Another new sawmill trailer build (HFE-21)

Verticaltrx · March 19, 2015, 07:58:02 PM

Thought I'd post a few pics of the new trailer I'm building for my Hud-son HFE-21 sawmill. I like the mill head, but the little angle iron tracks and dogs/clamps left a lot to be desired. This is my way to address these problems.

First I built a frame out of 2x5x11ga rectangular tubing. They came in 24' sticks which was just enough for a 19'6" bed (to cut 16'6") and have enough for the cross members. The pockets for the backstops are 2x2x1/4 and the receivers for the tongue and log turner mast are 2.5x2.5x1/4. Took lots of care welding it so as not to warp it, but it still did so I had to do a good bit of heating to the topside to take the bow back out.

Here's a pic of the frame on my welding table, it's upside down in the pic. Welding on the mounts for the six jacks:

Bought all the jacks at the local TSC and some more at the one the next town over. The 4.80-12 mounted trailer tires were also on sale, so I picked up a pair of them as well.

Finally got it sitting on the jacks, and mounted the track and saw head on it. The axle is from an old trailer which I narrowed down.

I've actually gotten a bit more done since the last photo (axle bolted in, tires on, backstops made, etc) but I'll have to take some more pics tomorrow. Overall I'm very pleased with how it's turning out. I've tried to take the best features from all the mill mfg's and make a really nice (albeit small) mill. Also I'd like to thank everyone on here for all the good info and pics of their builds/mills/mill features etc.

More to come...

justallan1 · March 19, 2015, 08:19:16 PM

Very nice job, Verticaltrx.
I think every build on here is great in the sense that I can gain something from them all.
Thanks for posting pics.

thecfarm · March 19, 2015, 08:53:52 PM

Now that's a frame.

21incher · March 19, 2015, 09:01:20 PM

Nice job. I built a HFE21 trailer a while back and to overcome warping I welded up the frame as square and flat as I could and then welded the tracks in place shimming where needed to keep them straight and inline just like you did. I also bolted the cross supports in place so they are removable if they get damaged, I got everything flat and inline within about 1/16" over the 14 ft and it cuts fine and doesn't twist when jacking. That wound-up being the toughest part of the build. I was surprised by how bowed the tracks that came with it were. I also added mounting holes to the back so I could bolt the original tracks on to add a additional 12 ft of cut length if needed. The only thing I have left to finish is a log turner which I am looking at using parts of a quick pump floor jack to operate. I think the HFE21 is a great little mill for the money. Looking forward to more pictures of your build.

Verticaltrx · March 19, 2015, 09:29:45 PM

Thanks for the replies. I've gained a lot of knowledge from everyone else and their builds, so maybe I can help inspire the next guy that comes along.

My main problem with warping was due to all the items that needed to be welded on the bottom of the rails. There was just too much heat on the underside of the rails for it to remain flat and after I got everything welded it had about an inch of a bow up in the middle. I could have used a torch to heat the top, or maybe a jack and a chain to straighten it, but instead I tried something really easy and it worked wonders. Basically, I just ran a weld bead on top of the rails in each location there was one under the rails, then ground them off when it was cool. This worked by applying the same amount of heat as had been applied to the other side, and brought it back straight.

My frame is so long that even with it completely flat there is still about 1/4" sag in the middle when it is only supported on the ends. This is fine though, as the center jacks make it easy to get it perfectly flat (which was very tough with the stock tracks.)

Things left to do:
log clamps
transport bracket to hold mill head
log ramps
log loader/turner arm (winch mount)
roller toe boards

Got a question for yall, what is the best place to attach a winch line to the mill frame when parabuckling (SP?)? I'll have a winch mounted on an arm like Norwood does for loading (and turning,) but I'm not sure of the best place to make an attachment point for the other end of the line?

fishfighter · March 19, 2015, 09:31:34 PM

Thanks for posting your build. One of my summer time things I have to get done. I have to many sticks in the fire right now to even try to start.

Jemclimber · March 20, 2015, 08:02:03 AM

The frame looks great and so does your clutter free shop. Are you planning on capping the ends of the rail?

Verticaltrx · March 20, 2015, 09:41:35 AM

Quote from: Jemclimber on March 20, 2015, 08:02:03 AM
The frame looks great and so does your clutter free shop. Are you planning on capping the ends of the rail?

Thanks, the shop is clutter free because I'm just now finishing building it lol

Just finished capping the ends, keeps the wasps out in the summer and salt out in the winter (although I avoid moving equipment in the snow/salt like the plague)

Verticaltrx · March 20, 2015, 01:38:25 PM

More progress and more pics:

Sitting on the wheels:

Backstops. They are 1.5x1.5x3/16 square tubing, angled 45* on top. I left a little tab sticking out on the backside of the cap so they wouldn't fall all the way through, and so you'd have something to grab to pull them up. I also made a set screw on the backside of the holders in case I need to adjust them to be square with the bed/blade:

I realized the standard handles on the jacks were going to be a problem. They hit the frame when you turned them and hung down when transporting. I made my version of woodmizers 'Fine Adjust Outriggers' by taking a 1/2" threaded coupler for all-thread and drilling it out to fit the stem on top of the jack. Drilled 1/2" dia about half way through the coupler, then drilled out the cross hole to 1/4". Also added another washer under the coupler to take up the slack. Fits and works great, I'll make a handle with a 11/16 socket to turn them, as well as a bit for a cordless drill:

The stock clamps would work fine with my new backstops so I'll just use them for now. Almost ready for sawing:

thecfarm · March 20, 2015, 06:07:48 PM

@Verticaltrx,the stops are my Thomas are built just like that. Put some inch marks on the stops so you won't have to wonder if they are too high. I have mine marked about a ½ lower than what they really are. So 4 inches is really 3½ and 6 inches is really 5½. Works out real good when I'm edging. That way I can get the most support from my stops.

bozzaa69 · March 20, 2015, 07:27:27 PM

For your backstops,drill a hole on the corner of the square tube and weld a nut. When you tighten them from the corner they push into the opposite corner and hold straight and tight.

thecfarm · March 20, 2015, 07:34:32 PM

@bozzaa69,like this?? ;)

21incher · March 20, 2015, 07:38:32 PM

Looking good. Does that tapered piece on top of the backstops clear your blade guides in the last couple of inches of cuts? Are you going to add the tabs on the track so you can cut the last board to 3/4" ? When I added mine I machined them and bolted them in place so I could cross drill them for a finish nail to help hold the last board flat on the mill if it is warped and they hold so good most of the time I don't even have to clamp the final cuts.

Verticaltrx · March 20, 2015, 07:53:39 PM

Got it finished and tested it out this evening....works 100x better than the stock setup on the ground. Having it at knee height makes turning cants easier, unloading lumber easier, seeing the sight gauge easier, etc etc. Also the new backstops are a huge improvement over the original ones, my cant came out perfectly square and edging was much easier and safer. I took a bunch of pics that I'll try to upload later this evening.

Quote from: thecfarm on March 20, 2015, 06:07:48 PM
@Verticaltrx,the stops are my Thomas are built just like that. Put some inch marks on the stops so you won't have to wonder if they are too high. I have mine marked about a ½ lower than what they really are. So 4 inches is really 3½ and 6 inches is really 5½. Works out real good when I'm edging. That way I can get the most support from my stops.

That is a good idea, I'll look into it when it's time to paint.

Quote from: bozzaa69 on March 20, 2015, 07:27:27 PM
For your backstops,drill a hole on the corner of the square tube and weld a nut. When you tighten them from the corner they push into the opposite corner and hold straight and tight.

So far the clamps are good and straight, if they get wobbly over time I might try this.

Quote from: 21incher on March 20, 2015, 07:38:32 PM

Looking good. Does that tapered piece on top of the backstops clear your blade guides in the last couple of inches of cuts? Are you going to add the tabs on the track so you can cut the last board to 3/4" ? When I added mine I machined them and bolted them in place so I could cross drill them for a finish nail to help hold the last board flat on the mill if it is warped and they hold so good most of the time I don't even have to clamp the final cuts.

Thanks. Yes, they drop all the way down below the level of the bunks. Since I'm still using the stock tracks (just bolted them down snug to my new frame) I still have all the little 3/4" tabs for clamping a cant to.

Verticaltrx · March 20, 2015, 09:55:01 PM

Pics of the trial run this evening:

Setup with the ramps and log turner/loader mast (I didn't use these today however):

Log on the deck, using the backstops on both sides to hold the log. This eliminates the need for the little triangle 'cheaters' this mill uses for over sized logs. Just put the log on and slide them up and it holds it snug:

Closeup, also they can be turned around for a little more offset:

Log turned for second cut, using the stock clamp with new backstops. (I could really use some toe-boards):

Much easier and safer way to hold flitches for edging (you can see how unstable the stock setup would be for this type of work):

My temporary transport lock lol actually this worked well, just need to make some kind of clamping mechanism:

Magicman · March 20, 2015, 10:08:59 PM

Looks good, and yes, you need to figure out some kind of toeboards.

Verticaltrx · March 20, 2015, 10:12:50 PM

Quote from: Magicman on March 20, 2015, 10:08:59 PM
Looks good, and yes, you need to figure out some kind of toeboards.

Thanks, I think I'm going to build some roller toe boards like Norwood uses on their LM29 and larger mills. Basically its just a pivoting roller actuated by a little 2-ton bottle jack. Looks simple and effective. For the meantime I normally just put blocks under one end, but that is time consuming.