pretty good idea what I am going to do for mine. I could scan and e-mail them to you if that helps? I'd post them here but I don't know:
1. If that's within the site rules
2. How to post a scanned document.

Quote from: overclocking on September 11, 2017, 10:20:02 PM
I was looking closer at your channels and they look to be C channel? They look much deeper than mine.
Yes they are kind of like a C-channel but the opening of the "C" is wider than the back of the "C" if you get what I mean. Also, there is a rib in the middle that the CB directions tell you to cut out so it's really kind of an "E"-channel.

Yea, I'm pretty sure about the 1400 kit. I stopped at a few different CB dealers and emailed CB tech support and they said they don't offer a kit for the 1400.

Also, I stopped at my local tractor supply and picked up a few 1/16 dewalt cut off wheels for my electric angle grinder for testing purposes. As opposed to my air grinder the angle grinder cuts really fast and is actually quicker than the sawzall because all you have to do is cut the top, score the bottom a little and bend the plate down and it snaps right off. No need to cut the bottom doing it this way. Its almost done, I'm going to clean it up here and show a picture of the panels removed. Its been a learning curve of what works best, but if I can help someone in the future avoid some frustration its worth it.

You can email me the document if you would like? CB doesn't charge for the document, so sharing it shouldn't be a problem. I can PM you my email addy if you want.

DeerMeadowFarm

Electric angle grinder is what I have been using so far myself.

If you want the directions PM me your e-mail and I'll send them out, no problem.

overclocking

 

Cut the top
  
Bent it down
  
Removed the plate
  
Same thing for the bottom, just cut the top
  
Removed
 

Ok, I got the majority of the panels out. I am going to leave the back and weld the crack and see how well it survives this season, there's no build up back there yet. I just need to straighten up the upper cuts and grind them back to the welds. That's a job for another day, I'm hacking up enough black stuff for one day... Even after using a mask.

I'm picking up two stainless plates today for the sides and will drill an equal to factory amount of 1 inch air holes and bolt them over top of the exposed channels. I think 6 bolts each and some fire proof sealant should hold them down and prevent leaks.

E Yoder

Quote from: overclocking on September 11, 2017, 10:17:13 PM
Quote from: DeerMeadowFarm on September 11, 2017, 07:02:02 PM
How do you get any stroke out of the sawzall? Doesn't it hit either the packed in creosote and or the back wall of the air channel?

In all honesty its pretty tricky! You have to use 3 inch bi-metal blades and just the right angle so the blade doesn't hit the back wall. It kicks out of the groove a lot and if you don't have patients it can be very frustrating. Its so much faster though once you get it moving. It zips right through the sheet metal. you have to angle it toward the center, and yes sometimes the creosote will make it pop out, but the bi-metal blade eats most of it. I attempted it with a regular blade for a few minutes today and it was much slower. I have to go tomorrow and get some more, as I broke two. When they pop out they bend and you can only bend them back so many times before they fatigue. Once you find the correct angle its worth it.

plasma cutter would be another good option, although I was hesitant to try one since its so close to the water jacket and its so thin.

A plasma would zip through it like butter, but you'll have a lot of burning creosote. Can get exciting, it ignites fast with that much heat. Been there. :)
HeatMaster dealer in VA.
G7000

overclocking

Quote from: E Yoder on September 12, 2017, 05:08:42 PM
Quote from: overclocking on September 11, 2017, 10:17:13 PM
Quote from: DeerMeadowFarm on September 11, 2017, 07:02:02 PM
How do you get any stroke out of the sawzall? Doesn't it hit either the packed in creosote and or the back wall of the air channel?

In all honesty its pretty tricky! You have to use 3 inch bi-metal blades and just the right angle so the blade doesn't hit the back wall. It kicks out of the groove a lot and if you don't have patients it can be very frustrating. Its so much faster though once you get it moving. It zips right through the sheet metal. you have to angle it toward the center, and yes sometimes the creosote will make it pop out, but the bi-metal blade eats most of it. I attempted it with a regular blade for a few minutes today and it was much slower. I have to go tomorrow and get some more, as I broke two. When they pop out they bend and you can only bend them back so many times before they fatigue. Once you find the correct angle its worth it.

plasma cutter would be another good option, although I was hesitant to try one since its so close to the water jacket and its so thin.

A plasma would zip through it like butter, but you'll have a lot of burning creosote. Can get exciting, it ignites fast with that much heat. Been there. :)

Yea, it was starting to burn just using the cut off. I had to back out a few times!

bobby s

Great info guys. Going to try to get this done on my 2300 before the heating season begins.

overclocking

Ok, A little more progress.

Need opinions.

I am thinking I want to drill 6 1 inch holes on the top and 4 on the bottom. The reason for only 4 on the bottom is because its closer to the coal bed and I dont want it warping because theres too many holes. The material is stainless, about 1/4 inch thick.


Here are the plates after I cut them, they measure 31 inches long x 8 inches hieght
 


Once bolted they should sit nice and flush over the old channels
 



The red lines are where I will install the bolts, the other blue lines are where the holes will be drilled.
 

Any opinions on the hole quantity and position? 10 1 inch holes will give me 10 square inches of air flow. Where the channel in the back corner is there is approximately 4.5 inches per channel, so roughly 9 inches of air flow. That leaves a little play for build up before there's any restriction to the blower.

PC-Urban-Sawyer

OC, ten one inch diameter holes will give you just 7.9 square inches of hole area. The area of a one inch diameter hole is .79 square inches, not 1 square inch...

Herb

E Yoder

I would make sure the bolt holes are slightly bigger than the bolts so the plate can expand to the rear as it heats up, (otherwise it can bulge and crack). And that there is a gap at the rear to accept that expansion. I think you are saying there is.
HeatMaster dealer in VA.
G7000

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