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First Sawmill purchase

Started by rockchucker, December 08, 2007, 07:24:39 PM

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rockchucker

Hey, 

I am new to the forum so forgive me if I sound like a newbie.  I have searched around some but I would like your input.  I have access to quite a bit of cedar for free.  I am looking for something between 10 -15k to start a milling business.  Very small of course to start out.  The mill I am kind of gearing towards is the TK 1600.  I need it to be portable and I would like to keep it as large mouth as possible just to keep my options open later.
What are the other options right around the TK 1600? 
How many hours is too much for a used mill? 
Opinions on buying used.
What should I look for in a used mill?
Does anyone have any leads for me in the WA, OR area for used mills?
General opinions on any suggestions or tips.
I have the ability to replace parts on just about anything to do with engines and machines.

I know it is kind of a broad array of questions but any input would be helpful.  I am here to learn about milling.  I have been a General Contractor and Finish Carpenter for 14 years and I want to be on the other end of it all now.

Thanks for your time!
-Cory

Tom

If the 1600 is in your budget, it's a good mill and a good choice.  You don't hear a lot of chatter coming out of Timberking anymore.  I have wondered why, but never got a good answer.  That particular mill is one for someone who knows that the want to put a mill to work.  It will make you wish you had a bigger mill, but it will still do what you need done and will be better than you for several years.  (That's always been one of my measurements for upgrade.)

You need enough horses to drive a blade all day in 20 inch wood and enough umph to work the hydraulics in handling large logs.  The 1600 has both.

Furby

Welcome to the forum! 8)

There is a TK 1600 in the forum for sale section right now.
I know it isn't on your side of the country, but it would be a good reason to take a road trip.
Or you could get it shipped. ;)


rockchucker

I actually saw that one but it is a little too far and I am almost positive there is one closer.  Or I hope there is one closer I should say.

Thanks for the welcome!
-Cory

Haytrader

Have you checked Sawmill exchange?
Haytrader

rockchucker

Nope....Checking.  Thanks.

Yes.  Actually I looked on there and there is one for 14k but everything is more oriented towards the South and the East.  I am still trying to find one a little closer.
-Cory

Ironwood

Dont necessarily own my own, have had 3-4 mills here at times, right now is a Timber Harvester LT30. For the buck, my opinion would be a Norwood Lumbermate 2000. Lots of assembly when you get it but simple durable and affordable. .02 cent Oh yeah they are a sponsor too (only a bonus, there product is good). Just for the record I have had access to or use of Woodmizer LT15, and one WM top of the line Super Hydraulic fancy do dads, and Lumbermate 2000 and Hudson Oscar 52.

        ironwood
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

thecfarm

Welcome to the forum.Don't forget about moving the logs around.Do you have a tractor or something? Sounds like you might be doing alot of sawing for youself.Stay small for a while.Wait to see what you want and can do.I only saw for myself,so can not help you with the money making end.Good luck.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Kcwoodbutcher

My neighbor will be having a 1600 for sale soon. I'm sure it will be under 10K. Not real close but closer than some. Let me know if your interested.
My job is to do everything nobody else felt like doing today

Nate Surveyor

I have seen a TK 1220, and it was well made.

N
I know less than I used to.

rockchucker

Yeah only about 1900 miles and some change.  Haha  I will take all of the help I can get.

How many hours?
What year was it purchased?
Engine?
Maybe some good pics.
Does the guy take care of his equipment?

Any related info. 

Thanks.
-Cory

Kcwoodbutcher

Sent you a PM with the details
My job is to do everything nobody else felt like doing today

cantcutter

I have an 05 1600. Its a great mill and it will be forsale about this time next year and in your price range ;)
Contact timberking at their 800 number and ask if they know of any that are getting traded in or just forsale. They also finance so will have forclosures from time to time.
They are secure enough in their business now that if you need info you have to call them directly for it. They are always helpfull on the phone.

I bought mine with 12 hrs on it, second hand, and 8 k under new cost.

If you go newer you can get one with a factory turner on it. I turn by hand which is why I will be upgrading in about 12 months. In cedar turning by hand should not be an issue, I am sawing oak, cherry, and walnut and am working alone.

I can put about 300 bf an hour through the mill alone if the logs are in the 20 inch range.

As far as buying used goes you want as few hours on it as possable. also ask to run it, that is the best way to get a feel for the shape of the mill.

logwalker

Welcome Cory,

I am up north of you on San Juan Island and know what you are talking about with finding one out here. Seems odd but that is the way it is. I bought mine out of Vancouver BC. I got a 1994 woodmizer LT40 Hydraulic for about $10K. Just love the DanG thing. I would give Ken Burton a call in the Portland WM office and see what he has. You can access their used mills on the website. Can't go wrong with either brand.

If you get up to the islands, shoot me a pm and stop by. Joe
Let's all be careful out there tomorrow. Lt40hd, 22' Kenworth Flatbed rollback dump, MM45B Mitsubishi trackhoe, Clark5000lb Forklift, Kubota L2850 tractor

rockchucker

Thanks for all of the opinions and advice.  I have some leads on a couple 1600's and will be following through with them.  I would have thought that there would be more out here on the west coast.  I guess not.  I really have steered myself away from the cantilevered head design.  I am no engineer but it seems over time you would see inconsistencies.  I think the stability of the 4-post design is just more durable.  This of course is just my opinion with the research I have done recently.

Kcwoodbutcher .. Thanks for the lead I am calling dude to talk to him today.

logwalker...  If I get a chance to cruise out to the Islands I will let you know.  Thanks.
-Cory

Dan_Shade

band condition has the most impact on accurate lumber.  as long as the bearings are in good shape, most mills will cut accurate lumber.

the biggest thing, which is a pain in the butt, is to find somebody that has a mill very similar to what you're looking for and go spend a day with them sawing.  A mill is a good chunk of change to toss out there, you don't want to buy one that you won't be happy with.
Woodmizer LT40HDG25 / Stihl 066 alaskan
lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

Furby

Quote from: rockchucker on December 13, 2007, 08:17:21 PM
I am no engineer but it seems over time you would see inconsistencies. 

I can tell you for a fact that you are right, BUT.....
With a couple of adjustments, everything is fine.
You still have to make adjustments with a 4 poster to keep the same type of problems at bay though, so you lose nothing either way.
I don't belive there would be as many cantilevered head mills sold if they didn't cut properly. ;)

If that's what you are basing your mill purchase on, you need to do more research with an open mind and further your education before buying a mill because you are probly missing other important facts along the way.
Just my 2 cents. :)

rockchucker

Yes, I am still learning about mills and those are just my initial thoughts.  This is why I am here asking questions.  I am open to anything. 

I found a couple guys with TK 1600's out in my neck of the woods.  Both about an hour drive.  I will definitely check out how the mills run before I even think about purchasing.
-Cory

Rodney Sinclair

Quote from: Furby on December 14, 2007, 12:12:56 AM
Quote from: rockchucker on December 13, 2007, 08:17:21 PM
I am no engineer but it seems over time you would see inconsistencies. 

If that's what you are basing your mill purchase on, you need to do more research with an open mind and further your education before buying a mill because you are probly missing other important facts along the way.
Just my 2 cents. :)

I've got to say after reading this thread several times, it just don't look to me like Rockchucker is the one with the closed mind.
Rodney

rewimmer

Hello rockchucker,
Thought I would put my $.02's worth in here. I purchased a TimberKing B-20 mill after running manual mills for years. I guess you would say it is a fancy 1600 and I am not loading and turning 30 inch logs by hand any more. It is a good mill and I have read a lot about the 1600 and watched the CD on the 1600. Why don't you call TK and they will send you a CD on the 1600? Their service is excellent and they have really stood behind me and my mill. The mills really hold their resale value and you can recover most of your money if you decide to move up to a more automated mill. There are a lot of good mills out there but the B-20 was more agreeable with my budget at the time. I have heard a lot of people say "I wish I had purchased a larger mill" but have never heard one say "I wish I had purchased a smaller mill".

Buy the biggest mill you can afford.

Good luck and making sawdust at 65 years old is still fun as well as other important things. :D
Robert in Virginia


rockchucker

It is funny you should say that.  I just got the info from TK in the mail and was about to open it.  I literally have it in front of me as I type.  SO I am still researching and gathering info. 

I just had a guy here in Seattle area show me around his compound.  When I showed up there was not a speck of dust in the whole yard.  I thought I was at the wrong address.  Nope.  Taking a walk around I was able to see about 50k bf of cedar and such stacked.  Found this enormous chunk of birds eye maple about 4 inches thick had to be at least 3 by 6 he said was worth about 8 grand to the right person.  I was there because I got my hands on some free cedar.  What my buddy and I could load up by hand in my truck with leverage and some smarts, we took it to him for milling.  We had only 5   6'-8' timbers ranging from not worth mentioning to14".  Since I have the knowledge and tools for finish work I figured we could just have him saw them into 1" planks with the bark on.  The timbers were super clean so no rocks or debris.  They are stacked and stickered for the duration.  Eventually they will be used for a sauna or two.  There is still 7 more all 8'+ ranging from about 18" on the small end.  Obviously one tree.  This is what really got me going on the mill kick. 

Like I said before I have been on the other end of it for a few years.  So I saw the potential of customers who are very ECO friendly around this area.  They have a tree that they want to come down.  I can actually fell the tree, buck it, mill it and stack it on their property.  Come back in a year and build them a fence, shed or sauna or whatever they want.  It may sound a little weird but out here people will pay extra for the whole deal like that.  It gives them a warm fuzzy feeling inside I guess.

Way off topic but just rambling...

So I am grateful for the responses and information.  Keep them coming!  Forgive me if I do not have the lingo down and feel free to correct me at any time.  As I said I have been on the other end of it most of my life.  I don't usually start with the tree.   :)
-Cory

Haytrader

I know nothing about western cedar, which I assume you are talking about, but will it take a year to air dry?
I do have some knoledge about ERC, and you could go back in a month and work with it. I thought western cedar was lighter so assumed it was low in moisture content.
Haytrader

rockchucker

The stuff we had milled was 60% fresh off the mill or so the digital gauge read.  It had only been down maybe 2 weeks.  Yes western red cedar.  The sawyer said it would be workable by summer.  When I said "In a year I could come back and build with it"  I was just figuratively speaking.  I guess I should have said "When it is ready"
-Cory

Ianab

Well.. with cedar and a fence.. Nail it up off the mill  ;)

For a sauna.. couple of months air drying and it's good to go.  :)

It does depend on the wood species and climate, but cedar drys FAST and doesn't shrink much, so even if it's not fully dry you can still build with it.

Doesn't help with your sawmill choice, but it might help with future jobs  ;)

Cheers

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

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